JAG1

Don't they glue down with a glue that allows an easy pull apart when needed later? I'm thinking Small spots of silicone would release off the plastic. My 01 has a cover and looks okay but the bezel is cracked.

We need to invite that AO cortez lady to come join up and become a member as she has all the answers.

Congrats on the new to you new truck. I don't know enough about it and may be illegal to advise you how to accomplish the deletes. It so wrong of our gov't to sacrifice mileage just so they can get more road tax. They are so numb nuts to tell us it's to stop smog when good mileage is curtailing smog better than all other variables. Rant over.

Weird too is the fact the test gauge shows different from the cab gauge. I think different brands will read different pressures as both my gauges are direct mechanical no isolators on either truck. The test gauge is a very reliable shop testing gauge that is oil filled and has a pressure release button and drain. one gauge is 4.5 lbs higher than it shows in the cab and is 'HI' brand and the other, Isspro shows one psi higher than actual. I have trusted Isspro brand for many years. Just tossing info here.

What a frustrating pile of effort and mess you went thru. All because someone put gasoline in the fuel system. Probably had plenty of garbage down in the tank after sitting so long before it was found in a barn. Did you remove the screens in the tank? Them things hold the garbage and reduce fuel supply. BTW, my fluctuating high and low fuel pressures were from a new style regulator on the new Air Dog 150. MoparMan suggested I turn pressure adjustment up and down while running. Wife watched the gauge and went up to 25 back down to 9 at idle many times. This caused both my erractic pressures to settle down on both my 2nd gens. I was so crazy getting after and trying everything since everyone/ me thought it was air. Are you using 2 cycle oil now?

Mike's way too sensortive about his truck..... Sorry...... delete that

Electrical is a funny animal....Travels at the speed of light yet takes forever to find its understanding. Causing big head pain eventually creeping to other parts of the body. Enough pain for a day, or several days with loads of coffee, even beer can suddenly trigger its understanding and you say to yourself....''Damn, where did that come from?''

Do you remember which brand sensor finally showed up as reliable?

Just for the heck of it check those fuses in the PDC.... Especially those with the window. It is very hard to see the burned link in those, but a magnifying glass and small flashlight helps. Really need to pull and test with OHM meter is how I found a bad one and got my ABS light to go out.

I'm glad you found it....Did the ABS light go out as well? Which plug if you don't mind my asking.

What is your fuel pressure doing when it happens?

I think those fibers are just dust picked up in the air.

Let me know when your rested.... I will start a thread on which batteries are best..........

If you use the factory box you need to make sure the rubber seal is fitting tight to both the lid and lower portion. I took a block plane and shaved my box lip so it squeezed down tighter, but you need to be careful which lip you shave because one acts like a stop when tightening. So you shave the stop shorter and gets it tighter, the other is just a lip so look carefully. You can also make the hinge tabs hold tighter by adding heavy gauge sheet metal folded over and onto each tab.

It looks like blue dust from disintegrating plastic binder on the filter. Like an inferior type of plastic breaking down. Anyway I cannot understand why your dust looks blue like plastic substance. Could be the way the light plays on the dust. My filters are made by Donaldson and the thing I noticed right away is that my filter media looks much tighter where yours looks like it it has lost some integrity and see fibers hanging off yours for some reason. I can see a grain or texture to yours where my Donaldson is more consistent or uniform. I know too that I'm paying about 2/3rds the price the auto parts store hammer you for and buy a years supply of all filters there. .... Air Flow Systems in Tukwila, about 11 miles from Seattle 206 431-0670. They are wholesale so you have to own a Business or just walk in and be polite , buy in quantity if you can. They take a check, Cash is best. They are good good people in there. An 85 dollar filter for my 1st gen was half that at Air Flow.

Wow, thank you for sharing this with everyone. I also use the factory box type filters, but have buying a different brand from a big rig supply house since a lot of the truckers that come in drive ram trucks also. If I can remember right I once saw a Made in some third world country on a Wix fuel filter so I quit buying them at that point. I will report back after having a look at mine.

