2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I'm trying to decide between the S200GX-E faster spool or the Super B Special SX-E S363 more top end. I don't tow. Can any turbo gurus help me decide? Anyone have experience with these? Thanks! Oh, and of course open to other recommendations, but these are what I've narrowed it to with my lack of skill. ?

Anyone on here have any thoughts on using a turbo smart blow off valave?

Ok last July my if you remember my tranny went out on my trip to Montana. I remember posting that about an hour before my tranny blew up we were climbing up a pretty steep hill at about 65 mph and I got like a 2 sec squeal and it sounded like it came from the turbo I pulled over and popped the hood and took a look and didn't see anything out of the ordinary and I could not make it do it again. So we just went on. An hour later the tranny blows. I just figured the noise had something to do with the tranny. OK here we are 5 months later. The other day I am driving down the road upshifting to 6th and when I hit 65 mph I get this same squeal again. Its just a short little squ…

It seems like everybody thumbs their noses at small compounds these days, but everyone I’ve ever talked to that has had them loved them. I’m specifically referring to stock/s300 type setups, I’m pretty sure the old BD kits used an S300 as the primary. Any idea why we don’t see that setup offered much anymore? Is it just due to a shrinking market and the S400 working better for the 5.9/6.7 crowd as a whole? I’d think someone valuing quick spool and low egt’s more than big power would enjoy the smaller setup…any theories? I’m sure I’m oversimplifying it or missing something. Maybe they really are good set ups, there’s just not a big enough market for vendors to sell them.

I have a quick question. I use a header gasket and red RVT on my Dodge wedge 540 to seal the exhaust manifold to header. SO,when I change this old turbo out to my new one should I just replace the old metal gasket with a new one or should I use any RTV to seal it with a gasket? I am leaning not to use the silicone because of the turbo, but guessing?? Thanks, Steve

I would like recommendations for some upgrades. Now that I have my quadzilla and the exhaust fell apart yesterday, I would like to upgrade everything from the tailpipe to and including the turbo. Plans include pulling the occasional 10k pound trailer (rare) and my daily driver. I do NOT want a loud exhaust at idle or old-man cruising. Budget for turbo and exhaust is in the $1500 range, though less is better! 409SS exhaust preferred due to lots of salty roads where I live. Currently have HY35. Stock injectors, am certainly interested in some upgrades nozzles in the future - like around Christmas time.

What would be the next step up for a turbo with out spending a bunch of crazy money on one? I have the HX35, which I believe its the stock turbo. Would like something that maybe spools a little faster also. I have RV 275s and an Edge EZ. Going up a grade and getting into the throttle I can see 1100 on my EGTs, and that's with nothing behind it. I have a 1800 lb trailer that I occasionally pull and it got to 1150, and held there for a second or two but that's it. I figured it was time for a little better turbo with the upgrades, especially if ever pull anything heavier. I'm not looking for a powerhouse turbo, just a little cooler EGTs. My EGT Probe is installed Pre…

Ok guys I am having to replace my head gasket and while I’m at it I decided to put in a new turbo..... after a ton of searching I am no further along in my quest to find the turbo I want. With all the sales going on next week I’d like to take advantage of it!!! -I would like 500 ish horse power -this is my daily driver -I tow a 10,000lb horse trailer once every other month -I’m running a FASS 150 -ARP Head Studs -HX40 down pipe -Quadzilla V2 tuning I’d like to pick the right turbo so I don’t regret my decision down the rd. I am torn between a few turbo sizes... -S364/68/.70SXE -S362/65/.7…

Ok guys, I posted over in the CR forum about my brother putting a new turbo on his 05. So I am thinking about buying his he351cw from him, but I have a few questions. First off what is a fair price? 130xxx miles on it no shaft play. Second is it worth it for my second gen? My egts get out of hand quickly with the comp and smarty stacked. Will this cool them down very well? I can use his old down pipe if it will work. What adapters will I need for the oil input, oil return, exhaust manifold ect. When I tow heavy I turn the comp off and run the smarty on 9. Will this be enough fuel to spool the turbo? Any input is appreciated. Remember I'm in college and I'm on a budget!

Looking for turbo suggestions for RV275s and a can bus tuner?

