Mopar1973Man

Not a problem I've gotten pretty good at doing remote support for Linux now.

Seriously. If you had Linux installed the SMART (Self-Monitoring, Analysis and Reporting Technology) would of warned you long before the drive was dying and given you more than enough warning to backup data before it failed. Like the 250 GB drive on my desk it fail this winter in the shop computer and both BIOS showed the failure and so did Linux at boot time then impending drive failure is going to happen backup now before the drive starts to fail. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/S.M.A.R.T. <- Read more... What is really weird is Microsoft doesn't use SMART technology in Windows software other than the Scan Disk for error but there is no software within Windows to monitor SMART status of the drives unless you purchase the software and install it.

"I've got too much Stuff in my RV!"

Believe it or not retarding timing or preventing excessive advancement from excessive cold air. Cold air tends to hurt MPG's optimal IATtemps for MPG's is about 100-140*F

Believe it or not retarding timing or preventing excessive advancement from excessive cold air. Cold air tends to hurt MPG's optimal IAT temperatures for MPG's is about 100-140*F

NO! Do not adjust the voltage! The voltage is only for the IVS of the APPS nothing more. I would run the diagnostics of the error code. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/151-p0122-apps-sensor-signal-voltage-too-low

Me personally would tear it down completely and start over.

There is no proof of excessive pressure blows seals but why take the chance of it happening. You only need enough pressure to keep the overflow valve open. So the suggested pressure is 14-20 PSI. Your not going to increase flow much more... Return is much much smaller...

I would check both fuel pressure and error codes and figure out what is causing limp mode? Over Boost?

Interesting. I really don't have a answer. Is your neutral and hot on the right sides of the outlet? (Shooting from the hip)

Don't even have a damper...

Opps my bad... Trailer rating is 13,400 and 20,000 for GCW.

Very very rare we stay in RV parks. If we do its for a short period of maybe 2 days tops. The rest of the time the RV used solely out in the forest of Idaho so I'm really not to worried about filters and such. Typically 50 gallons of water will cover us for 3 days tops. That getting a least 1 shower a piece between MoparMom and myself. On my truck I've got a trailer rating of 13,600# or GCWR of 20,000#. I tend to watch that more so. I'm finally getting the RV setup the way I like it. She bit heavy but I'm liking it. I'll go back through the cabinets and clean up a bit more.

Hua?? DAP $995 NEW PSG - http://www.dieselautopower.com/product-p/sovp44.htm Vulcan $999 NEW PSG - http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Bosch-VP44-p/vp44.htm BC better knock the prices down lot more to even come close. Also why would I buy a used PSG unit when I can buy NEW PSG unit for less! BC - USED PSG $1196 ??? http://bluechipdiesel.com/products.html

DAP sells "tapped" injection pump warranties...

Also check for proper gaps. I've seen some GM products with gaps as large as .065 inch. Even the 96 Dodge I think is .040 IIRC.

Jasper's page I think is way out of date. The diaphragm is no long rubber and its a harden steel plate. Bosch requires all electronics to be replaced now. I know that DAP and Vulcan Performance both sell only new PSG's. So most of these things are now nothing more than Internet myths and tales.

5th on flats. 4th on grades.

I would ditch the Smarty at that point tap the pump. Smarty it bound by the limits of the ECM and can't exceed that. But tapping the pump with a external module it can calculate fuel table beyond the limits of the ECM and continue well above. 100HP injectors I bet you could run a good 3x3 or 4x3 without much problems which would still be just about the same level of power I'm producing. Might have to tweak the sublevel for best smoke versus lag. That's another thing the Smarty can't do is smoke control very well.

Add my 2 cents... 1. Boost under 5 PSI and EGT under 600*F. (At least 24V's) 2. Find a travel path that less stop and go even if its slightly longer. I'll go a couple blocks over knowing I have less stop signs or stop lights. 3. Correctly air up your tire using the formula. You get the best of both worlds good tire wear and good MPG's. 4. Something about that 2k mark when your just slightly below it you'll do better. 5. Absolutely! Don't add more rotational mass or rolling resistance. Like another gent told me for every 10 pound of tire is like adding 100 pounds to the frame. 6. Most modules and programmers do help being CR's are very retarded in timing. 7. Dragging brakes should be checked every tire rotation which should be done while doing your oil change. 8. Levelling, lifts, etc. Measuring out your frontal area is the area of drag the your vehicle will produce so the more it stands up in the wind the slower you have to go to cut wind drag.

Most laptops have sensors to report heat, fan and other things it just that Microsoft doesn't use these sensors much at all. You can buy external software under Windows to do to read some of these sensors but still limited in what the software can do. Under Linux is a different story the ACPI and APM and used highly and all sensors are used as well. After a bit of studying I managed to increase battery life and reduce CPU temps while on battery use.

I don't think so. You don't even have injectors listed in your signature so assuming stock injectors you'll be fine with the Edge Tapped and cranked up to 5x5 it will be just fine. Even my last trip out with 16,820# of GCW I was still a manageable EGT's without any problem 55-60 MPH on average. Climbing 6-7% grade still well below 1,200*F with stock HX35W turbo and straight piped 3" exhaust.

Well there is one company... https://www.system76.com/ But like me I bought a laptop from Staples which came with Windows 7 on it and formatted the hard drive and installed Ubuntu directly to the hard drive. I've got a thread started over on Tractor Farm and Family trying to help others convert to Ubuntu... http://forum.tractorfarmandfamily.com/showthread.php?t=15556 If you get the software installed I'll gladly hop on the phone and the internet and remotely configure and tweak and teach you Ubuntu Linux.

Sound like it needs some adjusting...

I'm trying to break the 30 MPG numbers empty. Already high marked at 27.2 MPG.