Mopar1973Man

If you know where to look... torrentz.eu/search?f=autocad

Knowing that I'll send them your way now for SGII... I typically send them back to ScanGauge.com or Autozone...

Once again it not about volume. Its about pressure stability. Like when I jump on a fire truck and hook up a 2 1/2 inch hose I put a nozzle on the end that might neck down to 1 1/2 inch internally. the reason for the larger hose is to keep pressure stability at the far end which its does even though the nozzle can't even consume the 2 1/2 inch line volume rate. Another example I've got my irrigation system. Starts at 8 inch line at the dam wall and necks down to 4" as it travels to the splitter manifold. Then its divided in 1" lines to 3 yards. But in my yard I've got a high water demand because of the pelton wheel. Since the line neck down to 1" and all the demand volume required I had to install pressure gauge so I could measure my losses to the 1" inch line. So from a static pressure I've got roughly 116-118 PSI with everything running pelton wheel and all sprinklers I can drop to about 20-22 PSI. The pelton wheel is a loss at that point and doesn't produce. In this example the demand volume is greater than the supply volume and so pressure stability is lost. So as you you can see larger lines give better pressure stability since the line volume out weighs the pump consumption volume so the pressure drop is minimized. 1/2" Line at 15 foot at 15 PSI can flow 570 GPH... I hardly doubt we could consume that... But the pressure is stable... 6mm stock lines without banjos can only flow 75 GPH with the same length and pressure. (Calculated flow rates using 3.0 cSt fuel)

Less demand volume. I've got more fueling mods than can demand more volume than your truck so of course I'll see a bit more pressure drop. (Edge Comp and RV275's)

Stodg has it covered for the most part in his link.:smart:The biggest thing is get off the interstates and slow down. When its possible to get 14 MPG just cruising along with my setup at 55 MPH... I know I drop down to 9-10 MPG at 65 MPH. Also be aware most ST (special trailer) tires are only rated fro 65 MPH so its best to slow down and get away from the redline of the tires anyways.

Just remember you can't (or shouldn't) use a module or a programmer against a Hotrod pump. The hotrod pump is already advanced in timing so it can over advance it. So keep that in mind if you think about buying one...

Heck to rub it in more I just got done waxing the truck. April 1st get to fire up the irrigation system for the property so I know spring is on the way...

Welcome to the family.

It is for heat and lubrication. The heat is the electronics that is the problem. The circuit board is heat sinked to the fuel side of the case. Here is the full paragraph... [h=2]Overflow Valve Operation[/h] Fuel volume from the fuel transfer (lift) pump will always provide more fuel than the fuel injection pump requires. The overflow valve (a check valve) is used to route excess fuel through the fuel return line and back to the fuel tank. Approximately 70% of supplied fuel is returned to the fuel tank. The valve opens at approximately 97 kPa (14 psi). If the check valve within the assembly is sticking open, fuel drainage of the Bosch VP44 injection pump could cause hard starting. If a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) has been stored for “P0168 decreased engine performance due to high injection pump fuel temperature”, the overflow valve may be stuck in closed position. Yes. Here is the valve... The Overflow valve... x10 mag of the lower bled hole.

3/8" line might be fine. But it still comes back to pressure stability... Kind of why fire fighter don't put out house fires with garden hoses but pull a 2 1/2" line. It's about reserve volume and pressure stability.

Done... Stock fuel pump with stock 6mm lines and 1/2" lines. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/137-vulcan-performance-big-line-kit [TABLE=align: center] [TR] [TD=class: moparnote, align: center]Running Mode[/TD] [TD=class: moparnote, align: center] Factory Lines[/TD] [TD=class: moparnote, width: 34%, align: center] Vulcan Performance[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 33%] Starter Bump[/TD] [TD=width: 33%, align: center] 14.0 PSI[/TD] [TD=width: 34%, align: center] 15.0 PSI[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 33%] Idling[/TD] [TD=width: 33%, align: center] 13.0 PSI[/TD] [TD=width: 34%, align: center] 14.0 PSI[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 33%] Cruise 65 MPH[/TD] [TD=width: 33%, align: center] 10.0-11.0 PSI[/TD] [TD=width: 34%, align: center] 12.5-13.0 PSI[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 33%] WOT[/TD] [TD=width: 33%, align: center] 7.5 PSI[/TD] [TD=width: 34%, align: center] 12.0 PSI[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]

Back to the OP... I would be wondering how much stress the power steering pump is putting on the hub. I would consider looking into doing a PS flush and getting the fluid changed out as well.

