Mopar1973Man

Sound like a white knuckle of a trip. :rolleyes:As for the 1 ton the only thing it will do is aid in stability a bit but you'll still experience the wind pushing and pulling. That because of the pure size of the profile. As for the pulling power or transmission that won't change. That was another reason why I chose the manual transmission and a exhaust brake. I knew the purpose of the truck was going to be pulling heavy and auto are just not design for it out of the box.This is one of the few reason I did not opt for a 5th wheel. Because of the overly large profile and typically heavier RV. Question, What is your over length and height Hex? So far I've not recorded any fuel mileage below 13 MPG ever in all 217K miles of the truck life.I don't think so much the truck is to blame it the profile and weight of the RV.

If you made it that far you should be fine...

So it doesn't get lost in the future I added Rogan's write ip to the article database... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/31-exterior/433-clearance-lights-cab-light-install

I'm beyond 200K... If I remember right its 217K miles.

Here is the small list of Bosch Rebuilders with a Bosch 815 test stand in house. Very expensive machine... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/247-bosch-certified-vp44-injection-pump-rebuilders

Ah... No. First I got to have the woman. Haven't found her yet. Like the old saying... "What do you call a pretty woman in Riggins, ID?" (Scroll down for answer) Answer: Tourist.

Optimal is to have ZERO AC noise at all. But you got to remember the logic chips in the computers don't like AC noise. I guesstimate roughly 0.1 AC volts to be excessive for the system. Like I said optimally you want ZERO AC voltage. Typical Alternators I've tested run about 0.01 to 0.03 VAC. WOT will not hurt it at all with a empty truck. It's actually a good thing to get the engine nice and hot now and then to burn the carbon off the injectors and clean up the cylinders. Carbon starts to burn at 1,000*F so getting 1,100*F EGT's will clean up the nozzles and keep it running good. Not to mention at WOT or very heavy throttle you maximize the VP44 injection pressures and blow any carbon out of the nozzles as well. You should aim for the lowest pressure at 14 PSI this way to keep the VP44 cooled. As for the cranking test... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCJjMzRImpA

Right on you two... :thumbup2:As for the overhead lie-o-meter or the overhead idiot... Now you know why it named that...:lol:I've done similar runs with my truck spent the night on the mountain and then come coasting down in the morning and the ScanGauge show like 200+ MPG but by the time I get home its back to the typical 20-22 MPG.

Please... Me, the camera man?! I don't think so...:lmao2:My woman would have to be willing to change oil on my truck.

No. Sad but true there has been only 3 forum member show up here at my place. I've only met John once down in Boise for a brief meeting down near the Boise Airport.

Ok. Lets clear this up some more. What is... [*]Crank Fuel Pressure [*]Idling fuel pressure [*]WOT fuel pressure at highway speed Give you an idea mine as of lately is... [*]9-11 PSI Crank Fuel Pressure (bouncing from the ECM modulation of power) [*]18 PSI Idling fuel pressure [*]16 PSI WOT fuel pressure at highway speed Yo need at least 14 PSI under full load to keep return flow happening for the VP44 for the cooling and lubrication of the Bosch VP44 injection pump. As for cranking pressure you can test it by pulling the fuel pump relay and cranking on it and see what the pressure is. Notes This will set a P1689 code so don't panic. Just reset the code with your code reader. The rest of the numbers are seen on the highway.

I don't see any issues with your results. 0.03 to 0.04 VAC is fine. As for the VP44 I'm curious what fuel pressure you are seeing?

As for welders I've got a little 110 VAC MIG welder that I do light weight welding. As for traction bars I would drill and bolt them on. Like others had said I would drill slowly with large bits. As for the binding of the bit I typically just hand tighten the chuck with the idea that if it binds it normally slips in the chuck. I've got a Matkita Drill that is high torque and broke 1/2" bits in it before. I would rather replace chucks than breaking my bits or my arm.

Suggestion...Just remember to stay after the marker lights and check the sealant they do start leaking after awhile. This is one of the few reasons why I never added lights to my truck. I don't want the issues with roof leaks.

Even my HX35W is...55 MPH = 2-3 PSI65 MPH = 5-7 PSI75 MPH = 7-9 PSI Roughly speaking.

Now as for dead pedal it defined as no throttle response over the entire range of pedal from idle to WOT. So true dead pedal the truck just idles and won't move. More or less like unplugging the APPS sensor.What you describing is a limited throttle.

:think:APPS sensor is powered by the +5V of the ECM and ground by the ECM. So its not a APPS sensor. Now the VP44 is grounded to the driver side battery cable and so is the ECM. So I would test the main battery cables for voltage drop and see if there is more than 0.2 volts lost during heavy load. But the A/C and blower grounds are not even near the battery ground. The blower is grounded in the cab and controlled by a relay in the PDC under the hood. Then the A/C is grounded on the left rear of the engine block.

Kind of like pull out a head light fuse for the left bulb there is no power to that bulb but if you turn on the headlights then the bulb glows dim because power is given from the headlight back through the ground circuit.

All too often people chop up the trailer wiring for one reason or another. I suggest you take a peek under the truck check the rear for slices or scotch-loc's and then do the same in the cab. I know these trucks can with a trailer brake controller pigtail you can get from the dealer for your controller. Double check that someone didn't get lazy and chop up the cab wiring for it.

Yes. There is also another bundle of grounds in the center of the dash also linked to that same ground.

Both the WTS light and the lift pump are directly controlled by the ECM there is no other outside device that control these.

It's a sign of high EGT's what typically cracks the exhaust manifolds. So you might want to change that I know they are not cheap but I'm sure digging around on the Internet or forums you'll find a used one for sale. With the cracked manifold your losing drive pressure to the turbo so boost pressure is going to be weaker. Not to mention the exhaust fumes in the cab. (cough, gag, cough). With your mild mods you should consider installing a EGT gauge with the new manifold.

Well this trip went wrong from the get go. [*]Forgot my 2 front headache rack boards. [*]When I attempt to fall the tree it sat back and bound the bar. Had to beat wedges in to free the saw. [*]The some where coming down the road I had a flat tire. So when I got back toward home I swung into a family friend place and dump the load off in her yard. Yeah! I gave the load away to a friend free of charge. I'm tired...

Just go to the User Control panel and edit your signature. :thumbup2:As for the timing thing. I would be careful I know that the pump is modifed its timing and stacking more on might or might not case issues. This one of the few reason 80-90% of people say to get get a stock SO pump then you can do anything you wish module wise but have a Special X or Hotrod Pump there is added timing on the pump and could be risky adding more on with a module and then work the truck hard towing. The problem is no one know exactly how much extra the pump is giving then how much a module is giving in timing combine who knows? I'd rather error to the side of safety...

Even if you do straight out the overhead computer it will never be correct in MPG. The only time its even close is a purely stock truck but with that Special X it no longer even going to be close. Now like a ScanGauge you can calibrate both flow and distance and get a corrected number that is closer or dead on the money.Perosnally I would give up on the over head pull it out and put the blank back in there. Then get a ScanGauge or Ultragauge and be done with it.MPG = Speed MPH / Flow GPH22 MPG = 55 MPH / 2.50 GPHSo as you see from the math is speed or flow is off then the rest is off. Since there is no way to calibrate the flow in a overhead computer it will always be incorrect. As for the special X I suggest you don't add a timing module on top. You could use a TST fueling box or a Smarty (without timing) and be fine. Excessive timing isn't good either. Hence why with Edge Comp and Smarty with timing is not suggested either for the same reasons. But i'm sure there will be people saying they done it. I look at efficiency and longevity not HP/TQ numbers and racing two different stories.