Mopar1973Man

I don't suggest this with any flamable cleaning solvent... Vacuum motor might ignite the vapors...

Hmmm... Interesting idea...

Well I guess the problem is gone... I checked today and the throughput in 385 KB/s :banghead: Gotta love the internet... Well I'm going to be finishing adding the files back to the system now...

$4.439 in Riggins, ID last time I've seen... I'm heading for New Meadows, ID to get trailer work done...

Manual transmission have all the luck... No problems with cup holder because they are on the floor... Only problem is my truck got too much HP and tips everything over all the time...

Do you still have the stock fuel filter housing? If not and the unplugged wire hanging there is getting wet it will trip the light just like you mention. But if you do have the stock filter yet look on the side of it and check if the WIF wires are plugged into it. Then unplug it and put some dielectric grease in the plug and plug it back in. This should cure the WIF light problem.

Codes? Fuel pressure? White smoke in the morning? Check for hot brakes? (Drag) As for the sensor I don't think there whould be that big of drop. As for cleaning sensor only needs to be done if you own a exhaust brake.

Check out this thread over on DieselTurckSite... http://www.dieseltrucksite.com/showthread.php?t=365

Hey gang... You know I've been hard at work rebuilding the download area. Well I hit a snag at least for me where all upload and download speeds are really slow and making my work difficult. I'm going to open the Download area up temporarly so you guys and gals can bench test the download area for me. I need to know if there is any problems speed, not completing etc. All files are compressed with RAR and all should have the password: mopar1973man.com Please list as much information about any problem you have if you can include screen shots... So download some books and documents guys and gals... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php

Welcome to the site... As for the APPS sensor no it not going to degrade it that much... But you could try a APPS reset and see if that helps. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/apps/apps.htm (Bottom of the page) Thing is I would help to fill out your signature with all the toys and mods on your truck and what year... But if you fuel pressure is low and your injection pump is getting weak then you will see poor MPG's. any fuel pressure below 10 PSI at anytime is a FAIL period. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/fuel-pressure/fuel-pressure.htm

Dang Russ... When it rains it pours... (Pun intended) I really wonder if the water is coming in higher than the window... Seam in the roof, corner trim or otherwise?

Grease gun hose not needed... I'm tapped right into the line with the needle valve and adjust accordingly... I personal don't think a grease gun hose is damping the pulses being a grease gun hose is rated for hundreds of pounds of pressure without swelling. The vulcan line is not rated that high and it doesn't dampen the pulses... But now a small orifice like a snubber or a needle valve actually stop the pulses. The old myth was the engine vibration caused sender failures on the electric gauges... Not true it was the fact they place the sender directly at the VP44 (source of the water hammer) and no protection (snubber or needle valve).Working for the last 7 years!

Stop by a body shop they show stock these kind of fasteners...

Like my Cummins low pressure light comes on at 3 PSI... But I'm running 15-17 PSI on the gauge when I see 14 PSI its time for a filter change...

I'm also running stock fuel filter housing with fleetguard filter against my AirDog 150 system. Now I'll tell you its been great because the stock filter captures all the little bit of debris that sneaks pass the AirDog filter. I figure about every 50-70K miles the stock filter needs to be changed. But as for fuel pressure I typically idle at 17 PSI and at WOT 55-80 MPH I can barely pull down to 15 PSI. So no the stock filter will not hamper the performance.

Dorkweed is right about the hydraulics... I'm still running stock master/slave hydraulics on my truck no issues...

Well John you know there is a place in the Northwest if you ever get here...

Hmmm... I can't say I've tried one... But I kind of wonder how grabby it might be? Like my Southbend Con OFE is a bit grabby with the polyurathane bushings in the hub. I kind of wish I would of got the spring hub instead of the poly hub. But the 13" flywheel is a nice addon that give much more bit for heavy pulling vs. the old school 12.25" flywheel. Yeah I know I'm comparing apples to oranges here...

Nice generator Russ... Now I'm waiting for the report of how it does with the trailer and your little get-around cart.

They got PAG oil in the can that you can charge on a manifold... Or you can pull a vacuum and the let it pull it from a normal bottle your choice. But its best to start with a dry system and charge with the proper amount. I typically prefer the canned PAG oil then there is less chance of getting debris in the system.

For quick reference...

185K on the clock... This is a milestone again for me... 100K miles of using 2 cycle oil and ZERO problems!

Time to get greasy...

No fun to use Gasbuddy if I'm the only one going to report diesel prices...

They will know me and the site by name really soon... (D'Oh!)