JAG1

Not at all too long. Its interesting. Your persistence will reveal something eventually. I remember a while back a lot of discussion on burning up the ECM from a bound up worn Lift pump still on factory wiring powered directly from the ECM. You have pics earlier in this thread showing some burned components inside the ECM. Can you speak with the rebuilder and ask if they are any clue as to which circuits you should investigate to maybe find the problem? I wonder if the rebuilders would know a key wire to the ECM harness that would help protect the ECM by way of a protection fuse. Like the 5 amp fuse we install to the blue alternator wire. It just is something beyond me why we have to rely on such expensive circuitry that buns so often as is the case when we have to send them in to the rebuilders

Merry Christmas to all you good folks on here and to the all new guys too, Merry Christmas. Onliest thing is..... we still can't figure out why Dripley sheds all his feathers every winter, Have you guys figured that one yet?

just speculation here, but what if the FASS has a jammed up gear or motor creating an overload that back fed thru the ECM by way of the non protection relay. This my suspicion so is there a way to tell if the FASS is bound up and running hot? Amp meter? This brings me to my next question... is the grid heater relays a diode protected relay? I'm wondering about these two important possibilities.

Okay that's even more reliable because you can unscrew the whole stem all the way out and change the stem washers at the bottom there is a small screw holding that shutoff stem washer. O ring on top is just the stem cap or retainer washer that you can tighten up. The cap washers stops the leak only when water running and the bottom stem washer should shut it off completely. You know this stuff...... What am I saying? In an emergency I have been successful at making my own stem washer by slicing correct size rubber hose. However your situation is different leaking at the base of the spout.... you may find a premium washer at the hardware that will work wonders over the factory size.

How do I know if I'm getting the green coolant? When you look at the bottles they don't say 'green stuff' nor 'yellow stuff' nor 'orange stuff' and I want the green stuff. I hate when they change things around on old farts like me. It like they enjoy phasing out old models built like me. And the printing, so dam small you can't see to drive home after squinting your eyeballs out on the floor.

I was visiting my sister in Nevada once, except she was being a big you know what (feel free to imagine anything you like here). So I drove off to the ace hardware store to see If I could fix a leaking kitchen faucet in my RV that would not shut off. Now this thing was some off brand from mars and would not take fixing so I took out the cartridge and unbelievably there was the exact same cartridge hanging on the shelf in the store. It was the last one of its kind all full of dust and Ignored for years yet fit perfectly. I imagined it was so old it was probably better built than original. It worked nice, I was happy and when I got back my sister was human again. Someday they'll have a cartridge for woman too

Mopar1973Man, some of those faucets you can take apart (slide the cartridge out) and clean the sediment and O rings and they good again. Ace hardware has some of the major brands and even generic cartridges you can replace. They all plastic inside with rubber O rings. At times I pull the cartridge and run my fingers down in the housing to clean down inside and all the parts of mineral build up. Sometimes just replacing them is best, but I always try servicing them first and then take the cartridge with me for a match up at ACE hardware.

Fuses that service each circuit should be fully connected thru the fuse as long as the fuse (fuse designed to disconnect only in the event of a short) is not burnt. Sounds also like a bad connection/ corrosion possible. However, I may not be understanding your findings/ explanation correctly either. What I'm trying to say is the fuse should read the same voltage either side of the fuse that is designated for that circuit. Provided it is good clean connection surfaces, it should also be close to the same ohms on both sides with the circuit shut off for OHM testing. Also check the important ground down low on the fender in front of the drivers battery. It is for the PDC. That ground was done poorly with a poor location subject to rust and corrosion. If you cannot see it, as in my case on my 01 and 02 trucks, move that wire harness just enough and you will find it there.

Exactly why I buy no new truck. Hang on to it long enough and its made into a rock solid truck. Time and ownership helps you build it solid.

