2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

Just got in from and about 8 miles out I noticed the the check gauges light is on and the volt gauge is on 0. Roll in the driveway and put the meter and its putting out 13,8 volts on the charge stud. Not sure what to check now. Ideas anyone??? t

Actually bought these for the wheels so I can weld in jeep centers. Will play with them on the pickup for a month or so while I round of parts to make them jeep wheels. There h1 12 bolt bead locks. I've got to remove the 40lbs of runflat from each wheel. These are heavy with the run flats in Itl get old quickly running 37s but I figure maybe I'll play with them for a few just cause

After thinking my blinker issue was due to the multifunction switch, I figured out it was the relay.... so another 20 bucks later and I picked one up at Napa...and I hate it... It sounds really dinky....and has a slight delay from when I turn the switch on to when the blinker starts to flash. Is there a relay that sounds and functions like our stock ones do? The only other thing I'm trying to do is sand the copper contacts inside the older relay to see if it will start working again properly....it blinks and then stops, then will randomly start blinking again, then stop... Obviously this is not a serious issue, but when you are used to …

My truck has fender flares to cover the wider and different offset rims/tyres, end of last year I repaired the bed sides both sides, here in the UK it would be rear wheel arches, rear fenders maybe for you guys, not quite finished as weather stopped play, I've just sprayed in paint I had lying around to cover for the winter. Got to thinking If the rears were rotten then the front fenders under the flares might be the same, sure enough right hand side lower area on the fender is past it's best, no problem for our MOT as the flare covers it, looked on Rock and £73 or maybe $50 to 60 ish for the right hand front fender. Not too bad Put in my email address a…

Hi all, So my the buckle on my driver's side seatbelt was flickering the light. If I pushed it in it would go off, for awhile, then it the light would eventually come back on. It got tot he point where the light would only go off if I pushed the seatbelt into the buckle, full-time. I purchased a new Mopar part from ebay, they are not cheap. Replaced it and it worked as expected. Them my truck sat for about 6 weeks. On the first trip out the overpriced new buckle started doing the same thing the old one was doing. The good news the part has a 2 year warrantee, and they sent me a replacement. The bad news, the…

Taking my first road trip in ‘Betty White’. She’s lived a long life here in SoCal. Is there anything I should worry about or prep for when traveling up to the Utah/Colorado cold weather?

Finally getting around to some of the smaller stuff and this one has me stumped. 4x4 works, but the indicator light does not. I’ve checked the switch on the CAD and it works. When I run an instrument cluster check, no light. Advice?

Dash brake light randomly illuminates. Sometimes it stays on from start up and will turn off within 10-15 min of driving. Other times it comes on and off while driving. It’s not the parking brake. That appears to be working properly. When the parking brake is engaged the dash light comes on. If I start to drive it will flash. When I release the parking brake it extinguishes. Brake fluid looks good. Upgraded to 3rd Gen brakes up front and did a full brake job 4 months ago. Had no issues until now. Only recent maintenance is new tires. They are 34s. this issue also seems to cause cruise control to not work. possible speed sensor …

This showed up today Anybody replace one of these, just inquiring any tips of tricks to make this go smoothly, Ive watched a couple YouTube videos that remove the whole dash from vehicle and install it out of the truck, I would be fine with that but being winter time it’s kind of tight in the garage with not a lot of room to pull a dash frame out

I just got my 01 Dodge Ram 2500 Sport QCLB HO Cummins 4x4 a month ago, and it didn't come with keyless entry. I looked at the CTM and it is the single plug module and not the premium unit needed for keyless entry. I mostly just want keyless entry and an alarm on the pickup, and don't care about remote start since it has a manual trans. I know of Viper, Compustar, and other brands of keyless entry/alarm systems, but which one would be good without breaking the bank.

Thinking hard about replacing my 136 with a higher amp alternator, I’ve read a lot of good info on here, but seems like the last info I found was from 2018. Is there anything new I should check out for a good drop in replacement option with some more amperage? It snowed here in TN a few weeks ago on Christmas Eve, I spent the entire night winching tourists and holiday visitors from Florida out of ditches and creeks and one guys trout pond. Pretty sure the old 1981 Ramsey worm gear along with the 100W KC Halogens fried my diodes, figured I’d just upgrade it instead of replace.

