Mopar1973Man

Subscribed... Looking forward to see lots of pics...

Crank sensor...

Here you go... http://www.dieselperformance.com/index.php/product/index/9P Pull up the PDF document and look at the install...

Well I had to have a bit of fun... First off I've trained my dog "Diesel" to hold a treat on the end of his nose till I say go! Then he normally tosses it up and he catches it. But I had to see what would happen if the treat had stuck to the end of his beak... Here is the out come... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=TqVvfmRk4VI Never the less it was funny to watch...

Actually the feed to the Key ON wire from the ignition switch is held ON by the timer till the timer expires then the power is dropped. So this keeps everything in your truck operational PCM, ECM, lift pump, alternator etc. Also for security reasons the brake/trans selecter is usually monitored so if some see the vehicle run and figures he can drive off as soon as they it the brakes the engine dies. (Edge Juice - Turbo timer)

1 thing you not seeing in those pics is the RPM sensor and fuel temp sensor that is mounted in the hole where the pink rag is stuff... That is not on wires in on a computer ribbon... http://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/sizeimage.php?&photoid=17236&width=0

(shaking my head)... When the money runs out and no one is there to pay for the toyz he might change his ways...

Funny part is with the UV dye I've got in the system it shows up like a sore thumb without a doubt... But in all the times I check the system I never found any leaking out... :banghead:

Yeap...

Well it should work for testing purpose... But if it does work then you'll have to purchase a new ECM if so I suggest you look for another place like a ECM rebuilder shop to get one from being the dealer is way high for a ECM...

Personally if you increase the size of the tubing it would be capable of pulling a vacuum on the cruise motor faster. But you can only suck so much vacuum through that tiny tube... I'm thinking of chucking out that lame 1/8" tubing on Mom's 96 because of the very same problem. I changed a few fitting around so everything has access to the vacuum reservoir but on long uphill runs the vacuum runs out of the can too quickly... Hence same problem... :banghead:

This is the best I can give you... Here is the full engine wiring map. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/wiring/wiring.htm Then a simple break down of the CCD network... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/ccd/ccd.htm

I'm getting my notes and ideas hammered out on what I want to store for data... Ultimately I want to be hooked to vBulletin database for the user data but for my first program I'm going to build my own solo database for now. (Safer for the Forum ) But here is the information I want to capture... [ATTACH]1825[/ATTACH] Mopar1973Man Vehicle Maintenance.doc

Wow! Congrad to you...

Not bad.. I like it... Too bad I don't have one on my truck... But Mom's 96 does...

Ummm... P7100 pump conversion might be very expensive... Just in parts its about $3,500 to $3,800 bucks. Then the engine has to be ripped apart. The gear case has to be changed, cam got to be removed, etc... Then you got to send you injectors to be re-popped to run with the P-pump. It goes on and on. By the time your done you could buy 2 VP44's... No pump included at $2,100... http://www.puredieselpower.com/catalog/vp44-p7100-injection-pump-conversion-kit-for-9852002-dodge-cummins-p-28785.html?osCsid=2638685c8e5b8356749b04196667de77 Not very reliable...

Blue Chip has already tried this and failed... There is no way to reomve the electronics from the VP44 and remote mount them... Also something to thing about... When was the last time you heard of a P180 error code being reported on the web?? DTC P0180: FUEL INJECTION PUMP TEMPERATURE OUT OF RANGE Description Fuel injection pump temperature is monitored when ignition is on. DTC will be stored if problem exists in fuel injection pump. Possible cause is internal failure of fuel injection pump.

Crack a injector line and check and see if the pump is pumping fuel. Trade the fuel pump relay in the PDC with something else to verify its getting power to the VP44. As for testing the ECM you would need what I call a "Cummins Cheater Box" which plugs into the VP44 and excludes the ECM. This should all the truck to start and if you toggle the high idle switch the VP44 should respond by going to 1,200 RPM's. This will prove the ECM is bad and the VP44 is fine.

Another pic... Actually the only way to see the MAP sensor pressure correctly is with a Edge Juice/Quadzilla Adrenaline modules... Or... SnapOn OBD II scanner... Or... Dodge's DRBII tool. That why I suggested the mechanical gauge because that is the cheapest way to see boost for about $30-$40 bucks.

The Dodge ECM's have a offset voltage so it mis-reports the boost pressure. Like mine shows 28.6 PSIa on my ScanGauge II so I know that is the case... As for testing I would suggest you use a mechanical gauge you can hook it up here... HY35 can get at least 30 PSI of boost with a boost fooler and a j-hook present but without that the wastegate will open at about 18 PSI and the ECM will trip the check engine light and trip a P0234 error saying "Boost exceeded maximum limits". Then the engine defuels heavy.

Check your error codes... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm With the line loosen when you crank the engine its should look like a power washer under the hood when the pump is working right. So from what your saying I would check for error codes to verify the VP44 is dead and replace it... As for $2,100 for a pump it better be a DragonFire Pump... http://www.puredieselpower.com/catalog/industrial-injection-dragon-fire-vp44-140-more-flow-stock-p-18763.html Because stock VP44's are much cheaper... http://www.dieselautopower.com/product_p/sovp44.htm As for shop rate... It exactly 4 hours by the book to change a VP44 but I can do it in about 3 hours...

Personally I don't think the HR VP44 is worth the extra money for only a extra ~40 HP. They don't last any longer than stock. Anything that taps the VP44 is going to given you the most power for your buck. Programmers and untapped boxes only will produce a max of 60 HP roughly. Cooler is a matter of your foot... Like my Edge Comp on 5x5 and my cruise set at 55 MPH I'm barely pulling 500-550*F EGTs. But stomp my foot into the throttle and I can see 1,400*F rather easy...

JL... I don't know what to say anymore... Its like the problem won't die... I know the shopping list is longer that the truck now... I know you got a comma in the total price invested. All I can say is yank the engine out place it on a stand in the corner of the shop and sell the parts... Find another engine with the electronics and install in your truck... What ever you decide to get as a replacement you better test drive first...

Ummm... Like today it was 88-90*F it nice to have it when it is hot... Trust me... I'll be much happier when the temps fall to around 20-40*F... (Ahh...)

Little bit of information for my wanderings... Well what I can tell you is the front axle will be near it Gross Weight Rating... So keeping an eye on steering parts is in order. (Ball joints, tierods, etc). I heard tell tale stories of overheat issues with the blade in the full up position. Some will suggest to drop the blade just a little from the top so the air can pass over the top to aid in cooling. I've seen spoilers that mount to the top of the blade to aid in air movement over the blade. But wonder how that will last when you might be shoving some large amounts of snow and ice. Little secret I found at least for my truck is if you soften your tire pressures slightly to add just a bit more belly to the tire it will aid in traction. The only thing I got to compare ot that is my neighbors ATV with a blade which I use to blade my yard and his every winter. So I understand the concept but on a smaller scale...