IBMobile

In front of the State Capital Des Moines, Iowa

I have a switch to turn on the grid heaters or run the signal through some resistors to fool the ECM. I'm working on another simpler bypass that I hope to install on one or both of @JAG1's trucks. If it works OK then I'll do a write up on it around the end of May.

There is no under the hood label denoting emission controls like you find on gasoline engine models stating if it meets Federal or California standards. The basic rule for which light duty diesel vehicle to test is 'if it has an ECM/PCM in it then it needs to be tested'. When the inspection station tests the vehicle they interrogate the ECM/PCM through the OBII port. If the check engine light is on, a fault code is pending, a fault code is stored, or the monitors are not set the vehicle fails the test. In the past with just the Fuel Boss running and the electric fuel pump totally disconnected I have seen fault code P0230, Transfer Pump Circuit Out Of Range; this is why I put the relay in for the ECM to trigger and keep the fault code at bay. I just now tried to induce the P0230 code by removing the lift pump rely and starting the engine with my code reader plugged in to the OBII port. I found no code set at this time but have left the relay out and will drive it that way to see if code will reappear. It may take a while because this is the first time in 2 weeks that I've started the engine and it was over 4 week before that.

My system is set up with the electric pump but not used but with the ECM triggering the relay. The check engine light in this truck would come on if this was not done. I need the light to stay off due to Calif. SMOG testing. The relay option B was used, see below, and the 10 AMP fuse is remove to keep the fuel pump from running. When the electric fuel pump is needed to prime the system, the fuse is reinstalled.

@pepsi71ocean here it is.

I have just the opposite problem. Over the years the fuel pressure at idle has been decreasing. The pressure at idle was 17 psi and has now gone as low as 13 psi, when first started on a cool morning, and will settle at 14 psi. The fuel pressure will jump to 18-19 psi when off idle. This Fuel Boss system, when new, also dropped fuel pressure due to black pieces of hose rubber getting stuck in the pressure relief valve.

With that many miles on the turbo It might be a good idea to inspect it for play at every oil change from now on.

One of the mods I've done is to add a filter in the power steering return line. Hopefully that will increase the longevity of both the power steering pump and the hydroboost unit. Second mod was to wire the truck for video feed from the 5th wheel. This view out the back window of the 5th wheel allows the drive to monitor the trailer being towed behind the 5th wheel, also when changing lanes if the trailers are clear, and aids in viewing behind clearance when backing up. Installing the mystery switch with brake release was a big help in towing.

In a gas powered truck the PCM controls the fuel pump relay, injectors, and ignition along with a host of other things. You'll need to do some testing to find the problem. Start with the basics. Is there power to the fuel pump relay at pin #30 and #86, is the relay being grounded when the starter is engaged. Is there power to the injectors and do they pulse when the starter is engaged. You will need a node for this test. Is there spark at the sparkplugs.

ASD Relay Controlled Lift Pump If the ECM is no longer powering the electric lift pump and you’re using a manual switch wired directly to the fuel pump relay for control there is a danger of the fuel pump feeding a fire in the event of an accident even if the engine stalls. The automatic shutdown relay is an alternative that will turn the fuel lift pump off if the engine stops and still be able to prime the VP44 if needed. The automatic shutdown relay (ASD) in the power distribution center (PDC) is energized by the powertrain control module (PCM) by grounding pin 85 of the relay when the engine is started. This closes the contacts and battery voltage is supplied to terminal 87 of the relay. The terminal 87 of the ASD relay supplies power to the PCM through a 14 gauge dark green/orange (DG/OR) wire. When the engine stalls the PCM opens the grounding circuit within 3 seconds and the voltage is removed from terminal 87. The lift pump relay can be controlled by connecting a wire between terminal 87 of the ASD relay, or splicing into the DG/OR wire) and terminal 86 of the lift pump relay. The power draw of the lift pump relay solenoid is less than 1 amp so an 18 gauge wire can be used. There is an option to run the lift pump without the engine on, a bypass switch and second relay can be installed. The second relay is used to isolate the PCM and not power up systems unless the key is in the on position. Also if the bypass switch was wired directly to pin #86 of the fuel pump relay the amp draw from the PCM would blow the 3 amp fuse. If installed improperly the lift pump could stay on in the event of an accident. Installer/user assumes responsibility for proper installation and use. Written by: J. Daniel Martin, Martin’s Mobile Maintenance AKA: IBMOBILE 3/24/19 View full Cummins article

