Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
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little help please
It might be a good idea to install a prefilter before the walbro to protect it from tank debris.
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No air from blower
Might be the evaporator is plugged up with road dust. http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcS0dhysP3h9h849z4j-OkNE_XjZBolTW1r0Jy05EOszER6ptWZ3 Its a weakend project to remove the HVAC case... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=ghDbhJDBvkc
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150,000 Mile Maintenance
Make sure to use synthetic air (Nitrogen)
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? pin flasher
I've never heard of anyone needing one yet? What's happening to your current ones?
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Anybody Really Know the Answer
I tend to agree with CajFlynn because there is lots and lots of VP44 out there with over 200K... Like my VP44 is just a stock SO pump I've got 140K miles on it and still going... If heat was a issue we all would be dropping like flies...Like next time look at the specs of a laptop... A laptop can be stored in some pretty extreme temps like 158*F without a problem. But the actual operation requires a much lower temperature. Which once again with a good fuel pump the heat will be pull away very quickly. How about the ECM that is hang righ on the block next to 190*F coolant jacket? Hmmm... That doesn't even get a good breeze or cooling fuel...
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Recommendations on the best injector for my 1989 4bt
Mike, I don't have an exhaust gas pyrometer in the manifold, but do have a boost gauge in the passenger compartment. Would your question be partially founded on the concern that my EGTs might already be a little high? It's probable that I'd need to remove the turbo and maybe even the exhaust manifold in order to install the thermocouple ... correct? Oh and you possess a '73 Charger? Now that's a body style that I'd worship righ up there with the likes of Christie Brinkley and Pamala Anderson! As for the EGT's it would be a smart idea because the sole fact your change the amount of fuel and of course as you increase fuel the temps do it. As for install you should be able to do it without removal. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/gauges/gauges.htm As for the Charger... Yeap it sitting out in the yard with a 383 CID and 727 Trans...
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AirDog PSI
Yeap there right... Your fine... Enjoy life... :thumb1:Give it a bit of time things will settle down maybe so air bubbles trapped... worse case you got a air leak but the pressure looks good.
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No Tach gauge.
I would check the error codes but I'm going to guess its the crank sensor back behind the starter.
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Replaced slave cylinder, now won't start.
First off you going to have to pull the whole system out. Here is how to bleed it... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/clutch-hyd/clutch-hyd.htm Then leave the plastic tabs back on it when you install it. The pin will tear loose when you first apply the clutch.
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Recommendations on the best injector for my 1989 4bt
If I had a spare Cummins I would stick in my 73 Charger...
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Odd no start
Lift pump is directly controlled by the ECM. (No relay) The injection pump (VP44) is controlled by the fuel pump relay in the PDC. As for the ASD relay I'm not exactly sure what that controls since it hooked up on the PCM and not the ECM. ASD as far as I can see in all the wiring diagrams has no connection to the ECM and should not effect it. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/wiring/wiring.htm
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150,000 Mile Maintenance
AH64ID is right I change those 2 fluid yearly. (Brake and Power Steering)
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little help please
New lift pump is dead too... Too low in fuel pressure and the engine not even running... You should see about 14-15 PSI on a starter bump with a fresh lift pump.Did you try to reprime the system?
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Recommendations on the best injector for my 1989 4bt
Hmmm... Do you have pyrometer gauge and boost gauge present in the cab? I would be sure to have gauge first thing before even thinking about upgrading fuel system.
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Anybody Really Know the Answer
As long as your fuel pressure is above 14 PSI you good the fuel flowing passed the electronics will be kept cooled. Remember my Edge Comp is tapped and my Edge Comp is wide open on 5x5... 140K miles and still going...
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I feel like Tudor the Turtle
Truck should run regardless of the APPS sensor it could be completely unhooked and it should still run... The up and down surge is the part that bugs me it could be a fuel pressure problem, sensor or a bad VP44...
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little help please
Lift pump is dead... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/lift-pump-diag/lift-pump-diag.htm 10. Measure the amount of fuel in the container after the pump shuts off. If the amount of fuel in the container is GREATER than 1.33 liters (45 fluid ounces) and the fuel is bubble free, then the low-pressure fuel system is OK, the cause of engine performance problem lies elsewhere. No further testing of the low pressure fuel system Is required. If the amount of fuel in the container is LESS than 1.33 liters (45 fluid ounces), proceed to step 11.
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Needed: Jeep Grand Cherokee Instrument cluster wiring diagram
You be surprised at how much stuff I got here stored up...:stuned:1.5 TB drive full of goodies...
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I feel like Tudor the Turtle
Error codes?Fuel pressure?
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Smokey Boulder Camp Trip
Here you go gang...
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Needed: Jeep Grand Cherokee Instrument cluster wiring diagram
Ok... Got ya...
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Needed: Jeep Grand Cherokee Instrument cluster wiring diagram
Ummm... It would help to have some make/model/year information... :shrug:From what I can find really quick and guessing at year and model I see that its CCD network feed.
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little help please
[*]Got fuel in the tank? [*]Is the lift pump moving fuel to the VP44? [*]Is the VP44 pumping good amount of fuel with the lines cracked? [*]Is there any error codes?
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Completely Unimpressed with EDGE Juice CTS
Maybe try going backwards and giving Edge Comp a try... Personally myself I'm not impressed with all the bells and whistles they added to the Edge Juice or Edge CTS...
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Re-priming problem after RP-100 install (sorry it's a novel)
I did the same thing... That way there is no corroded wires and a bunch of wires hanging off the battery cables... Good one Perrysburg Dodgeboy