Mopar1973Man

Well sorry about that but I saw you name on the caller ID I figured I'd let you talk to me a for a little bit before I left the house... I'm also running 8/18 setting too and saw about a 3 MPG gain hauling 16,000# GCW weight. I can't speak for the EGT's because of my stock injectors it was much higher that typical that the RV275 hence why I got busy fixing the RV's again... So I'm getting itchy to haul the TT again and see what it will do...

WalMart Super Tech Unverisal Outboard 2 Cycle Oil - ~$11At WalMart...

Actually 96 was the tranition year to OBDII... And yes Mom's 96 does the blink count thing too and its also OBDII... All OBDII have a standard port like what in your Cummins But the OBDI is non-standard and requires all kind of weird adpaters to hook up.

I'm right about 800-900*F on flat ground with 16K# (GCW) running 55-60 MPH in the windy roads of Idaho..

OBDII code reader...

Same here...

Let's say straight piped 3" is doing just fine for me. I can avg 21-22 MPG and haul my travel trailer without any problems with EGT's or anything else. So I've not really seen a really good reason to jump to even 4" yet. If my EGT's are in check nad MPG's are up why mess up a good thing right??

Stop by a WalMart and pick up a stereo adapter kit (wiring plugs) and the dash adapter and just wire it in. Took me a little over 1 hour to solder ans shrink tube the wires on the adapter to the radio and then just plug it in. Not hard at all.

What's your brake fluid look like? Brake fluid should be a light honey color when in good condition but as it ages it darkens. Brake fluid needs to be changed every 30K miles. Brake fluid is also hydroscopic in other works absorbs moisture from the air so as brake fliud ages it gains water but this is a problem because now the boiling point of brake fluid falls. What's your power steering fluid look like? Same here the power steering fluid should also be a honey color too but it will darken as it ages too. It needs to be changed at 30K miles.Just a few basics. But it does sound like there is either air or contaminated fluid in the system.

Here you go... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/dealers/dealers.htm Then... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/forums/67-Vendors-amp-Dealers

Is there a way to sandwich some material together? Aluminum or such using a screw, bolts, or pop rivets?

Wel at least someone found a way to fix it... The thread I read was some trying to repair the switch...

There was a thread long ago on CF.com about this and the only way to fix it was to replace the entire overhead console. There is no owner replaceable parts up there...

Hopefully CajFlynn shows up... He's a pro to what it takes to tow with a Automatic...

Before the injector is a Edge Filter too so imagine pushing though the edge filter and then the injector...

If the battery voltage was below 12.0 Volts for any kind of extended period most likely the batteries might not charge up properly. So even if you did get them to charge I would load test them to see if they are any good. Also find out how much capacity was lost.

Once a battery was left dead for a extended period they are most likely dead for sure.. Sorry...

Interesting idea...

Yeap I do... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/images/2ndgen24v/bhaf/BHAF_Template.doc

Just dampen with engine oil and they will never corrode or oxidize which happens to be the black coating you saw on the positive cable.

At least all the 2 1/2 ton military truck I've driven rthe wipers ran on compressed air.

I like the ideas of the guys to just create a extension cable to just plug into the bumper socket and route back for the slide in camper.

Gotta Love this group...

Sure sign of failed brushes an/or contacts...

DPF filter and regen mode...