IBMobile

I also use it as a paint remover and weed killer. We've got your friction modifiers right here.

First off, nice looking clean truck. I went through 3 Carter left pumps and read all the problems people were having with their electric lift pumps so I installed a mechanical Fuel Boss lift pump with the supplied 3/8 fuel lines and stock fuel tank pickup without a draw straw. I plumbed in a cheap Airtex pump that I've used to purge air from the system but is unused the rest of the time. The fuel pressure is 18-19 PSI going down the road with Rv275 injectors and an Edge EZ towing an 8K fifth wheel with a boat behind that.

Yes, first eye protection. Next apply heat to it with an acetylene torch and let it cool; this sometimes brakes the rust bond between the bolt and nut and takes the hardness out of the metal. Next center punch the broken bolt and, starting with a small drill bit, drill a hole through the bolt and increasing the bit size until either an easy out extractor can be used, or the hole is big enough to rethread the weldnut with a tap, or a stud MIG welded into the hole. If you use an easy out be carful not to break it off in the hole. They can be snapped off and are even harded to get out. If you don't have access to all the tools needed It might be cheaper to have some one else do it. @01cummins4ever same thoughts 2 minutes before me.

The grounds for the PCM are done that way also.

Now let there be more good news on Monday. May the doctor's mind be clear and have a steady hand. Let the surgery be successful and your body be free of cancer. Guide the nurses to gently and skillfully tend to your care. With thoughts and prayers toward a speedy and painless recovery.

All those new parts he put on shouldn't increase the price. The trans, steering box and diff rebuild just means either he didn't take care of it or abused it. The clutch and tires are a wear part like brakes. Radio is a $25 add on. Don't let him have you pay for what he wore out by saying "but I put all these new parts into it".

With no code you're going to have to do some diagnostics. This will help determine if it's the VP44 or not. https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/runningtests

I like to clean the engine bay wit a cool/cold engine. A cold engine keeps the cleaning agent from flashing off due to the heat and the steam that is produced when hosing a hot engine down can get into electronic connectors. Once the steam condenses in the connectors corrosion can occur. This will leaded to high resistance, inaccurate sensor readings, poor grounds and other electrical maladies. Cover the opening on the fender side and it should be OK. Simple Green, Grease Lightning or any good degreaser will work but be carful of some cleaners, like Purple Power, will etch aluminum. I put the cleaner, full strength, into a spray bottle and use an old paint brush to work the cleaner in to the really dirty areas. You can let it soak in for a few minuets but some of the cleaners evaporate rather quickly. Hose off with water hose and nozzle or a pressure washer. With a pressure washer be carful how close the wand is to the more delicate components like vacuum hose connections.

Yes. This is what we used when I worked at the dealer. You also could use old denim cloth.

Try this, get a piece of felt material from a fabric store, Walmart may have it, and some glue; remove the door panel, see where the rub marks are on either the door or the backside of the panel. You then glue the felt over the marks, let dry, reinstall the door panel and test.

To water proof a relay you can coat the bottom of the relay with either a silicone sealant or a two part plastic epoxy.

Note: I have a Fuel Boss lift pump and start the engine with 0 PSI to the VP44 every time. So if your lift pump is putting out 0 pressure but fuel flow past it is good then that should not be a factor.

Go here for steep by steep no start VP44 diagnostic tests. https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/runningtests

This is an interesting thread on the subject.

To late! One got to JAG1.

The mats are heavy, not very thick, as if they were led lined. The dense material is what absorbs and deadens the sound.

My son did the floor, inside the doors, and firewall of his car with this stuff. He said it made a difference but I couldn't tell; I didn't have my hearing aid on. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Dynamat-10455-18-quot-x-32-quot-x-0-067-quot-Thick-Self-Adhesive-Sound-Deadener-Dynamat-10007-Dyna-Roller-Professional-Heavy-Duty-2-quot-Wide-Rubber-/559940156?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=451&msclkid=d97b26839183109f6eae7a0a13ae7ad5&adid=22222222222164764947&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=e&wl1=o&wl2=c&wl3=74491987102905&wl4=pla-4578091555006157&wl5=&wl6=&wl7=& wl10=Walmart&wl12=559940156_10000000376&wl14=automotive sound deadening material&veh=sem

What is it doing wrong?

Identify what needs to be done. Maintenance, drivability problem, no run, etc.. Research how to do it. Ask question on forums, view You Tube. Do you have the tools and physical ability to per form the task. If you're comfortable doing the work after the this evaluation then go for it, otherwise ship it.

Power steering fluid for a 2002 or older Ram is Mopar MS5931 or equivalent. Do not use ATF+4. Some people say it's OK but the factory manual says otherwise.

This article may help explain how to wire the rely into the system.

I bought just the socket and made my own wire harness. I spliced into the existing harness for the trailer socket at the rear bumper. I soldered and sealed the connections for a permeant installation. It a bit of work on your back but it can be a neat clean install. The smaller plug next to the 5th wheel plug is for a video camera I have in the back window of the trailer.

I missed going to Woodstock with my friends because I had to work that weekend.

The plug and outlet in the tool box are grounded by the 3ed round pin but not the tool box itself there for the extra ground wire attached to the box. We have a winner!