2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Thinking I (want or need) more fuel filtering. Right now no problems with airdog 95 or 100 (cant remember which) going from tank to airdog directly to vp44. 2 or 3 micron I believe. Want to install a 8 or 10 micron before fuel goes thru airdog filter. In late 90's or 2000's at work some of our trucks had water and fuel filter that was plastic see thru, that you could just look at and see fuel drizzle down into plastic bowl or not. Getting a visual on fuel came in handy to see if any fuel problems going on. Like out of fuel, pump not working etc. ( I do have a fuel pressure gauge) never had a problem with cracking or leaking. I'm trying to find a system …

So last week my clutch went out and so I bought a new clutch for the truck (Southbend Single Disk Feramic clutch if anyone is wondering) and I threw everything onto the truck up until reinstallilng the transmission itself. Just got done packing the throwout bearing and input shaft (high temp wheel bearing grease) and I realized the clutch is in the truck and everything already and I don't want to take it out again to get greases in the splines since I was told there needs to be grease in the splines of the input shaft and to use the clutch to spread it in the splines and I assume get some in the splines of the clutch as well. Make sense? I hope it does because my question…

When the truck is cold the oil temperature is fine when it warms up it goes down to 8 psi. When I accelerate it goes up. I have a edge tuner so the gauge is correct.

I’ve changed the cam sensor and the crank sensor but the code keeps coming up, I have also chased down all the grounds and cleaned them along with connectors.. I have 5v to the orange at every connector and or plug I’m at a loss for words right now

Did some searching around and figured I would post my experience here. Alot of people replacing the VPs over this it seems like. I went onto the dealer site and found the diagnostic tree for this code. Nowhere does it say replace the pump. It says either electrical/wiring issue which I understand could be the circuit in the pump, or the ECM. Personally I am assuming my circuit board is fine and I have a problem elsewhere. I live where there is an issue with rat damage. My pump is tapped for the Edge. I had a spare APPS to try. I tried the relay swap that moparman suggests. I cant fully rule out alternator noise but i have the BD kit and keep that ground wire r…

Seeking feedback, ideas, To install an exhaust brake (EB) with a non stardard method to control the EB. How?, leverage some functionality by adding micro switches, relay(s), tapping into the vehicle control modules. This is not the preferred setup and will require the operator or system design to replace the functionality of an electronic control box. Why? I have the brake itself, don’t have the expensive electronics. Thanks in advance, First Post Ever,.. Application: 2002 Dodge Ram 5.9 H.O. Cummins, 6 Speed Manual Trans. i figure a switch and string of micro switches that will turn the eb on/off could be…

A BHAF Muffler - Uhh?? I like the Cummins engine, but I try to do anything I can to make the engine quieter. The BHAF air filter flows lots of air, but it also allows a lot of engine air intake noise to be heard in the cab – more noise than the factory air box and the factory air filter. This inspired the idea to experiment with a BHAF muffler on a big honkin’ air filter – in this case, a NAPA 2790. A BHAF muffler is not for everybody. If you like air intake sounds, turbo sounds, and amplified exhaust brake sounds inside your cab, then this project may not be for you. For my first muffler I used a length of ribbed plastic drain pipe inserted in…

I have noticed recently that my truck sounds nothing like half the other 24 valves I come across? What makes them sound different? The only difference I can think of is HO vs SO? Obviously 5 vs 4 and stock exhaust systems will have some impact still they’re is a large difference. Mods in sig.

Let me approach this subject a different way. I am looking for a different turbo for one of my 01 3500's and would like to know if there is any math or formula to help you make this choice? I know you have to try to match the air to fuel ratio, but thats it. I have BD's 110 injectors in this particular 3500 with a stock turbo and she always has a 16' company trailer attached to it with aluminum extrusion and ladders on it. I am just wanting a little more lower and a little lower EGT's without changing injectors of course. My other mods on the truck are basically the same for this one that is in my Sig below. If you need ,more info let me know and I will gladly…

Does anyone know of an app that lists the voltage outputs on pins from the obd2 port in near real time via a Bluetooth dongle? If not this would be a good one to have.

So along with re building my trans and t-case it was obvious that I needed to check to clutch out for wear and all that good stuff. So I did just that today. Snapped some pics to show yall. I have never had a sintered iron or competition clutch so I hope yall have some input.

Well seasoned school bus mechanic tells me when they get somebody new changing oil it's only about 2 weeks till they stop filling up new filter with oil before threading on new filter without prefilling. Interesting part to me was no failures that he knows of. I fill mine but wondering if really necessary. Other than manual says so. Do you prefill?

The bottom of my dip stick looks like someone put a tack weld on the end. I haven’t seen any signs of overheating. Haven’t noticed it before, is there something going on?

Had DAP rebuild some injectors with 150 nozzles. I got the injectors in a trade that were supposed to be 200's. The numbers on the nozzle are DSLA 150 P 755, and a 77103 with 939 below. It's not a big deal, I was just curious if these were actually 200s. The notes said all 6 old nozzles were leaking anyway.

So my daily finally left me stranded. For starters my WTS has always been sluggish to come on when starting the truck. It would not start until WTS light came on. Would crank and crank unless I waited for light. I figured it was a good habit anyways. On my way to work Saturday I noticed my headlights were dimming on and off, pretty abnormal because ambient temp was mid 40s and truck started like normal. After getting to work, I drove the truck 5 to 6 times to get tools with no problems at all. Finally getting geared up to go home, wait for WTS, light comes on, so I crank and get nothing. Now have no WTS and no start. Fuel pressure is at 18lbs. Code reade…

Pulled out my case last night to do a rebuild, where can I find the best kit for rebuild. I'm in this far so I might as well do deals and bearings. Need a complete kit-Please advise. On a second note, who ever was in there before used alot of rtv, and the pick up was pretty much clogged with it.??

Does anyone know what this orange wire goes to? In the schematic it looks like 5v.

Is it imperative that a drb III scan tool be used for this? I'd there another way this can be tested? I've been looking at the power probe hook and a obd scan tool as an alternative? Thoughts?

Hello all, first post. Read allot of helpful info on here in the past. My truck is an 2000 2500. It was an auto truck and I swapped a 5 speed into it about a month ago. Been doing great, this Friday I installed a FASS DRP and a big line kit to keep my VP44 happy. Got it all done, started the truck and checked fuel pressure at 15psi. Gave it a couple revs and it wouldn't rev over 2k, would defuel itself. That's when I seen the "NO BUS" message. Only gauge that works is the tach. Pulled codes through cluster and get 920, 921, and 999. Cluster check shows all gauges and lights are good. I have spent the day cleaning all connections, pcm, ecm, cluster, bulkhead connnectors, b…

My truck will be driving just fine for a couple days, but sometimes I will start it up and try to take off and I will just die right there, or I’ll be in a drive thru and I’ll be sitting there and it will die with no warning. Today it happened 4 times by the time I could get all the way through the drive thru. Starts up just fine, but for some reason it dies when I have it in drive with my foot on the brake. I don’t know if this has anything to do with it but I did notice recently that I have a leak coming from my hydro booster. Any help would be great