Mopar1973Man

Ok. Long post coming... What happens is just like you home computer when you turn on the key to your truck. The power is given to all the computers (ECM, PCM, AirBag, Anti-lock, etc.) But staying focused on the ECM when the power is given the computer reads the contents of the EPROM and loads into memory just like you PC does when you turn it on. Once the software is booted up then the software runs as designed. So during this long wait there is memory errors and the system keeps rebooting and rebooting trying to get up and running. So the first thing the software does once booted is check the IAT temp and trip ON the wait to start light. The wait to start light cannot be turned on till software is loaded from the EPROM there is no way around this. So if the on board RAM is failing throwing error it just gets longer and longer. Here is what's inside the ECM case. Processor, RAM EPROM, etc... This is the connector to the 50 pin connector and decoding the sensor input.

That does sound like your on the right track. You could rebuild it yourself. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/33-brake-system/79-brake-hydrobooster-rebuild

Something is wrong here... Here is what I found looking up the Ultima 05-0321 Alternator and here is the back side. Some has chopped up your alternator pure and simple. From... http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/ULT0/050321/01468.oap?year=2001&make=Dodge&model=Ram%2B2500&vi=1400072&ck=Search_01468_1400072_-1&pt=01468&ppt=C0330

I'd like to see what you got if you have some time to whip the tire and rotor off. Wanna learn what you got...

As long as you chained up and in 4WD I see then you can use the EB. But I typically turn it off in the snow and such. As for your 2 pictures. Make sure when you do thaw out that you rinse the truck off with fresh water ASAP. as long and you keep the truck rinsed down good and remove all the mud and grime the salt won't eat the body and start the rusting.

Right here in the bearing.

A sample of EB power...:woot:Using a exhaust brake to come to a stop. 7% Grade. Hauling 2+ Cord of firewood down a forestry road.

ECM (driver side of the block) doesn't control the alternator... :nono:PCM (passenger side firewall) does that...

I typically don't use either site or listing I pull out the owners manual which typically has the right answers...Also with trailer Dry Weight is meaningless. All weights are scaled weights or GCWR or GVWR. Never use or talk about Dry Weight. Dry weight is used for the shipping industry to ship the trailer from manufacture to dealer that all.Now talk to CajFlynn about this and you'll see a different answer all together.

Interesting...But typically I inspect my wiring and ground when I'm crawling around the truck. Sometimes during oil changes or other maintenance I inspect these little thing and check to be sure ground strap are not broken or damaged. There is a reason why the manufacture put these in place. I've so many time where some toss a ground strap in the trash to just removes it thinking the battery cable are good enough and find out it causes all kinds of weird issues.

Is it possible you got a collapsed brake hose?

Dang the luck...I just lost a ABS sensor on my truck its the front driver sensor for sure the weather jacket is broke open and the inner wire is exposed. So sad but true I need to find a ABS sensor for my rig. Does anyone out there have leads on a cheap ABS sensors or maybe have salvaged a set of them?

Is this 4 wheel drums?

I will admit that Pac-Brake is my choice for you application but there is a few limitations in how low it will stay locked up and give function. From what I found out locally Pac-Brake only works in 3rd and 4th gears of a automatic. So now it would require some valve body mods and such to get 2nd gear to lock up.As for a manual I would gladly do a Jacobs Brake OEM exhaust brake again. When you can use all the way to 1st gear its awesome.

Correct...

Still its a all wheel ABS system. This kickback is because a single front sensor is off most likely slower and the ABS module is wanting to prevent lockup so the pump fights you till it errors out and trips the light. So I would suggest that you replace both front sensors. Because you not complaining of speedometer issues so I'm going to assume its one front sensor.

Wait to start delay is caused by a internal memory errors and having a hard time booting software during key on. So it basically telling you that it ready to fail.

The title of the thread is you are the target... I can see something like this in New York city or Los Angeles but little rural town like my Riggins, ID or ISX's little slice of Missouri... I really doubt some of this stuff. You got scores and scores of military that refuse to shoot US citizens.

All I can tell you is yes you bumper will be lighter than steel. But it will most likely cost more that steel.I'm really curious what you built tho...

I always start with 2 things. 1. Fuel pressure (Idle and WOT at highway speed)2. Error codes

I'd like to see pictures of this. Another thought it since its copper you could have it plated or chromed...

I'd shy away from the electric valves. I rather like to have the choice of controlling the valve. We've got one water tender in the fire dept with one and works really good at holding 30,000 pound water tender on a slope. Yes we still use wheel *****.

Kind of like my hose clamp in the turbo...

Be aware the PacBrake is a bit different than the manual. I've got a local that got one and is not very happen because it only works in the upper gear while locked up. So some trans work mine need to be done to gain the lower gears.

If he sends me a email I will send him a picture of the headlight wiring and why its going to be a pain for him...