2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hey guys, recently picked up a smarty so in the process of tuning and changing tire size, I checked my DTCs and got a couple I hadn't seen before so looking for a sanity check on these. First one is I'm curious if this is a typical code to expect since I'm using a lock up switch? Seems like it, but some assurance would be nice. Second is Does this relate to the lockup switch as well? Or something else? My alternator seems to be doing it's job. Appears to come up with at least 12-ish volts prior to start and gets the needle up over 14 when driving so appears to be charging. What else should I be looking for? FWI…

Hopefully I can get some clarity from you all, as I have been scratching my head. I have been posting on other sites throughout the years and have had good luck, but seems like this is the place for good electronics info. Truck info: 2002 2500 6 speed Smarty FASS 4" Turbo Back Prodigy Brake Controller BHAF List of codes from Smarty P0121 P0122 P0123 All APPS voltage codes, but I am getting high and low voltage codes P0177 WIF P1475 P1480 Aux 5 Voltage high and low P0342 P0342 Camshaft Position Sensor High and low …

I'm looking for the best option for upgraded valve springs. I've got the air for 500-550hp and I will have the fuel whenever my buddy buys my smaller 7x.009 injectors so I can upgrade. I found Hamilton 103# and CPP 103# valve springs. The obvious choice will be the CPP for $100 cheaper. I came across this company that sells through eBay and was wondering if anyone has any experience with them. The name is StreetSportIndustries they have 103# valve springs listed for almost the same price as the crowler 110# springs. The link is http://www.ebay.com/itm/98-5-07-For-Cummins-5-9-6BT-24V-103-Upgraded-High-RPM-Valve-Spring-set-of-24-/311756186784?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368 to…

I am looking for someone wanting to swap ecm's. I have an 02 manual ecm 235hp and I'm looking for someone with an 02 auto ecm that wants to swap. I can confirm the anti stall feature is present and functioning as that is the reason I am looking to swap. Trying to stop this thing in gear is like trying to stop a freight train (Allison 6 speed with extra low stall). It's never had a Smarty hooked up to it, completely stock. Pm me if you're interested.

2000 24v built trans, good hd torque converter, 40hp injectors, new IP, new FASS. Dies from park to reverse or forward gears, dies from reverse to forward or forward to reverse. Just had my PCM and ECM updated to the newest file. It's driving me nuts. Seems to be idling 50-75rpm too low. I try to move my trailer, it does. I love around a parking lot it dies. Happens at least 80% of the time. Anybody? I really like this truck...except this problem. Some people have said the torque converter is too tight.....not sure that's a thing or not. PLEASE HELP!!

Thought I saw people selling stuff on here. 2nd gen air box actually... I can't find classified section...any help? Thanks

I'll be ordering a new clutch here soon and I know my rear main is leaking so I'll be doing them at the same time. So with that being said, any tips to taking it out an how to install it? I don't wanna play with an $80 seal and do it 2-3 times before I get it right.

...Top of fuel module return lines…the smaller connection (roughly) is 5/16, the larger connection is 3/8. With Airdog 100 where would you connect the larger line? Return from engine or return from Airdog pump? ...Being larger lines are usually better in most cases (fuel line, exhaust, etc) Would there be any benefit going to larger return lines to fuel module? Thanks

Hello All, So I am in the market for a truck. I owned a 2002 6 speed a few years ago. I'm looking to get something similar. I would like to get newer but I am limited on budget. I was wondering if you guys could give me some advice on how heavy a camper a 2002 4x4 6 speed could comfortably pull. I guess I'm looking for a general rule of thumb- If I get a camper that is over 10,000#, do I need a dully? If I stay between 8 and 10,000# can I safely pull and stop without adding brake controllers and the lot. I like to keep things pretty simple, I just wanted to be educated before I begin my search for truck and camper. My goal is to have a…

Finally finishing up a new build that's been in the works for several years. April of 2000 built truck with 6 spd. We ppumped it with 01' wiring harness and ecm/pcm's. Installed the tone ring on the cam gear and just about everything else I can imagine that came on the 01'-02's. We are having trouble picking up the tach. Upon start up it will register (kind of erratic) for about 15-20 seconds then drops off. We haven't verified it's charging but assuming its not since there is no tach. We swapped wiring harnesses ecm's and pcm's with known good ones off an 01'. We've grounded and re-grounded just about everything. Swapped alternators…