Wondering if anyone has gone through this issue before or any suspension gurus out there? I've been in the process of getting this front end tightened up and pretty much have it were I want, now without all the wandering and whatnot I'm noticing out on the highway while under throttle it's pulling to the left. Pretty much new front end other than control arm bushings & ball joints which have no apparent need for replacement, although they could be original as far as I know. I've replaced rear spring shackle bushings awhile back because of a uneasy fishtail feeling I got last summer while towing and noticed they were pretty worn/cracked. I'm still not co…

Hi guys new here, mopar man I miss seeing you on CF! Im hoping to get a question answered that isn’t getting much traction on CF. I have a 98.5 24v a friend begged me to take off his hands as it’s pretty modified and a lot of poor work done to it. It’s ppumped, has an external voltage regulator wired up and every light on the truck inside and out quickly pulses, WTS light doesn’t come on, gauge cluster works intermittently, fass is wired to an always hot toggle switch, etc... Im swapping out the entire dash for one pulled out of a 99 1500 and I’m hoping to use the 99+ headlight/fog light switch and move the airbag selector up to the 99+ spot. …

Well I ran out of beer cans to keep up with this rust bucket so I believe it's time to address it before the whole thing rots away. Got some slip on rockers and cab corners on the way from eBay $210 shipped for both sides. I wanted to get all 3 back, inner, outer but for that kinda money I can almost buy a rust free cab and maybe I still will one day, buy a whole truck to rob parts off like @That Guy just did. Another option I had was to have a local metal shop bend me some rockers out of ss but when I shoed him what I was doing he said he tried it before for others with bad results and lots of wasted time, so my dreams and hopes went down poop tube when he told me that. …

Originally I had a power steering fluid leak, found a line I thought was leaking, replaced, still leaked, replaced other line just to makes sure, ended up finally seeing Hydroboost leaking (didn't have a brake problem) Replaced Hydroboost, then intermittently pedal would almost go to floor, so got another Reman Hydroboost, now it's locked my brakes up, unless I'm doing something wrong it's going to be #3 reman going on this am.

On the dash you can place the a/c on max and it recirculates the air in the cab to continuously cool the same air making the cab cooler in the summer heat. Is there a recirc setting that does the same for heat in the winter? Or do we have to set it on max a/c setting which blows the hot air from the main vents? Thought it might be useful on the really cold days.

Before I call Quadzilla for support, I thought I'd ask for suggestions here. I recently noticed that my Quadzilla high idle won't start anymore. I have checked several times that it is on and the elapsed time is set right now to 60 seconds. I have tried other tunes and it doesn't work with any of them. I have deleted and reloaded tunes, that didn't help. I checked that my Vehicle Selection is correct, V2 Dodge 98-2002 version 2.7, NOT the 4k. This summer a rodent chewed a little hole in my iQuad box. I have since used a VERY small piece of that rubberized/foil backed tape to seal the hole. I have not had to jumpstart the truck. The only time a battery ch…

I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 I have a brown substance coming out of the floor vent not to mention when I turn the heat on I smell antifreeze and my window steams / obviously I need a heater core. My next question is how difficult of task I have done heater core before on an S10 as far as brands should I stick with Mopar or go with something else

This kinda stated in a different thread but I thought I would post what I've done here instead of hijacking. There was a discussion about rust proofing and weather protection including the use of undercoating, fluid film and the old fashioned used oil concoction to combat rust and corrosion. Since I've been off work for a bit due to a knee problem I have been getting antsy and needed to get outside and tinker with something so I decided to try the used oil truck that was mentioned by @Mopar1973Man in another thread. I have plenty of used motor oil here on the farm (approx 35 gallons of it) so I mixed some with diesel to thin it out enough to be sprayed throu…

So Right now I have tow 2nd gens. Both 4x4 5 speeds. my 99 has always had an issue with power steering at idle mostly. I replaced the pump with a Borgeson, all new power steering lines with a filter, red head gear box, synthetic fluid and rebuilt the vacuum pump while everything was out. I still have barely any power steering at idle. I even modified the Saginaw pump by drilling a larger hole. my other truck with an all original power steering pump, lines etc has had 37s (back to stock now) and it could turn those tires without an issue even at idle. I am beginning to think the truck with the issues has a hydro boost blockage of some sort.…