2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Morning Gents. Following is a YouTube link of truck going down the road. Speed dependent tick/knock. Started happening after I installed water/meth injection and wasnt smart enough to dial timing way back. Since symptoms manifested I've redone valve lash, retorqued exhaust manifold bolts and both hotside turbo mounts. I'm not sure where to go from here, truck still has power, rod bearing on the way out? Really appreciate any insight. https://youtu.be/YgKtf61n9iE

Can anyone offer a suggestion as to why my fuel mileage is so poor, I have played with several different tunes on my quadzilla and still can’t get over 14 on the highway. I’m running 35 in tires. I’ve heard it could be injection pump but it was replaced not to long ago and it’s been running great so it’s hard to believe that’s the problem. I’m also on stock injectors

The following is not meant to create an argument just to simply explain my personal results and what I honk is right when doing a valve lash job on my truck. So everyone here has told me and untold amounts of other members here to do valves on a cold engine. Wrong. Valve lash must be done on a warm engine to get good results. The reason behind this is simple. When the tappets get hot they expand and when they get cold they contract. So if you adjust your valves while cold when you operate your truck the valves are going to expand and not allow proper intake and exhaust valve operation. I personally tried to complete an adjustment 2 times on a cold engine and both ti…

I’ve got an oil leak at this location and I bought new seal kits for both pumps but not sure how’s to go about this? Anyone got a step by step guidelines? Thanks

This is my first post so I'll try to get everything out on the table. Let me start by saying I have done all of the work on my truck 1998.5 24v dodge 2500. My current mods in my signature are up to date as of today. So first mods into the transmission which is the 47RE included a BD Stage 3 build kit following a goerend triple disk. I drove it that way for a little over 3 months. Money came around now I just recently purchased the ranging pressure valve body from goerend. Still running stock flexplate and shafts(I know not a good thing to do). After installing the new VB everything was fine for all of about 2 days. On the 3rd day is when the problems started. …

I’ve been having problems with either my hydro boost or master brake cylinder. I press my brakes and it seems hard put press a little harder and they work. But now my power steering pump is starting to hum. What could be causing this issue?

I started up my truck today, it's in a dead-cold been-parked state. I got a check engine light, the check gauges warning text light came on and immediately my temperature gauge pegged. The engine is cold! I check codes with the key turn method I get: P1693 followed by P0118. I pull more codes with my ODB2 reader and get P0118 & P0116 I tested the temperature sensor for ohms. Room temp, about 70 degrees, I get 8.6k ohms Cold water from the fridge I get 19.3k Boiling water I get 700 ohms It's doing something but not sure if it's doing that something right or not. I tested the connec…

i've had my transmission rebuilt a month ago, new apps (timbo), cleaned and make sure i had good connection for my MAP and AIT sensor. No CEL. i've done the key trick and p1693 pops up so i hook up my scanner and i get no codes. i've put on all new HD battery cables and make sure all my grounds are good plus have done W-T's ground mod. i have no tuner. i have a FASS 150 and my fuel filters were changed a couple months ago and it has been the same before and after fuel filter changes. my truck drives fine from idle to about 2,000 rpms. when i stomp on it i've gotten it to maybe 2,200rpms but it feels and sounds like it's redlining or working really hard. now my abs and bra…

Hey guys, So the truck will let out huge cloud if sitting for a few days. Clears up to just a little haze right away. Idle for a min then driveaway smokes till the truck is warm. Then gone and cant make it smoke and runs to what I think is perfect. If ran everyday the first startup puff of smoke is small but still smokes till up to temp. I have ran a bottle cleaner with little inprovement. Have been reading for awhile on line now with out any great success. Thinking hoping only injectors cause I wouldnt mind upgrading anyway. Anyone have this same problem.

