Mopar1973Man

Sound like its time to pull out the DVM and do some more testing like ohm testing the magnets and checking for voltage att the magnets. Dexter axles has test for checking amperage draw if I remember right.

There is a way of checking the sender to be sure you not hung up on the wall. Crawl under and loosen the collar nut. The carefully twist the sender one way and listen for the float arm to bang then back the other direction and listen again to bang again. Then measure about half the way and tighten again this should verify the arm is not trapped again the wall giving a poor reading.

Nope. same pressure as the MAP sensor or the boost bolt. Just don't have the problem of the bolt being in the way. It's a 3/4 inch pipe plug with a 3/4 to 1/2 steel bushing then a 1/2 to 1/8 bushing for the boost tubing. Just remember the 1/2 pipe plug is a coolant passage and you don't want to mess with it.

:think:Still never had any issues with either power steering or the vacuum pump yet. Must have somethng to do with the 30k mile power steering fluid changes and the Frantz Bypass filter on the engine oil. I don't use any synthetics oils in either the power steering or engine oil.

Here is my updated video on this testing... Basicallly I just diconnect the alternator on both the feild and fuse and now the system should be pure DC power.

Here is the out of the way port for the boost gauge... On my 5 speed my fill plug is on the passenger side about 1/2 way up the case and requires a allen wrench to remove the plug. The drain plug is either bottom bolt of the PTO cover in the center.

Ever since I shimmed and egged shaped the spring on my AirDog 150 pump I've been keeping good high pressures. The only thing I notice so far is I can see how cold my fuel is by how low my fuel pressure drops under load. But once the fuel warms up I'm right near 18-19 at idle and 16-17 at WOT. So I drop a 1-2 PSI roughly the colder fuel gets.

I'm just curious. what I'm actually up to is figuring out a test bed method of checking for odometer accuracy on either the truck or ScanGauge. So I'm more or less thinking out loud and keeping my notes here.

Yeah that sounds about right. Normally the hi/lo switches are run with the PCM so when there is full throttle operation or other system malfunction the PCM can block out the A/C system as well. But your method will work just as well too. As long as the main amperage draw is not routed through the hi / lo switches your good.

Odometer Accuracy I had a Search and rescue meeting tonight. On my way home I thought about how accurate my odometer is. Since I had the GPS on the dash and the ScanGauge II. I decided to clear the trip on the odometer, clear the GPS odometer and then clear the ScanGauge II odometer. Also the ScanGauge is set with a 1% offset to correct the speed to correct with the GPS. I know the distance for the test was rather short but it did uncover a odometer error on the stock cluster. The test distance was 4.95 miles exactly on the GPS. The ScanGauge II was showing 4.9 miles and the truck odometer was showing 5.0 miles. I'm going to re-run this test again on a long test on post up my findings. This was kind of one of those in the back of my head thought to do just to see what would happen. But from what I've seen so far my GPS and ScanGauge II are right on for distance but the truck is off. I'm going to try for a 100 mile trip and see what happens. -- More to come.

No problems with fan lock up. My fan doesn't lock till 205*F worth of coolant.

Not to mention the impression of the 2 valves on the piston you can barely see. I bet the bearings are toast on that piston too.

VP44 is toast. But now the cause of the VP44 failure to need to be found. I would investigate the alternator be sure its not producing AC noise because of a bad diode also the fuel pressure need to be tested and be sure its 14-20 PSI at all times. Low pressure lights are worthless because by the time that light comes on the damage is already done. Like I said above fuel pressure should be 14-20 PSI well most low pressure lights are 3-5 PSI and below 10 PSI damage is being done for for sure. So on that shopping list add a $40 dollar fuel pressure gauge to it so you never have this failure again.

One of the few reasons I live where I do...

I did the same thing about a week ago. I had day time temps about 75*F and still had the winter fronts on towing my smaller utility trailer around. No issues with coolant or IAT temps. Coolant hovered at 195*F and IAT barely crossed the 120*F but was doing really good MPG wise. Then I got the call the SAR's so when I stopped at my buddies house to pick him up I yank out the winter fronts. I knew it was going to get hairy responding to a emergency call. But I would not suggest winter fronts above 80*F I notice the EGT's cool down for the turbo is extend considerably. Not that that there excessive hot on the highway or anything like that it just it takes much longer to cool down that typical. This is the weird season for me. I start out with 28-35*F weather in the morning and can hit 70-80*F for a daytime high. Then leave here in the morning and get to New Meadows, ID proper and still see 15-20*F for a morning starting temp. What to do what to do?

Typically I use 80w-90 gear lube and a tube a silicone for the cover. I'm a open diff so I don't have all the weird problems with fluid additives and such. As for the slop I would look at the gears closely for any damage.

Ummm... Could you possibly use a 24V air horn instead without the choke point. They look almost identical.

Unusual name. Where are you calling home?Welcome to the family...

Most likely a stuck open injector(s). I've seen the same thing on thee local school bus too doing the same thing.

The tires I was thinking of the blow out factor but just the fact of picking up road debris and fling it back on you. I was wondering the same thing about the cooling system as well as the air system. I'm wondering if its a naturally aspirated because there is no intercooler either.

Holy Cow...:wow:That car is one cow power stronger today...

So now the question will it overheat again? Will the head gasket leak?

Kind of tough for a old PSG module to survive 3-4 hours of bench time then go through a flash procedure. Most all VP44 have new electronics I would assume. Kind of hard to sell his old pump wit P1688 code and unable to flash it after benching it.

Really simple to pull a fuse and measure the current across the fuse contacts. Total draw on the batteries should be less than 100 mA. Anything above that then you'll have to start separating circuits and measuing current draw to find the circuit with the phantom draw.