It's going to be either 3:55 or a 4:10. Look in your glove box and you might still be able to read the label that has the gear ratio info on it. If not call the dealer service or parts department and with the vin# they can give you the built info.

280 ft-lbs

Clean the top of the block so it's ready for the head gasket and head. Now spray a light coating of oil on the surface to keep it from rusting. Cut a piece of cardboard a little larger than the top of the block and lay it on the block then put a 2x4 or plywood on top of that to hold it in place. When you are ready to put the head on remove the cardboard and clean the surface with brake clean but leave the cylinder walls wet with oil. The corporate garage

I also use it as a paint remover and weed killer. We've got your friction modifiers right here.

First off, nice looking clean truck. I went through 3 Carter left pumps and read all the problems people were having with their electric lift pumps so I installed a mechanical Fuel Boss lift pump with the supplied 3/8 fuel lines and stock fuel tank pickup without a draw straw. I plumbed in a cheap Airtex pump that I've used to purge air from the system but is unused the rest of the time. The fuel pressure is 18-19 PSI going down the road with Rv275 injectors and an Edge EZ towing an 8K fifth wheel with a boat behind that.

Yes, first eye protection. Next apply heat to it with an acetylene torch and let it cool; this sometimes brakes the rust bond between the bolt and nut and takes the hardness out of the metal. Next center punch the broken bolt and, starting with a small drill bit, drill a hole through the bolt and increasing the bit size until either an easy out extractor can be used, or the hole is big enough to rethread the weldnut with a tap, or a stud MIG welded into the hole. If you use an easy out be carful not to break it off in the hole. They can be snapped off and are even harded to get out. If you don't have access to all the tools needed It might be cheaper to have some one else do it. @01cummins4ever same thoughts 2 minutes before me.

The grounds for the PCM are done that way also.

Now let there be more good news on Monday. May the doctor's mind be clear and have a steady hand. Let the surgery be successful and your body be free of cancer. Guide the nurses to gently and skillfully tend to your care. With thoughts and prayers toward a speedy and painless recovery.

All those new parts he put on shouldn't increase the price. The trans, steering box and diff rebuild just means either he didn't take care of it or abused it. The clutch and tires are a wear part like brakes. Radio is a $25 add on. Don't let him have you pay for what he wore out by saying "but I put all these new parts into it".

With no code you're going to have to do some diagnostics. This will help determine if it's the VP44 or not. https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/runningtests

I like to clean the engine bay wit a cool/cold engine. A cold engine keeps the cleaning agent from flashing off due to the heat and the steam that is produced when hosing a hot engine down can get into electronic connectors. Once the steam condenses in the connectors corrosion can occur. This will leaded to high resistance, inaccurate sensor readings, poor grounds and other electrical maladies. Cover the opening on the fender side and it should be OK. Simple Green, Grease Lightning or any good degreaser will work but be carful of some cleaners, like Purple Power, will etch aluminum. I put the cleaner, full strength, into a spray bottle and use an old paint brush to work the cleaner in to the really dirty areas. You can let it soak in for a few minuets but some of the cleaners evaporate rather quickly. Hose off with water hose and nozzle or a pressure washer. With a pressure washer be carful how close the wand is to the more delicate components like vacuum hose connections.

Yes. This is what we used when I worked at the dealer. You also could use old denim cloth.

Try this, get a piece of felt material from a fabric store, Walmart may have it, and some glue; remove the door panel, see where the rub marks are on either the door or the backside of the panel. You then glue the felt over the marks, let dry, reinstall the door panel and test.