I tend to agree with Dorkweed... Now while your at it I would pull all 6 injectors and have them bench tested as well.

:lmao2:I just got back from Emmett, ID with the RV and shopping for a new refrigerator for the main house. Nice bright and sun for the most part and 50-55*F and clear roads. Enjoyed yarding the 31' foot trailer. Sorry you are buried in snow... We are going into a thaw period now and I'm getting ready for firewood season soon. I'm already talking with friend to get a jump start on snooping for trees before full thaw happens. Heck the truck is still hitched up...

Without reading all this... Simply put the reason why you want to run 1/2" lines isn't for performance reasons. The reason for 1/2" lines is because of volume stability. With 1/2" lines you'll only see a 2-3 PSI drop from Idle to WOT on the highway under load. Where 3/8" lines is more like 3-5 PSI drop and stock lines can be as much as 5-8 PSI drop. All them will perform just fine but the life span of the VP44 is at risk if the pressure is falling below 14 PSI. More about the VP44 requirements... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/415-bosch-vp44-injection-pump-requirements

Kind of like my ATV its a oiled foam filter. But it uses a special spray on oil that is extremely sticky. I picked up a can of it from my local Honda dealer and use it when I do my spring time maintenance. But there is a difference between a naturally aspirated 300cc motorcycle or 420cc ATV. compared to the air volume of a turbo charged Cummins Diesel. You might want to plugin in the spec to one of your spreadsheets and look at the volume difference. This is why the oiled filter work fine for little gasoline engine but not for turbo charged diesels.

So far most all performance air filters I've seen either dry media, washable, oiled, etc. They all seem to be a dirtier filter. What good is it to have a better flowing filter that flows more dirt than a slightly more restrictive filter that is way oversized for the job and doesn't pass dirt like the performance filters do...

Basic...Go back to your breaker panel and convert the water heater over to 120 VAC from a 240 VAC breaker. Make sure the breaker is proper size for the elements being used. Then at the water heater you need to be sure you feed is 120V. (Don't test this with the water heat hooked up till your sure of your wiring.) Now your going to have to double check the wiring lay out inside the water heater... But at that point I just screwed in my 1,100w elements and set my temp and kick the breaker on. Double checked again for proper voltage at the elements. DANGER! 120/240 VAC is very dangerous voltage to work with. If you not sure of what you up against I would suggest getting electrician to do the work.DISCLAIMER: I'm not responsible for any damages, house fires, or electrocution...

Most likely what I've got right now. I've got a failed driver side sensor I can physically see the damaged lead. So I would consider replacing the sensors up front if the speedometer is still functional. Here is the full article... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/23-brake-system/29-antilock-braking-system-abs

I've done this adjustment on several vehicles and had good response from the adjustment. Just do little adjustment at a time... Test and repeat. Don't get carried away with the adjustment.

Since I'm on a limited power supply I've converted my 50 gallon water heater to 110 VAC 1,100 Watt elements. Man you want to talk about hot water it still getting piping hot and uses way less power and water heater seem to last a long time too. Being the water is heated slower and not going through sudden changes of temperature so the glass liner isn't getting cracked / damaged.

Being its a 12V there isn't any way for compression gases to get back to the fuel tank. Like on the 24V since the injectors are in the top of the head and the return rail is part of the head you could have combustion gases leak back into the return rail from a bad copper shim. But this isn't possible on a 12V.

First off... Welcome to the family...Second off I need to know what you cranking fuel pressure is like. It might be the fuel pressure is just way too high during starting.

Either pay the dealer shop rate to do the test or pull them out and have them test it your choice of shops. Some guys like using rail caps and cap off one line at a time and see if the starting issue goes away. But if its more than one injector its going to be tough to test this method which return back to pulling all and bench testing.Common rail injectors are known for having a issue with building rail pressure after the injectors got wore down.

Now I'm curious what those 2 sets of rings look like? Kind of looks like a debris issue...