This is a very cool thread. Thank you to everyone as I have to do mine soon. I repaired the drivers seat heater last weekend and since it is often simply a burned wire at the heating element connection, it was easy to replace 3 inches of wire and now works great. What the factory did was get the wire too close to a loop or turn in the heating element so the wire insulation cooked over time and shorted out. Even burned the foam to some degree around it. Adding 3 inches of wire gets it away from the element.

Me too..... It's a good one. How I know is my other truck had a dead spot start to show. I could feel it at slow speeds and could see it on the graph with the Snap On screen hooked up. So I bought another one for the 2001 and keep it in the shop for. Good price at $170.

Be sure to test the batteries individually not paralleled. About the heat you need..... Tractorman is right you need to pull the dash and get the HVAC clamshell plenum out. There are several things that cause inefficiency for the heat so pulling it won't be a waist. Your symptoms...... One way gives you lots of cfms but other way does not so when drawing air from outside you got leaves of debri in there. Could be the cowl up on where it gets in, but when on recirculate its fast cfms.

We will win alright, just look at the good folks we got around here..... All strong winners in my book. But MoparMan needs wood in.... I hope its at least covered because it works to split a couple rounds each day as needed Hey Dripley, how do you lite the woodstove and not burn those feathers?

And where can I sign up to join even though I'm a wood pecker

I think they have days they can have a fire in winter when it's windy that sort of thing. That Eucalyptus is some of the best firewood you can get. I think it's harder and denser than Oak. I was amazed how long it burns and how much it weights. It's real heavy. Like to see what it looks like when finished lumber. I bet it's nice stuff. We just got the last of our rounds split and stacked last weekend and our weather is turning much colder now.

X2 , hoping to hear back from logi777 breaker breaker

It would go with a full on alarm. Once my wife decided to go into the store I was already shopping in. She opened the door from the inside and that stupid alarm would not shut up. Of course, because I had the key FOB so was impossible for here to turn it off.

Aren't trucks, like us, supposed to take a leak every once in awhile? BTW, been in construction 42 years and never heard 'dig a clearance'. You mean 'cut out for a house', right? That's what we call it in Oregon anyway.

There is a wire that comes off the end of the door cylinder lock. You can get to it by removing the interior door panel carefully. My alarm was going off approx 1 out of every three times I'd open the door. I found that by zip tying the wire connector toward the front of the truck, sort of pulling on it to reposition it, it would behave normal without any problems. This has solved my problem for about a year now. It's weird I know, but it like the connection was loose and worn from the lock and switch always being used.

Got any pictures so we can learn what your doing? I hope a simple fix for you.

In a situation like yours Mike, you need to take care of yourself first or else you won't be able to for others. Learn the words, ''No, We have to schedule you in"........ Those are very famous words for a guy that needs to rest and not be hurting all the time. If you do not become a good manager of a Business it will not be worth keeping going.

Since this thread got started way back when, I experienced an extremely hot alternator from having a bad cell in an one battery. The poor thing was running full amps trying to fill a bottomless pit of a battery. I replaced batteries since they were old and suspect and the alternator at the same time. I had an original Bosch with only 30,000 miles on it from my other truck. Everything is fine now. Don'trust old batteries everyone and an alternator can develop an internal short and get hot that way too so that 5 amp fuse on the blue wire is important.

I think because of the taller tires and 3.54 gears you might only need to adjust the TV cable, but should only be affecting the lower gears at low speeds. Mine will go in and out of 1st and 2nd, drive you crazy, but only happens when I'm just floating engine speed (neither accelerating nor slowing). It goes away the rest of the time or if I just click into second gear manually on the shifter. If you have the trans hunting gears in the higher gears, in and out of 3rd and 4th then most likely too high of AC ripple thu the electrical system.

I understand that too, so the last couple years I learned to take it in stride, back away from unskilled pokies, relax and enjoy the ride. Not much else one can do except be thankful for owning a good truck and living out in the mountains.

So where do we go for a charger specific to equalizing batteries? I had a charger that used to do that with automatic timer, but it quit and is only a charger now. The other charger just sends pulses for 24 hours and only does a little bit of the work. I never buy sealed batteries always wet cell that can be maintained proper.