Mopar1973Man

More than likely not. Being most all parts in the pump are harden steel there isn't a whole lot a person could do. Maybe clean it up a bit with sandpaper. But more than likely if you did the tolerance would be all goofy. This why most are just better off replacing the pump as a whole. But as for why I tore this one down is to bring information and understanding of what is inside the pump and possible reasons to why they fail so we can correct things to get better life from your pump.

That photo is without the compressor running and equalized. I need to see with the compressor running. If it dropping the low side below 30 PSI its cutting out the compressor till the low side pressure returns.

I think a person could get a seal kit and reseal a pump but as for rebuilding it and getting it right and calibrated with new parts I don't think it could be done properly. Not saying it not capable of being done but optimal pumping wouldn't be there. @ Katoom There is that broken disc again. But it would surprise you how many "Injection shops" still tell customer their VP44 failed from a torn diaphragm. I still get phone calls today about this diaphragm failure.

THat's why I asked for the pump so I could tear it apart and look and see what all the talk of this diaphragm. To this day I don't see this rubber disc anywhere. So far I part with the parts a bit and found most all parts (moving) are harden steel. I'm still digging all over the internet looking for a seal kit that includes the "diaphragm"...

From what I can figure out is temperature of the fuel will effect timing of the VP44 so the colder the fuel the more advanced the timing. This allows more time for the VP44 to inject the fuel, convert from liquid to vapor then to ignite. Where hotter fuel would ignite easy and would require less timing. Then of the fuel got excessively hot then defuel the VP44 to attempt to protect it from damage. But you would be shocked at the temperature it has to get to to trip a code of VP44 over temp.

No. The fuel heater is self contained thermostatic switch inside the fuel heater itself. There is no ECM control of the fuel heater.

Update! Just look over on the Download section.

Grabbing a copy myself to add back to the forum download area. This will insure everyone gets a shot at them. Done. I'll get them processed and added to the site ASAP.

Not sure. Find out more later when I get to work on it. Gotta work on the Chief's rig, then the new fire truck, and also got a Firemen's Dinner coming up. Lot's happening.

The black sensor on the end of the ribbon is a tone wheel pickup and fuel temp sensor.

2009 Dodge 6.7L 2500 - 6 Speed Trans - Never exceeded 65 MPH even on the interstate empty but coming back lot of times the load of the trailer was enough to flat drag him down to 30 MPH on 7% grade. Deleted DPF, Delete EGR, Deleted EGR Cooler and Edge Juice CS. Every thing else is stock. Roughly 61k miles on the clock. I need to get back up to his place soon to get work done anyways.

My 2002 has power... 6.7L 14.1 MPG down and 11.2 MPG back.

Me is using Quadzilla module to read it I'm using a ScanGauge II live data tool. It's a amazing what you can learn about efficiency when you study all the sensors and what is going on.

Hey Dorkweed could you tell me how they affect your over all MPG number being you've been tracking all along. I'm really curious of the out come. Remember to GPS your odometer now.

I'm sorry... I sucks to see people fighting with pumps like this. But hopefully Ed and Charlie (Pureflow) get things back on track.

I typically see about 130-135*F at hghway speed at 100-110*F outside temp. I can see huge spikes of 160*F (or higher) hitting the exhaust brake.

I'm hidding my camers for while till April when I can turn on the water aand wash both trucks. They are both looking rather nasty.

Usually I see hotter temps at slower speeds like in town cruising speed limit at 25 MPH city or 15 MPH residential. Less wind flow to cool the intercooler.

Fuel Pressure on my truck is 17.5 at idle and 16 at WOT. So if you losing over 5 PSI I would highly consider looking into your fuel pump and see whats going on. All I got is a AirDog 150.

I'm running Vulcan Performance +50HP injectors now. Very sweet power and nearly smokeless at 5x3 on the Edge Comp.

I'm seen several threads about remodelling or gutting RV's its not a easy nor a job for the timid...

??? I seen as high as 150*F cruising with 110-115*F summer heat.

I've seen several run as high as 40 PSI but no one ever keep it there for very long nor was willing to report how it was doing. Maybe because it blew the seal? Damaged the Vp44 pump? Onee guy was proud of his mechanical 12V fuel pump at about 35-40 PSI but he disappeared.

Forgot the camera and was too busy and forgot to ask... i'm pretty sure its a 2006 Ford 550 truck with utility box. Automatic and 4WD.

(Shaking my head) I never left a computer repair that long even with shipping parts from Boise, ID or even New York. A matter of fact I'll be doing a Linux class with a friend that spending the evening here at the house. Then we got split early in the morning doing a few jobs.