Guys please excuse me as I am new to this platform. I recently purchased a 98.5 Ram 3500 5spd 4x4 that had some issues that I knew about before I bought it. It was throwing P0336 and P1693. Previous owner had replaced the crank sensor but I did it again just to be sure. Verified continuity from the ECM plug to the crank sensor connector and installed a brand new connector also. It was still doing the same thing, start right up, run and idle fine but had no tachometer, and after about 45 mins to an hour start running very choppy and inconsistently. I swapped the ECM with one from a 1999 2500 5spd 4x4 suspecting it initially. The choppiness and bad running at the hour mark…

I recieved a postcard regarding a settled class action on the 53 block,documentation is required to claim a max $500(i know not much) but the crack would have to occured after the 5/100 warranty and before 250k:spend:,but i believe that is you have a 53 block you will recieve one.

Well I thought I'd share my findings on trans temps delivering hay lately. Been hauling the same size load on same road, made four trips over the last month or so for this example. Most of my other deliveries are closer to home and trans never gets warmed all the way up. Trailer is weighing in roughly at 15,000 and making a 70 mile each way trip at 55-60 mph. Takes a little over half way through the trip to reach its towing temp of about 190°. Running empty I usually see 150-160°. Temp probe is in drivers side pto cover, I installed it when I changed trans fluid to amsoil in the spring. I did however take the expressway home today because I was running short on time and …

Hi im new to the forum and to dodges we dont really have many in the UK.. Im currently looking at buying injectors for my truck been reading alot about what size is best for this spec etc. My truck is pretty stock at the minute. But can anyone tell me what size would be good for a chipped truck with a BHAF... i dont do any towing truck is purely for fun and taking my bike to the track... Thanks everyone..

First time ever taking the head off a motor since I'm doing my second motor swap on my new-to-me 99. I bought another motor for it, as some may know, when I bought the truck it came with an 02 motor and that wont work and I ended up stumbling into this deal for a 99 but the kid took the head off to check it for cracks so the bolts aren't necessarily tight, but is there a certain way they need to come out?? Also does the head necessarily need decked? The kid I bought it from said it wasnt cracked and I will check it for my self when I put a new head gasket in it but does it need to be decked really?? Anything helps, thanks! TL;DR: I know the bolts go in a certa…

2002 Dodge 2500 4x4 auto code 1694 no power to fuel pump or injection pump just died on interstate Cummins says ecm is good

I apologize if there is already another thread for something similar to this, however I’m looking for some help in tuning my 99 5 speed. My truck has some modifications and I just don’t feel like it’s at it’s full potential with the pre loaded tunes. It’s got 60 hp injectors and a silver bullet 66 turbo, was hoping someone could give me some options or a list of what should make it run the best. Any help is appreciated.

Im looking into re gearing my truck to accommodate 35s, I’m kind of stuck between 3:73 or just going with 4:10. Is anyone running these setups and how does it do. Also is there an equation to calculate final ratio with the bigger tires? My MPG is like 12 it town and 15 on highway with the quad. I think gearing should fix my problem.

Could I get a step by step guide to doing a coolant flush? I have never done it since I’ve owned the truck and who knows when it was done last. I will be replacing the thermostat as well. Thanks

I have a 2000 ram 2500, I bought from a friend and it’s in real good shape but just had a few minor problems.... I have sorted them all out except one, it will start fine when it is cold... then let it run, shut it off and let it sit for about 15 minutes, then it won’t start. I put a new injection pump and lift pump, I have put new fuel filter, fuel pump relay, and just finished replacing all six injectors... I fired it up after bleeding the fuel system, let it run for about 20 min, then tried again to start and it would not start... I’m desperate for suggestions... but I fear I am going to have to submit and take it to a professional... and what about this b…

just a quick question. has anyone seen or had dyno numbers with and without running an air filter. THIS IS FOR DYNO/TRACK PURPOSES ONLY!!!! i dont wanna hear how its stupid to drive around without a filter. almost everyone i see takes their filter off or always runs no filter on their setup for dyno/track runs