Mopar1973Man

Actually it should be open by 20 PSI. You'd be surprised how fast that opens and how like it actually moves...

Your welcome I'm glad we got you running again...But it seem the electrical problems are now starting to hit these truck after 10-11 years of ago.. Might be a good time to cram dielectric grease in all the sockets again.

Would any of you guys and gals be willing to give aid to a fellow forum owner? RamForum.com can use some information and tales from you guys and gals. Their diesel database is rather empty and its really hard to attract anyone to visit a forum if the forum areas are empty. So I'm going to be aiding RamForums.com and getting them jump started with information. Is there any other people willing to jump in with me? I got to admit after wondering through their site they have a huge wealth of Gasoline power Ram information... So come follow me and give them a hand gang... www.ramforum.com http://www.ramforum.com/f65/

Sooner or later you'll run into FlagmanRuss with his Dodge Cirrus car that has had a few problems...

Hey Gang...I got to introduce Ramhunter9. He's one of the owners of RamForum.com. His site has a pile of information for Gasoline Powered Dodge Ram's so fo any of you guys and gals that need a hand with your gasoline powered Dodge I'm sure they go someone that can help...

Well that a old school draw straw for ya... I know better and still did it... Oh Well... But if you notice I drop the throttle quickly and let it build again then hammer down again... I'm not to worried I'm running 2 cycle oil... I normally drive with a light foot and concerve fuel... This is not a good example of this...

I've got a AD150 and still do better... How is that??? :shrug:17.5 @ idle14.5 - 15.0 @ WOT to 75 MPH

Ahh... I see your sneaking around... Welcome to the group...

I run a Edge Comp with the VP44 tapped and been getting about 21-22 MPG empty and 12-13 MPG towing my Jayco Eagle TT. I leave the Edge Comp on 5x5 and tow even on the highest settings without problems. I just monitor EGT's climbing high and adjust speed accordly to the EGT's... 6% grade I go over without even slowing down much 60 MPH and 1,100*F EGT's.Here is a sample of my MPG's on flat ground...

Basically what most of all the step do is verify there is no broken or corroded wires... Then it verify there are not shorted wires to ground or power. I typically hit every step and just check each step to see if it passes or fails it... It might give more clues.

I went through 3 of them in about a 1.5 year time... (35K miles)

Just because you idle pressure is fine doesn't mean your WOT pressure is good too... From another member of the site... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=NB8o24rw1eU So when testing fuel pressure you need 2 number idle and WOT pressure. Because as you just seen you can have a great 19 PSI and at WOT fall to ZERO and be ruining a VP44 in very little time...

I'm looking for answers to steps...2,3,5,6,8,9,10,11,12Step 4 you got a voltage when it should resistance (ohm value).Then I can tell if its a wiring issue, APPS issue or ECM problem...

Well you could use a tapped banjo bolt and hook up the gauge... That's about it... Mechanical gauge tend to last much longer life span wise over electric gauges which tend to have sender fail over time. With any fuel system it going to most likely replace all the plumbing. But if you just trying to save a few nickles you could buy a big line kit from Vulcan performance and then get a cheaper lift pump like AirTex or simular. But the problem is the cheaper pump typically have a limited warranty. But its still a option. As for gauges I personal prefer the mechanic gauges over electronic gauges. Mechanical gauge react instantly to changes like a sticking regulator valve will show up on a mechanical gauge with sudden drp and rises kind of flicking movement but a digital gauges tend to be late and slow to update. Electric gauge might do really good too but they tend to loose there accuracy over time as the rheostat sender wears out.

Sure can... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=29:antilock-braking-system-abs&catid=23&Itemid=107 Now double check your fuses with a ohm meter I've found fuse that have cracked and never blown out. What happens as a load is place on the fuse it will heat up and seperate and open circuit then you get the lights then the fuse cools and connects again and light go out...

