Mopar1973Man

Still cleaning the RV yet...

Something seems off. What kind of hitch bumper pull or 5th wheel? Are you dual rear axle or single?

Out here its called "Life Flight membership" if you have a medical emergency and life flight is needed then it won't cost you anything if your a member. All they need is dispatcher or a EMS tech to call for it give GPS location and they will come. Even then with country we got they might require EMS to truck you several miles to a LZ for Life Flight to use.

More... Well as for myself I live in rural Idaho and see people living check to check and barely scrapping by. But its such a shocker to go to like Ontario, OR or Boise, ID and see people driving high dollar vehicles, speeding, and shopping till they drop. Totally unreal! Then after getting a load of that for the day I'm more than happy to stroll back up to the mountain cruising at 55-60 MPH. See the run down town of New Meadows, ID I'm happy to see home is just around the corner. I've got no problem living on a tight budget. Thinking about budgets... I know this is thread hijacking... But even the budget of the site is running down hill.

All so common people don't set there sublevels correctly and then suffer from lack of power issues. Or even more common is people on Edge Juice setting the alarms and limits too low and defueling the performance when its needed most.

Grab a standard 30A relay and wire pins 85 and 86 to the lift pump circuit and the code should be stopped then just clear the codes and drive for awhile. Remember all AirDog fuel systems are triggered by a 30A relay.

I was speaking of daily driving. So if your measuring WOT which is more or less no holds bar then the cc flow rate would be higher that stock and the pulse length would most likely be the same (in theory). So yes the RV275 injectors where for the 275 HP RV edition of the Cummins ISB. Just another stock injector. Simple way to show it. Take a 80 PSI water source. Then 2 separate hoses. One hose is going to be a standard 5/8 inch garden hose and the other will be a 1" inch fire hose. Now open the valve at the same time and leave open for say 10 seconds (The delivery time the ECM commands - in theory) and close together. Now measure the water delivered by both. Of course the 1" hose will flow more. The fact is the VP44 is only going to produce like 18,000 to 20,000 PSI (Guessing here) and the pressure will be the same with both injectors but the total flow amount will different. Hence HP increase with larger injectors.

You might want to hook up with LiveOak here or go over to www.tractorfarmandfamily.com and talk to TFFAdmin either way you'll find Randy he's also a beekeeper as well.

Opps my back though it was 2nd Gen... (Backing out of the door slowly)

As fair as I've ever found about the PCM/ECM on the Dodge Ram truck there is no learning cycle. So in other words if the truck is modified the ECM/PCM have no clue no do they change fuelling or timing tables unless the modification is designed to do it. Say like injectors the ECM is only going to fuel X amount of cc's fuel for Y amount of load so it has no clue the injectors are bigger. But like now install Edge or Quadzilla the ECM does what its designed to do but the add on modification will modify the signal to the CANBUS and/or the wire tap on the pump. So even then the ECM really isn't aware of the modification. The only modification is a programmer like a Smarty where it directly changes the ECM software.

You want to do all testing between the BAT terminal on the alternator and the NEG post of the passenger battery. Set for AC scale.

All main electronics (ECM, PCM and VP44) are grounded to the battery cables NOT the body or block. So double check your cables. The body grounds are for lights and other accessories. I suggest you remove all wiring mods or aftermarket devices and return all wiring back to stock lay out. There is absolutely no reason to modify the wiring. Its all about fixing the problem. If the truck ran 10-11 years without this and now requires it now that tells me something is broken and needs to be fixed.

Fixed...

Check your cranking fuel pressure while hot it should be 7-12 PSI.

First check this out... http://www.businessinsider.com/shawn-hogan-sentenced-in-ebay-affiliate-marketing-scam-2014-5 Then some people do things they shouldn't and get in trouble. Read and see what I mean.

Like my slave cylinder if I unbolt it and let it hang out at full extent then it would be like two inches out of the bell housing I would have to shorten mine but then I would have no throw afterwards to disengage the clutch. So the only thing I can say is time to invest in a throw out bearing! I know everyone hates to drop a transmission for this reason but its broke and needs to be fixed.

Strange enough I pull it all apart and put it back together and sitting on my shelf in the shop for future needs.

They are constant load throwout bearings the slave rod will constantly keep pushing back against the throw out fork. So you going to need to replace the throw out bearing like it or not. All you have to is measure the fully extended length of the slave rod and then measure the distance from the bell housing to the fork and see that the slave rod will be pushing quite a bit on the throw out bearing.

Lock up controller usually supplied with the exhaust brake. Then you'll only get exhaust brake function in 3rd and 4th gear. There is a valve body mod that allows lock up in 2nd gear so you could use the exhaust brake in 2nd gear too.

What?! 10k miles for set of pads?! Holy Cow! Exhaust brake 185k on a set of pads. I could of cleared 200k but didn't want to push my luck. All high performance pads are is a brake pad with more metal in it to bite the rotor harder which in turn causes more rotor wear in the long run. So I bought the absolute cheapest brake pads from RockAuto.Com with the least amount of metal in them and still to this day don't touch my service brakes till under 20-25 MPH.

That why I suggest testing with a live data tool first to verify the IAT is actually damaged. Only about 1% of all the IAT actually fail. Even with my exhaust brake and all carbon/oiled up mine is still correct so the old wife's tale washing off the sensor isn't true. Also with my IAT now fooled solid at 143*F no codes and no MPG's issues either. The two big players in timing is ECT, IAT and Battery temp sensor. Yes. The battery temp sensor does play a role in it too.

First make sure all sublevels are turn up to 5. Hold the power switch for 3 seconds when you release the sublevel will be display with quick flashing LED's. Do this for all main levels. To return to the main level just click OFF and and back ON. Solid LEDS should be shown (main level). 1x5 2x5 3x5 4x5 5x5 Then select 5x5 and test drive again. There is a bug in the Comp software where if you set 4x1 and the 5x5 and select 5 level it will run doggy. But now correct 4x5 and 5x5 and select 5 level again it will roll coal with the best of them.

Have the batteries load tested to see where you are being plugged in isn't a good way to check the batteries but to be unplugged and check and see if the batteries hold up to loads without falling on there face. AC system is AC powered only so I would verify the AC power is getting to the unit and then verify the thermostat is triggering properly.

I would consider a exhaust brake well before throwing that kind of money at rotor and brakes. Wow! No problems here coming down 16% grade loaded. I bought the cheapest brake pads from RockAuto.Com for both axles $50 bucks. Still running OEM rotors. 229k miles total only done 1 brake job ever!

Like my trip I just done on Mother's Day to Ontario, OR I was up to 26 MPG (MoparMom as my witness) cruising around Ontario, OR and doing awesome at holding the number all day in Ontario, OR. Till I turn around and head for home and the winds kicked up and storms where moving in pulled me down to 23.5 MPG when I hit home. Then today really pulled it down crawling the mountain to the "Fire Chief's" house to take care of fire business then head to town and do a computer job. By the end of today and all the BS and crawling mountains roads I'm still barely 21 MPG. I typically get higher numbers in town than on the highway. I gain MPGs in town. I'm also very selective of where I drive I don't look for city streets with lots and lots of stop and go but stay on the rim of town as much as possible. I'm not common rail either but figure out how to gain advantage of the timing curve. (IAT modifier)