Mopar1973Man

Remember this is between uV (micro-volts) and mV (millivolts). I really doubt you'll be able to set it up and do it right...

Re-check the fuse with ohm meter (DVM) I've found several fuses that are cracked and not blown...

Good point... I forgot about that...:banghead: Maybe that why mine are on the axles after all.

I've done a bit of Google searches and turned up all kinds of documents and such but nothing exactly as for testing with a ohm meter really. One guy mentions that a lighted candle is roughly 800 degrees (Celsius I think) and should produce 3.2 mV from the terminals (open load).

I would consider it... But I typically use the bumper there for a step to crawl in the bed of the truck.

Mopar NV4500 fluid here (coming up on 200K miles!)

This was sent to me by another member of the site in a email mail. Very nice story and makes a point.DOES GOD EXIST? This is one of the best explanations on the nature of God that I have ever seen... A man went to a barbershop to have his hair cut and his beard trimmed. As the barber began to work, they began to have a good conversation.They talked about so many things and various subjects.When they eventually touched on the subject of God, the barber said: 'I don't believe that God exists.' 'Why do you say that?' asked the customer.'Well, you just have to go out in the street to realize that God doesn't exist.Tell me, if God exists, would there be so many sick people? Would there be abandoned children?I can't imagine a loving God who would allow all of these things.'The customer thought for a moment, but didn't respond because he didn't want to start an argument. The barber finished his job and the customer left the shop.Just after he left the barbershop, he saw a man in the street with long, stringy, dirty hair and an untrimmed beard.He looked dirty and unkempt. The customer turned back and entered the barbershop again and he said to the barber:'You know what? Barbers do not exist.' 'How can you say that?' asked the surprised barber. 'I am here, and I am a barber. And I just worked on you!''No!' the customer exclaimed. 'Barbers don't exist because if they did, there would be no people with dirty long hair and untrimmed beards, like that man outside.''Ah, but barbers DO exist! That's what happens when people do not come to me.''Exactly!' affirmed the customer. 'That's the point! God, too, DOES exist! That's what happens when people do not go to Him and don't look to Him for help. That's why there's so much pain and suffering in the world.'If you think God exists, send this to other people---If you think God does not exist, delete it! BE BLESSED & BE A BLESSING TO OTHERS! :pray:I really liked this, I hope you share it.........Life without God is like an unsharpened pencil.....There's no point to it.

Sounds like the XLT is giving you the code. Internally screwed up on the boost fooling circuit. As for the battery voltage you look like you got some rotten cables if the voltage is wandering that wide from one side to the other. Might consider this test... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/136-voltage-drop-testing-of-wiring-and-feed-cables As for ether don't use it... Your taking a risk of the grid heater possibly igniting it in the manifold and cause a explosion. If you need to use it make sure to unhook the grid heater lead from the battery so the grid heater will not come on.

Stepping up on my soap box... I have a hard time with EPA emission testing. Back in the day when I lived in California I had to smog my 73 Dodge Charger every year for registration. Every year I would put everything back to stock layout, vacuum lines, etc. Car ran terrible, MPG's went down, performance went down, but it would barely pass testing. :banghead: One day I got crazy and put all my mods back on the car and tuned it my way and got a hold of friend that worked the testing shop. Had him re-run the test without any smog equipment on the car and tuned my way. Guess what?! It past with flying colors. MPG's where better and so way the performance. What I done made a gasket for the EGR without the holes, disconnected the OSAC valve on the firewall (vacuum adv) and hooked the vacuum advance to ported vacuum on the carb, changed the distributor weights for fast timing advancement, reset the preload spring in the vacuum advance diaphragm, set the timing to 10* BTDC, etc. So what this proved to me is... That as long as the vehicle is running with good economy (MPG's) then your emissions should be low. Ok. So now to the diesel world. Everyone knows what I've got under the hood. Yes my setup can and will smoke when you work the truck. But still and all a bit of soot means nothing because I don't drive around choking out black smoke for miles but maybe for a second or two as I'm rowing gears and towing. I can keep 20+ MPG most of the time so I would gamble to say my truck most likely have very little emissions (NOx, etc.) As for soot yeah I've got a bit but if I'm using less fuel then the emissions should be less too. Off my soap box now...

Sorry I'm late to the party... :banghead:Ok I can give you this much. You can disconnect most all sensor on the engine and it still start and run without them. ECT, APPS, MAP, IAT, and I think that its... As for your fuel system what is your fuel pressure when you bump the starter? Do you happen to have a fuel pressure gauge?

http://gosperformance.com/shop/ TH Racing (vendor on the site here) Diesel Auto Power another vendor here on the site) - doubtful? Most all performance diesel shops have stuff laying around...

Here you go a older post of it... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/1922-Temp-Gauge

Just like on the Cummins I just flush with water... Nothing more. Put in a fresh thermostat and fresh coolant 50/50 mixture.

You could call around some of the vendor you might find a used exhaust housing from when people upgrade turbo parts. Exhaust housing can be replace as a separate part. That should save some money...

Are both of you (OP and Dripley) using signal amplifiers for the gauges? If so that might be what's wrong.

Face of the radiator filled with bugs and plugged up?

As you see in the pic below I've got rust on parts but nothing like Dobbienut... Yes Idaho uses plenty of salt and Mag-Cloride for the roads so I got a weekly wash schedule for my truck so I can keep the oxidation down as much as possible. Geez... That is gone... You'll be looking for parts at a wrecking yard.

Next time the torque converter lock and unlock problem pops up try the removing the alternator fuse.

Dang... I gather this is rust damage right? :shrug:Pics!!!

Smart idea!

LMC truck?

...so that the 1/4 turn before it breaks loose it goes SNAP!

Water is like electricity it want to find the easiest path without restrictions. Since you added a extra hose from the supply to the return line it like shorting across positive and negative terminals. In theory but time will tell this winter...

I kind of wonder what the heater performance in the dead of winter will be like now? Being that the heater core is technically bypassed.