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2566-P0223-Idle-Validation-Signals-Both-High-(Above-5-Volts) Monitor & Set Conditions Idle validation signals are monitored when ignition is on and engine is running. DTC P0222 may be stored if Engine Control Module (ECM) senses no voltage signal or the same voltage from Idle Validation Switch (IVS) No. 1 and IVS No. 2. DTC P0223 may be stored if ECM senses the same voltage from IVS No. 1 and IVS No. 2. [*]Accelerator Pedal Position Switch (APPS) Idle Validation Switch (IVS) No. 2 Harness Short To Ground [*] APPS IVS No. 2 Shorted To APPS Return Circuit [*] APPS IVS No. 2 Shorted To APPS Sensor Ground [*] IVS No. 2 Open Between APPS And ECM Harness Connectors [*] APPS IVS No. 1 Shorted To APPS Sensor Ground [*] APPS IVS No. 1 Shorted To APPS Return Circuit [*] APPS IVS No. 1 Harness Short To Ground [*] IVS No. 1 Open Between APPS And ECM Harness Connectors [*] IVS No. 1 Circuit Open [*] ECM 1. Turn ignition off. Disconnect APPS harness connector. APPS is located on bracket, just above fuel injection pump. Check for poor connection/terminal contact at APPS harness connector. Repair as necessary. Start engine and allow engine to idle. Using DVOM, measure voltage between ground and terminal No. 6 (Brown/Orange wire) on APPS connector. This is the IVS No. 1 circuit. If voltage is greater than 4.5 volts, go to next step. If voltage is 5.5 volts or less, go to step 8 . 2. With engine idling, using DVOM, measure voltage between ground and terminal No. 2 (Light Green/Dark Blue wire) on APPS harness connector. This is the IVS No. 2 circuit. If voltage is 4.5 volts or less, go to next step. If voltage is greater than 4.5 volts, test is complete. ???? So what did you get? 3. Turn ignition off. Check for continuity between ground and terminal No. 2 (Light Green/Dark Blue wire) on APPS harness connector. If continuity exists, go to next step. If continuity does not exist, go to step 7 . ???? So what did you get? 4. Ensure ignition is off and APPS harness connector is still disconnected. Disconnect ECM harness connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50- pin connector. Check for continuity between ground and terminal No. 2 (Light Green/Dark Blue wire) on APPS harness connector. If continuity exists, repair short to ground in Light Green/Dark Blue wire between APPS and ECM. If continuity does not exist, go to next step. Hua??? This should be a Ohm value??? 5. Ensure ignition is off. Ensure APPS harness connector and ECM harness connector are still disconnected. Check for continuity between terminal No. 2 (Light Green/Dark Blue wire) and terminal No. 4 (Black/Yellow wire) on APPS harness connector. If continuity exists, repair short between Light Green/Dark Blue wire and Black/Yellow wire. If continuity does not exist, go to next step. ???? So what did you get? 6. Ensure APPS harness connector and ECM harness connector are still disconnected. Check for continuity between terminal No. 2 (Light Green/Dark Blue wire) and terminal No. 1 (Black/Light Blue wire) on APPS harness connector. If continuity exists, repair short between Light Green/Dark Blue wire and Black/Light Blue wire. If continuity does not exist, replace and program the ECM. See appropriate REMOVAL, OVERHAUL & INSTALLATION article. ???? So what did you get? 7. Ensure ignition is off and APPS harness connector is still disconnected. Disconnect ECM harness connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50- pin connector. Check continuity of Light Green/Dark Blue wire between terminal No. 2 on APPS harness connector and terminal No. 16 on ECM harness connector. If continuity exists, test is complete. If continuity does not exist, repair open in Light Green/Dark Blue wire between APPS and ECM. Means the wire between the APPS and the ECM are good! 8. Turn ignition off. Ensure APPS harness connector is still disconnected. Check for continuity between ground and terminal No. 6 (Brown/Orange wire) on APPS harness connector. If continuity exists, go to next step. If continuity does not exist, go to step 12 . ???? So what did you get? 9. Ensure ignition is off and APPS harness connector is still disconnected. Disconnect ECM harness connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50- pin connector. Check for poor connection/terminal contact at ECM harness connector. Check for continuity between terminal No. 6 (Brown/Orange wire) and terminal No. 1 (Black/Light Blue wire) on APPS harness connector. If continuity exists, repair short between Brown/Orange wire and Black/Light Blue wire. If continuity does not exist, go to next step. ???? So what did you get? 10. Ensure APPS harness connector and ECM harness connector are still disconnected. Check for continuity between terminal No. 6 (Brown/Orange wire) and terminal No. 4 (Black/Yellow wire) on APPS harness connector. If continuity exists, repair short between Brown/Orange wire and Black/Yellow wire. If continuity does not exist, go to next step. ???? So what did you get? 11. Ensure APPS harness connector and ECM harness connector are still disconnected. Check for continuity between ground and terminal No. 6 (Brown/Orange wire) on APPS harness connector. If continuity exists, repair short to ground in Brown/Orange wire. If continuity does not exist, test is complete. ???? So what did you get? 12. Ensure ignition is off and APPS harness connector is still disconnected. Disconnect ECM harness connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50- pin connector. Check for poor connection/terminal contact at ECM harness connector. Repair as necessary. Check Brown/Orange wire for continuity between terminal No. 6 on APPS harness connector and terminal No. 1 on ECM harness connector. If continuity exists, test is complete. If continuity does not exist, repair open in Brown/Orange wire between APPS and ECM. ???? So what did you get?

