Mopar1973Man

Right from the book... 1. Install the wheel speed sensor in the hub bearing if equipped.2. Position the rotor on the hub/bearing.3. Press the wheel studs/hub extension studs through the back side of the rotor and through the hub bearingflange.4. Apply a liberal quantity of anti-seize compound to the splines of the front drive shaft.5. Insert the two rearmost, top and bottom rotor hub bolts in the steering knuckle. Insert the bolts through the back side of the knuckle so they extend out the front face as shown.6. Position the hub spacer and brake shield on bolts just installed in knuckle.7. Align the rotor hub with the drive shaft and start the shaft into the rotor hub splines.8. Align the bolt holes in the hub bearing flange with the bolts installed in the knuckle. Then thread the boltsinto the bearing flange far enough to hold the assembly in place.9. Install the remaining bolts. Tighten the hub/bearing bolts to 166 N.m (122 ft. lbs.)10. Install the washer and hub nut and tighten to 245 N.m (180 ft. lbs.).11. Install a new cotter pin in the hub nut. Tighten the nut as needed to align the cotter pin hole in the shaft with the opening in nut.12. Install the brake caliper. Refer to DISC - 2500 & 3500 .13. Install the sensor wire to the steering knuckle and frame and if equipped. Connect the wheel speed sensorwire under the hood.14. Install the wheel and tire assemblies.15. Remove the support and lower the vehicle.16. Apply the brakes several times to seat the brake shoes and caliper piston. DO NOT move the vehicle untila firm brake pedal is obtained.

4 mounting bolts 122 ft/lbs1 drive axle nut (4WD) 180 ft/lbs

Southbend Con OFE will hold it...

Hence why a filter minder was installed in the stock filter box to measure the level of vacuum on the filter in inches of water column not inches of mercury.

Carry my big socket and wrench set and a spare fuel filter that's all...

Here is another good video on how a turbo functions...

I've been a Steward Warner fan from the 80's really when it came to gauge for muscle cars and such...

Like this...

Once again what you fuel pressure like idle pressure and WOT at highway speed?

Expanding on Pepsi post... He got a CCD Network propblem after the transmission was installed if you turn on the A/C or anyother HVAC setting the speedometer drop to zero and the odometer displays NO BUS and check engine light is tripped. But turn off the HVAC and everything returns to normal. I'm assuming its a ground issue...

Sound like you got it pretty well figured out now!

There is a electrical drain on it for sure. The easiest way to spot it would be pull on fuse at a time and using a DVM (Digital Volt Meter) on Amperage setting probe each fuse socket and see how much power draw is in each fuse. With the truck off it should be very small amount of power draw but it all should be milliamps...

Be careful with those kinds of chargers. I've seen a few time at the local fire dept where they use the same kind of chargers. I've seen these little chargers dry out batteries... Since the charger can't sense the battery temperature and adjust accordingly it can turn the battery overly warm and gassy. Just make sure to check the battery electrolyte levels on a set schedule and pay attention to batteries that are losing more water than typical or batteries that are overly warm.

The man you need to talk to is CajFlynn on the site here... He's the long haul guru...

Here you go... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=41:bhaf-big-honkin-air-filter&catid=24&Itemid=107

Here you go... 1620 CCA worth of fresh power!

Should peel that label off and stick your filter minder there...My first filter than ran 7 years and 130K miles.Then the location of the filter minder...The the heat shield I used backing nuts to pick up the filter above the A/C line a bit more. Also the studs are flush with the top of the nuts and don't touch the filter...

Understandable... It takes a special kind of person to live here thats for sure...

I found this little video and might be educational to some of you...

Lift pump is junk... Time to replace it...Minimum pressure is 10 PSISuggested Minimum is 14 PSI for longevity reasons.Maximum (Undocumented) pressure is 20 PSI.Normal pressure fall from idle to WOT at highway speed 2-3 PSIMax Pressure fall from idle to WOT at highway speed is 5 PSIHere is a quick video I did last summer... No comments about sucking a air bubble...

At the head... Crack 1,3,4 and then crack the engine till fuel spray is seen. Dribbling on the manifold doesn't count... Remember that Bosch VP44 injection pump can produce at minimum of 4,500 PSI at idle and upwards of 20,000 PSI at WOT. But the Bosch VP44 injection pump can't pump air very well so hence the engine won't start.

So now try the repiming the fuel system...

The lift pump can run a extra 5-10 seconds after the key is shut off. So if it running beyond 30-60 seconds then the ECM is screwy...

Well as for the lift pump it might be slipping the rotor head or the fuel regulator internally is stuck open. So you have to weigh that into your diagnosis.Double check to make sure no wires and pinched during the transmission work.