JAG1

two thumbs up what dripley and will440 are sayin. When I dropped my tank there was dirt all through the fuel and basket strainer screens. They were 1/3 rd blocked with stuff floatin around in the fuel. Had to replace the filters within a couple weeks of doing the big line kit, FP gauge, draw straw, and lift pump on the frame. Now pretty reliable even tho both my second gens got Raptor pumps.

I was trying to get a laugh out of you guys is all......I see your point about the mechanical pump wil440, I'm always wondering why I don't check my fuel pressure gauge more often with that electrical pump I have as I go many miles at times without looking. Sorry I interrupted the discussion electric vs mechanical.

I think Doubletrouble needs more advice in the direction of his budget right now and those up front belt spinners real good but, are expensive. Funny his Name is doubletrouble and here you guys arguing over a swing . He needs to upgrade a little at a time so for now I can recommend placing a bigger primary filter before the lift pump to stop damage from sediment. One draw back with using either the fuel Boss or the other brand is they can't have filters in front of them. I guess is okay but, I like a primary filter even if 30 micron.

Was it rebuilt by your rebuilder or was it an auto parts store item? Are you saying it was a missing slip ring? Sorry I have big thick skull and need elaboration for it to get thru.

Stickers on the pump are pretty well stuck on there, so how would you know if it will always be biofuel when regular diesel might be the only thing available for the next few tankers supplying that station for awhile?

Thanks Threadzy, I knew someone had to have done one recently. I found one inch spacers sold are all the durable rubber, poly something or other, not like the steel ones that are two inch spacers. I guess thats okay to use. Hellwig has a set for 119 bucks.

Don't some of those come with battery back up? Seems like they would charge up a battery for when the power goes out.

So.... how did the fifth wheel do in all your rain? It's good time to check for leaks when it gets stormy. I had several when my camper was new. I'm in rain country also and had the mindset that if there are no leaks I better look harder and it paid off.

All I can say is it's best to keep it original, keeping in good shape. My 2002 truck is different than my 2001. The 2001 dipstick has a factory riveted extension to the end extending it about 6 or 7 inches, so I'm assuming the tubes are different. My advice is just get the one at Cummins and be careful next time.

Thank you wil440, dental is expensive here and have to pay out of pocket 2,000 bucks for my worse tooth which needs a root canal and color matched crown. So it sounds like you have other benefits that help and about rounds everything out.

What is nhs? Yeah as far as what electrical contractors are charging, that's not what they make, I think they pay their guys around 35-55 an hour. Contractor has a lot of overhead and insurance which is expensive.

Complaint like that they must be gettin' pretty foul he he I know I can do it just have to order the 1 inch spacers. OK just watched a video on it and it seems that it would be a whole lot easier if I used spring compressors. It would allow not having to disconnect the brake lines and track bar. Help me with advice if you've ever done it. I need to know about keeping the shocks compressed as well. Thank you anyone?

Thanks 'Big D', I will just do it right. I got a price today to have it done and they want 6 hundred bucks. I know I can do it.... remove wheels and wire shocks in shortened position, pull end links, lower front axle and raise truck frame, pull shock towers, pull 2 inch spacers and replace with 1 inch spacers. Is that right?

Yep do it over that's the best. I was hoping they have spring squeezers I can put on there or use Dieselfuture for a hood ornament.

Is there a simple way to reduce the two inch lift in the front of my truck to one inch lift? Or should I do it again with one inch spacers? Thanks for any thoughts. I have the adjustable trac bar and saved the factory end links so it's easy that way anyhow.

Someone is making money, that's expensive. Are wages even with expenses then? Like electrical contractors charge around 110- 120 bucks an hour here. What's it out your way?

My thinking on the batteries acting as filters that helps remove AC ripple is something I read a few times on the internet, so is it not true then?

I like 5th wheels better than any other type RV and I own a truck camper . Does it really cost you guys double what we pay for fuel out here?

I hope all goes well. It's been awhile, is that because you needed to improve your driveway to better accommodate the 5th wheel? BTW, I saw what looked like a storm headed your way on a satelite photo. I was wondering since it looked very strong.

And helps reduce AC ripple going thru the batteries instead of going to the the PDC.

That was a nice set of circumstances that came up all stemming from your VP giving up. Nice perfect camp with river, good fishing, peaches, shade and Mopar1973Man just up the road, short walk to town for supplies and they allowed repairs. That was cool being it was on your way to the Canadian Rockies it could have got real complicated if it broke down anywhere else. To tell you the truth after we left the Eclipse camp I was aware that yours was due to go out based on averages with original VP lasting only so long. I was so relieved when yours gave up in most perfect situation. What a camp.... you must have enjoyed that.

Me too, I didn't see the deer the first time.

Yes right! so sumpens crossed up somewhere.

Good advice........ Just do the mechanics part like Dripley said and it will come simple to you.