2nd Generation Dodge Reliability / Performance

today, i was going to install my thermocouple at the exhaust manifold, and drilled a hole and found out that theres a wall inside the manifold right under the center where it connects to the turbo. i tapped it but im not sure if i will get an accurate reading. Has any body had this problem? looks like the place i picked to drill the hole has a wall inside the manifold and the hole passed just next to the wall.

I've had 2 NAPA thermostats fail since the first of the year. Just wondering if anyone knows of any particular reason why they could be failing aside from poor quality in the first place and what others are using Cummins or aftermarket?

SO i found a 12valve long box 5 speed 4x4. it's not in horrible shape. but it also has 306K on it. trans looks new. P pump is new, new injectors. could use some control arm bushing, steering will move from 10-2 and still go in a straight line. no major oil leaks. no blow by that i could tell. shifted amazing compared to my G56. has no rust, rear air bags. AC works. forgot to check heat as it was only 88 outside. this is a joy ride truck, toy. wood cutting truck. he's asking 8K i offered 5 and he said no. so... how much would someone say it's worth. ball park. it''s my second unicorn truck, 12V 5 speed long box 4x4. thoughts.

Just curious if anyone has ever got rid of their stock fan and went to electric? Also, would a Lincoln Mark VIII fan be up to snuff? They've been known to push upwards of 4500 cfm of air.

I see that Geno's carries a bolt in after drilling transmission pan adapter to install a temperature sender. Seems you drill a hole in the tin pan and install the compression fitting. Does this sounds like a viable option to buying an after market aluminum pan for a couple three hundred bucks? My transmission is due for service and seems like a good time to add the temp gauge.

Hey guys, just wondering, is Timbo one of those mods worth doing even if my current APPS isn't acting up? I definitely planned on going the Timbo route once my APPS finally crapped out on me, but just wondering if I'd even notice a difference switching to it now? I'm usually not a big fan of swapping out parts just to do it, but if it'll give a noticeable difference in drivability or something, I'm more then willing to do it.

The clutch is slipping so it's time to upgrade. It's so bad I hope I make it home. Which online store has good customer service and sells southbend clutches?

So what should I know heading into this project? I came across this somewhere (maybe it was even here somewhere, can't remember) and wonder what you guys say about it. http://www.turbodieselregister.com/tdrarticles/tdrarticle53_fromtheshopfloor.html I plan to go with Moog parts. What about the alignment, I understand that getting things set precisely is important on these trucks. I have a serious wandering problem and hope to gain a lot of ground with this problem.

Hey guys just ordered a fuel boss and big line kit for my 01 and picked up an s03 cheap a while back to turn on hi idle function (not currently using tuning). So now it’s time for gauges. I really wanted to go back to what I knew with my insight setup on my old ford but pricing them out now with the added fuel boost and egt sensors to read accurately it’s near 850. So I’m circling back to 3 pod style. Looking at isspro, what range do y’all run on gauges? The kit has 0-1600 egt 0-40 boost 0-40 fuel Seems like more of 0-1600, 0-60, 0-30 would fit things better? Also is there a pillar that replaces the oem one or doesn’t i…

At idle I am showing 2-4% engine load. I can't remember but I think that means my injectors are getting wore out??

Time for new injectors. My engine load is down to around 2-3% and idle is at 900-950rpm. My plan is to go with 7x10s and some ARP headstuds but I worry if my truck will be undrivable if my Quad goes out like Mike's recently did. I know he said his didn't smoke too bad but I believe his turbo flows more air to clean it up. I have just a stock HX35 with a boost elbow. I don't want it smoking like a chimney if I have to drive it without the Quad. Thoughts?

OKHey - sorry - I have posted 'similar' post before but keep going round in circles as I have no idea what I am talking about. Narrowed down to Edge Juice with Attitude -as it taps the Vp44 Pros - seems very responsive and powerfulCons - might blow my stocktransmission TS MVPProds - plug and play and up to 100HP [supposedly]Cons - if at 100HP could still do tranny damage - can I really get 100HP without tapping the VP44 Smarty Pros - good timing advance and good reviews - increase MPG ?Cons - will I feel it ? Will it give me extra MPG ? Doesn't Tap the VP44 thoughts/ratings ??then I need to BUY this thing !!! Any1 got any to sell second hand ?? thanks

We did it yesterday. Only lost one SS lock nut down between the coolers & the bumper.

Well I got a 01 3500 stock auto slush box. stock hy turbo. stock, stock, stock. Easier to talk about the few upgrades I do have. Airdog 150, BHAF, Old programmer/tuner from like 2002. I am at cross roads as to what to do next. one is how to build the engine. The other is what tranny to put in it. My goals are to have a tow monster and power to have fun with. I don't mind slow turbo spool up speed but i do want one hell of a loud turbo whistle from the intake. I want compound turbos and I know a single turbo might be an option but am thinking it can't do it. I am able to fab up the mandrel bent pipe for the intake. I am not opposed to buying a bolt on kit just need to weig…

My DPP died and they no longer service the Power Puck that I have. So, I am in the market for a programmer/ Tuner. I am looking hard at the Quadzilla Xzt or adrenaline. I would like any suggestions or feedback on those products or something else.

Is there any way of keeping the stock timing on the Quad? I am having trouble with timing settings & it pulling my engine down. I have tried quite a few different timing settings & I'm getting the same results. Not worried about fueling right now until I get this figured out. With the Quad on 0 trucking runs smooth & zippy. As soon as I go to 3, it pulls the truck down noticeably by listening to engine sound change. It sounds like it's being put under load. This does not happen at idle. It also makes the truck very sluggish.

I’ve gone through the tuning process, and I like my boost level fueling curve. I also think I Ike my pump tap parameters, but I’m not sure my stock clutch can handle much wiretap at all. But all of my timing parameters are set to Mike’s economy settings. I’m going to lose sleep about not having ARP studs. I don’t really understand the timing settings, so I need them explained (dummy style) or I need to know how not to exceed recommendations for stock head studs. I’d like to get studs, but I’ve got to get on the road hauling my 7k pound camper here soon and don’t have the time or cash. I’ve done a lot of reading, but I just can’t quite get my head around the technica…

So I just found out that the local supplier here in Oregon (SeQuential), that supplies fuel to the Shell station I usually go to, has a cetane rating of 55.3 for their B100. They cut it with regular #2 diesel to make it B20. The cetane rating should then be about 50 for the B20. All the research that I've done states that B20 should be right about there. My question is, what timing would be the best for this 50 cetane fuel? I normally drive at 60-65 and my rpms are ~1550-1675. Should I be around 16* cruise timing for max fuel economy with this fuel or is that too low/high?

Back in january i got an airdog 150 with half inch fuel lines. I used the included draw straw from airdog. I remember seeing several people with complaints so being as i have yet to have an issue i thought i would offer up what i did and how well it has worked for me so far. So in the instructions it says to cut the end of it at an angle. I cannot remember how much of an angle i used but i would say roughly a 45 is what i ended up doing (actually i think now that i did about a 35 degree cut with some side cutters). Face and cut it so the opening of this angled bottom is facing away from the bottom corner of the tank to avoid having it get stuck to the bottom. …