When I don't have time for an overnight draining and a little overdue, I like to pour an extra quart of oil thru the engine with the drain plug out. Wasteful perhaps, but the cold oil running into the dirty warm oil, you can see pushes more dirt out. I do it every once in awhile.

Way I understand it the original VP had an aluminum timing piston wall. Bosch later realized they had a problem and incorporated a steel sleeve for the new rebuilt vps. Additionally, the Government restriction on the use of lead solder created a condition of electrical circuit board cracks and broken connections from heat cycles and vibration to the PCB board on top of the vp. New rebuilds are supposed to be better than original and there are a few cases when the original went a lot of miles. Now the upside is they will last a long time, on average, if good fuel pressure all the time, good filtering with a primary and a secondary. You need to eliminate all screens in the tank and make it so the debris can get changed out with a primary water separating filter before the lift pump can emulsify the water droplets and the secondary has little chance removing water. The VP is the easiest injection pump to replace and has the ability to return money in your pocket in fuel mileage differences..

I hear what you are saying Thanks for helping me to understand......... Your avatar keeps making me think your forum name is 'Super Mopar'. I like that avatar, but your idea of a tupperware roof would sell that brand of RV like hot cakes.

No wonder we are seeing a lot of old old hippies still around I'm going to have to start studying up on this stuff. Someone told me a long time ago that the system is set up to manipulate profits and the Gov't also doesn't want us to collect social security by living forever. My grampa went till 96 and always said stay away from doctors Mike.

3M 5200 isn't hard like concrete it stays flexible. I guess you meant that it is very durable I'm saying coat it because its easy to get it off in the future with the old membrane being left on there and the rv membranes are really cheesy boss. coatings are easy as pie to repair.

I drove mine 4 yrs with 0216 code using two stroke every tank, but its a gamble. You need good F/P with easy flow 1/2 inch lines, no banjo bolts so the lift pump stays cooler and the return fuel can empty remove the heat in the VP. Bigger lines insure keeping the return flow at maximum cooling when accelerating and the VP wants to get hot.

Dripley you see the same problem that I noticed too. In fact the last picture looks like there are some rocks already stuck inside the spokes. I also like the way air has the ability to slow down the impact from pot hole damage since the stronger the impact the higher air pressure develops to prevent damage.

Reason I'm suggesting a coating is because I have seen samples of the RV 'rubber roof'. I was very surprised how thin and cheesy it was. Also now that you have an old EPDM roof, a new coating would not be impacting its future removal as much. Polyurethane coatings are generally more expensive, will stay flexible, Easy to do a touch up repair and with the right prep work, won't come loose. BTW, Vulkem caulk is a polyurethane I would test on the EPDM first. Polyurethanes cure over time and humidity or water in contact with new applications will speed up its cure time. They use it for underwater thru hull fittings on yachts. 3M 5200 is a more pure form of polyurethane. very expensive, but I wouldn't buy Home Depots 3M products as they are generally a cheaper ghosted version that can be sold at a discount. I want to mention one other item without going into the disgusting details. As a home builder from time to time, mostly a residential contractor with varying completions in 36 years..... I cannot stand nor never want to do Business with HD. Many times getting treated poorly, substandard quality or factory seconds, poor design, numerous returns taking much time and expense to the homeowner. Like I said I don't want to discuss the most recent experience that again reestablishes my absolute distaste for the company. I am very thankful they exist only for the reason that they help keep my favorite lumber/ hardware store uncrowded and with good service.

In the marine environment your polyurethane base caulking and sealants are considered the best. I've had my fiberglass camper in the oregon weather since new. It's a 2003 model that had leaks the first week I bought it. The warranty folks did shod work and I decided it wasn't worth it anymore dropping it off and trying to teach them how to do their job. Using different brands and types of caulkings I found one of the cheapest polyurethane caulks held absolutely the best over the years. Amazing cause it was put on in 04 and is still good. Amazing because it is sealing plastic to metal, two different surfaces. I'm sure most of you have heard of Vulkem. The stuff is really good and I used the fibered or textured one with fibers in it. It may reinforce it with the fibers. It has out performed Sikka Flex products, I hate to say, because some of that stuff costs about 5 times as much as Vulkem.