Back in July I lost ECM output for my lift pump. I tested for AC noise at that time and had no issue so I corrected and added a fused power source and now it runs off a switch. BTW alternator is believed to have the same milage as the chassis which is 332,732 Two weeks ago to transmission started having issues with torque converter clutch lock up it was hunting a lot. I threw a scanner on it and started collecting live data. I find out my accelerator pedal position sensor will not register over 80% at wide open throttle. At this point I was very confused so I started testing more things including A/C noise again and the alternator is still fine my batteries…

2001...replaced fuel tank with pre 1999 tank, I’m not sure exactly what year donor was. On the inside of the (newer) 2001 tank, where the fuel goes in there is a 4 or 5 inch spout that deflects fuel just a little bit to the rear of tank. Pre 1999 tank does not have this spout inside of tank. Parts manual shows tank is used by gas and diesel models. Other minor differences …hose size, where hoses go into tank and different thread on gas cap. Question 1 Any ideas as to why OEM wants fuel diverted a bit to rear of tank? Wondering if I'm missing anything of real importance?

Any one know if an Isspro F/P gauge can be disconnected at the back to bleed off the air and then reinserted and retightened without buying a new compression wring? I'm not aware of how the plastic tube is sealed whether a compression wring like plumbing or what

I originally posted this on Cummins Forum, any thoughts or ideas would be very helpful. Truck very intermittently (probably twice in the last month), typically in traffic, at low RPM and low throttle input will start rev ing up to about 2200 RPM and then die. If I immediately try to restart it it will not catch. If i turn the key off and let it sit for a 10 seconds or so it will start back up no issue. So low RPM, low throttle pressure it will start pulling, it will gradually pull until about 2200 RPM and then die. Manual truck so once i notice the issue i push the clutch in, once i push the clutch in it will rev to up to about 2200 RPM over about two secon…

All my hoses are original in 2001 with 107,000 miles. Hoses don't look bad on the outside. No cracking, leaking or soft spots. Maybe they fall apart on the inside first? 17 years old, time to replace or am I lucky or whatever? I'd rather fix in my driveway than along road somewhere, if they are reaching the end of their life span. How long of time do you get out of hoses?

Owners manual, didn't want to wade through entire 60 page manual, (unless I get one) Question...Can I use this in my 2nd gen most of time but also move it to a different car when I want? Or once you program it for a certain vehicle, that's it? Question...Do all the features advertised work on 2nd gen's or do only show some, because of (age, or type of vehicle)? Question...Would you buy another? If I'm going to get something like a Quadzilla someday , is getting scan gauge worth the money? don't some features overlap? Thanks

Just need a little help. Have an 02 Ram 3500 wont crank until it is placed on a battery charger with a start circuit or left on charge over night. I have replaced the batteries twice, left and right battery cables have been replaced, starter has been replaced, checked fuses and the relay they're all good, cleaned all ground connections put dielectric grease on them. At a serious loss on this. Starts fine if its been sitting on the charger overnight. Some days doesn't need the charger some it does. Have put a meter on the starter and when when the key is turned over there is no draw at the starter or batteries. batteries are both 12.7, 12.8. Any help would be appreciated.

So today I get a dead pedal / stumble off idle, erratically. First time it happened once on my 12min drive to work. Coming home it dead pedaled maybe three times. Could be dangerous when pulling out into traffic. Yesterday I did a 10 hour round trip at a high rate of speed, hit 130mph per GPS on my phone, did much of the trip at 85-100mph often pulling upto 110-120. Lets just say it was some real long, real open old highway and I had a long way to go. *I was trying to get back before it got really dark, any tips on additonal lights I could mount on my bumper that are cheap and effective I am open to. So the kicker is its a P0121 code, which after r…

Like the title says. I noticed this coolant right below the exhaust manifold. Any ideas if it could be a Head gaskets issue? Just changed the oil and it's not milky. The coolant still looks good.

Just put in a rebuilt NV4500 with a 1.375" input shaft, and fully splined output shaft. The guy who rebuilt it told me to use 50w full synthetic which I did, 1 gallon of Lucas 50w full synthetic was used. Drove it around town around 150 miles breaking in the new clutch, no issues, drove it this morning from Clovis NM to Lubbock Texas, it's a straight shot but some of the town the road runs through slows down to 30mph, no issues down shifting. There are also a few lights on this road that I had to stop at from 75, again no issues. Driving back to Clovis about an hour into the drive I went to pull off to a gas station and get a drink and it did not want to come …