My truck was running ok for about 160 miles and then it acted like it didnt have any power for a few minutes but then it was ok again. I checked the codes when I got home and I got 234 and 236, Ive had them before, the manual describes them as "problem detected in turbocharger wastegate" I checked the wastegate actuator and you can push the rod to open the wastegate with a screwdriver, it takes a some pressure but it does seem to open, and I hooked air to it and it opened at around 25psi, and it doesnt seem like the acuator is leaking or anything. Should it open at a lower psi? Im also getting a 382 code. The heater works when you plug it in, and the truck doesnt have any…

Hey All - new paying member to the forum. Taking a break from the CF for a bit. Question is all too familiar I suspect. Trying to decide what to do with my 2nd gen to optimize my setup. I'm towing - or should say carrying a new truck camper (~2800 lbs) and lately going through the Washington state mountain passes and ridgelines. Lots of long slopes. My signature shows my mods but mainly I want to see if I'd be better served by increasing my injector size from 50HP to 100 to better pair with the Fleece HX35 63/65 turbo i'm running. I do see a bunch of lag even with the Quad tow tune I'm running that i had the guys @ DAP build for me. I control EGTs on long inclines mainly…

can some one tell me if the turbocharger is ok to have side to side play on the blades. it dose not have end play. the blades do not seem to be hitting the housing the truck has 160,000 miles on it thanks Joe

So, we all know about the he351, s300, etc., for 'replacement/upgrade'.. But I have a friend here locally, that asked me if I'd like to buy his turbo. He was working on a project drift-car, but has not been able to move forward, and now needs a little cash for something.. He's got an Innovative Turbo Systems (ITS) GT72R-DBB (dual BB) Compressor Wheel: Aerospace aluminum material 72mm inducer Turbine Wheel: 713C inconel material 82mm exducer A/R Options: 1.10 T4 divided 4" V band, non-gated Whatcha think (JohnFAK, AH64, etc) and anyone else that would like to chime in…

friday of last week i drove home from Elizabeth city nc to hickory nc. the truck ran beautiful with no problems. ran it out of fuel the next day. reprimed everything no problem. checked all my fluid including oil sunday before leaving for columbia tn on monday. the truck ran flawlessly again. had my 5th wheel on, drove over the bluridge mountains no problems what so ever. stopped to buy fuel and noticed some oily residue on the landing gear and front of the rv. looked under the truck a i could see fluid on every thing, not dripping anywher but wet pretty much all over. opened the hood and all the resevoirs were full so i pulled the dipstick and i was growing oil. it appea…

My 2001 4x4 is having an issue with the driver side front turn signal it flashes fast and very dim and the light under the hood also flashes along with it. The rear signal is nice and bright but also flashes fast. I've replaced the bulbs and nothing. I'm sure it's a ground issue but I have no idea where to even begin. HELP for the love of god!

A few times now since I got my oil leak stopped, I have tried to normally start my truck and got absolutely NOTHING. Before I turn the key to the start position everything appears normal. Dash lights, key in ignition bell, etc. all work. The moment I try to start the truck, ( after checking that the "wait to start icon" is off) , I hear a "click" and everything turns off - no dash lights, no starter, nothing! It is like I have no battery installed. Thinking that my massive oil leak may have caused an electrical connection problem, I cleaned all terminals and reattached all battery and starter cables, and checked battery voltage, and checked fuses. All seemed in …

My trucks shifts good and firm but if im in 3rd and slow down to 10mph or just below it wont downshift to second and sure is a slug taking off again. It will go down to first if I stop completely or 2nd if I all but stop but I would like it to shift to 2nd if I slow down to 10-20 mph. Do I need to adjust the cable or what?

OK... So I have some down time for the Christmas season (intentionally scheduled). My plans are to go ahead with a twin turbo setup. The setup that I'm currently running is 100hp BD injectors (I'm not 100% sold on keeping these...I may go with 125's or 150's), Smarty S-03, FASS DDRP (no fuel pressure problems currently, but I plan on upgrading to a larger FASS), and I plan on, most likely, stacking an Edge with the new CTS2 with what I already have. So my question for those who have gone before me is this: Which bottom turbo should I go with? I plan on using the HX35 that I currently have as the top turbo. I want a fairly quick spooling setup, and I use my truck most…

i like my truck so much i got another one. its a 01 2500 qclb 4x4 5 speed, edge jwa,couple pillar guages, some kind of 400 dollar air box (going to change to a 30 $ bhaf just need to find stock boot), four inch turbo back, four inc lift (that has to go, might have questions about that) ,fass 150, 92000 miles. oh and looks pretty good all one color with a few small dings and scratches.i need to put a fuel guage in, why it doesnt have one with all the other mods the guy did i dont know, and new fuel filters in tommoro. so i should get good pressure to vp, but my very first question on this build is this,if i have 15 psi to vp, how do i know if the vp is healthy? is there a …