Mopar1973Man

Like for me I might let it idle for enough temp to bring coolant temp up to 80-100*F and then leave by that time everything in the engine is well lubed up and the oil is starting to thin down a bit and more than safe to drive. By 140-160*F you can cut loose and kick that pig...

As for seals you could replace that seal on the cover if you can get one... I would ask TH Racing (one of vendors) he might have an idea on where to get the seals.As for the exhaust manifold rather common on truck that have seen some pretty hot temps. I would consider doing a compression test t verify the cylinder health. If that can't be done you could do a blow by test but that kind of general sum test of all blow by.

War Eagle is pretty close to right with the document... :smart:At least the older 70's Dodge boxes where very close to the Chevy doc... As a matter of fact I just done a modified 70's Dodge gear box for a older 1972 Ford truck...

Might check out this thread I started a while back... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/4767-WTB-Fold-Out-Towing-Mirrors-(Heated-amp-Electric-Adjustable)

Welcome to the family...

What?! 4WD and Tire Chains are for wussies... We get 4-5 foot of snow every year in New Meadows, ID I travel that road all the time with just 2WD and no chains. The only time I use 4WD is when I'm stuck or climbing grades. When the grade is ove the typical 7% then I chain up. because its just to easy to start slipping and sliding around. Oh as for the Jeep its still for sale...

Say what? http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&id=17&Itemid=118 Or... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2122-Mopar1973Man-2002-Dodge-Cummins http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2123-Mopar1973Man-1996-Dodge-Ram How many copies do I need? Taking about turkeys... Geez...

Might ohm out the wiring to be sure the mirror heaters actually failed or is it a wiring fault in the doors. Like Wild and Free mentions about the flexing of the wires in the door might break them too.

You can try it... I've heard of plenty of people use them...

Gives new meaning to little 4 bangers don't it...

What happened? (I truely feel for you)..

Con is that if you install a leveling kit the nose will be high under load iether in the bed and/or trailer. Con is there is more frontal wind drag. Pro is the truck look level unloaded.

Don't mess with the best... Because the best don't mess! http-~~-//youtu.be/Le6aCV_CRvQ Check it out... http://speeddemon.us/engine.html

Long definitions... P0382 Errror Code http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2582-P0382-Intake-Air-Heater-Relay-2-Control-Circuit P1693 Errror Code http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2631-P1693-DTC-Detected-in-PCM-ECM-or-DTC-Detected-in-ECM

Mine is level every time I'm using my truck... Just load it up...

I'm the same way... Single, never married, no kids...

I'm also a 0-35 PSI gauge...

Well said Dripley...

You might want to check you valve lash... Something is wrong here even might is rock solid... This is my fuel pressure video but you'll clearly see the boost gauge on top. No comments about sucking a air bubble. I was low on fuel when I did the video. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=grl72Up-8T0

I get a good laugh from you Rogan... Thanks...But the simple thing is with any of the Cummins line you can invest some serious money and make it bulletproof (so to speak). But Question you got to ask is how much money are you will to lay down to make it bulletproof?ISX does bring up a good point of the old 12V's and there ability to limp home with next to nothing. But once again it about being aware of your vehicle I don't care if its a 12V, 24V or CR truck each one has its sour points (as pointed out). But in any of the vehicle models it all about being aware of your vehicle and keeping the maintenance up. Like ISX point out you notice a loss of power and performance over time. Well that true with any of the Cummins models (12V, 24V, CR, Etc.) but most people tend to shrug it off to poor fuel, winterized fuel, bad hair day, wifes in a bad mood, etc. Instead of actually looking into the issue.Like on the CR engine I see more people rebuilding engines from failed injectors. Like on the 24V engine I see more VP44 failed from no fuel pressure gauge, crappy fuel, and crappy fuel filters.!2V's well they are nearly bulletproof but there is a lack of user adjustablity with the engine. Like timing a P7100 or a VE pump requires special tools to do it properly. Yes. I know ISX has a fallback plan to get stock timing. 12V's tend to do much better in the MPG department compared to any other series of engine with 6.7L being the worse in MPG's from all the smog equiptment. Now a person like ISX is knowledgable and he's very capable of doing most anything to his truck and keep it going. But from a Common Joe aspect I tend to try and keep it simple and easy.

Well your suppose to use caulking tape for it but... Me I've been using clear silicone around all the joints and seams of my RV. It got a fiberglass body and silicone seems to adhere just fine to it. The only trouble with silicone what ever color it tend to hold on to road dust rather well making it stand out more but after washing it the RV it tend to disappear again...

That's a start...

I don't know...But I've seen this... http://youtu.be/PeoTlfnkNZQ

Yes... The allen screw with lock nut. Don't over adjust it will cause the steering to bind up in the center... Do it a little at a time and test drive.