The only way I know to test them is go to a dealer and have a leak down test done... Or pull them out and and pop test them. Either way you looking to see if the injector leaks before the signal to fire.

I think Wild & Free might be able to tell ya some info...

I tend to think you problem is much deeper than just a grid heater... Because right now I'm seeing moring temps as low as 48*F here in Idaho and I have no grid heater at all it completely disabled. Being the WTS light is not coming on I got feel ing its more of ECM issue...I will continue to leave my grid heater disabled till 32*F and then re-enable them again...

Well as for the AirDog line I've been seeing more and more problems concerning the plumbing issues. It gives you only one place to mount the pump because all the fitting are already crimped to the hoses and already pre-measured for a certain route. New Style fittings... Old school fittings... Then if I wanted to move the pump to a new location I can because the push-loc fitting allow me to design it any way I wish where with crimp & quick connects you can not you forced to only there setup. Like a local rancher out here got smart long ago and added a pre-filter before the stock lift pump. So when the stock pump died I told him to get a Raptor. What a mess... We ended up chopping up the entire hose setup buying more fitting because the location of the pump was in a bad spot being he use the truck off road. THen adding the prefilter to the plumbing, then adding a fuel pressure gauge on top... :banghead: After than experience it left a very bad taste in my mouth... Now from what I understand FASS kept the JIC & Push-loc fitting in there system they do cost a bit more but its worth it...

Being I just put 187K miles on my stock brake pads... All Exhaust brake...

Hopefully this works for ya...

Way low... :stuned:You and Dorkweed need to get together and talk a bit... He's getting at least 18-19 in the Mighty Whitey...

First off I don't suggest locating the fuel pressure gauge on the steering column if the gauge is going to be direct plumbed. (Safety issue) As for fuel plumbing... You can go to NAPA and pick up Polyon air brake line and it only 57 cents a foot. While your there pick up a needle valve to dampen the water hammer pulses. Part number (WH6820) cost about $8 bucks. Nice part is if there is any problem just shut the valve. But typically the vavle is barely crack open so if there was a problem it would most likely just drip. As with the Raptor fuel system you will not have a banjo fitting. You'll have to drop over to VulcanPerformance and either pick up a push loc tee like what I'm using or tapped JIC elbow. All of Raptor's plumbing is quick connect and there is no place to add fuel pressure gauge in the system. Not to mention the Raptor kit doesn't replace the last piece of line between the fiter and the VP44 which if you don't replace you'll complain of wild pressure swings because of the restriction of flow (banjos and the small line diameter).