Mopar1973Man

Well I got to admit its a hell of a thread and learning something from all the comments/posts...

The correct way to check for AC noise is use a oscilloscope to see the noise ride on the DC voltage.

I'm now running 5x3 during my wood haul and all seeing if I can tame the Edge Comp and see if I can reach good MPG on this setting.. So far its tough when your hauling up and own hills with 2 cords of wood at a time...

I never bothered to keep the receipts because of the simple fact there is only 1 fuel station I use around home. Then if I got to Boise i use the same fuel station in Payette every time. Then if I got to Lewiston I use the same one there... Never had a bad tank of fuel but once at a local Mom & Pop fuel station here at home. After that I knew what to look for and ask the owner how they deal with the pump and filters. Just to let you know I know of 2 stations locally to me I will not buy fuel from because of weather issues, shelter, pumps, etc... Even though the price might be cheaper I wil not touch the fuel its not worth it.

Just wait I knew of a guy I worked with that got a few tattoos in his younger years. Now that he's older the ink is smeared looking and the artwork is distorted because his skin is no longer tight like when he was young... So after seeing that I'm like nope... Yes there is some fantastic artwork but put it to paper and I can keep it longer...

JL Welding... wild idea I came up with and as a matter of fact I found another person that has your problem too... But I started to think about it again and though about the shield that covers the signal leads into the VP44. The shield lead is ground at the ECM side but never completes the path to the VP44 end so there is technically no way to test this... But What if the shield is no longer doing its job of keeping AC noise out because its broke loose from the ground...

According to my shop labor book its 2.3 hours for compression test for a 2001 Cummins diesel.

Well as for putting the injectors together yes you could do it yourself... But as for doing it right your going to need to take the injectors into a shop and have them pop tested and set properly. Here is a good idea what injector looks like and how it assembles... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/injector-cleaning/injector-cleaning.htm

Well as for me the rule of thumb is start in 1st anytime the trailer is hitched up... Then start in 2nd anytime I'm without trailer. But This rule changes if there is a grade and I'm starting on the grade then I start in 1st regardless of trailer or not...

No body marks on me... Never did like the idea of tattoo's...

Lower the pop pressure more advancement of ther timing. Higher the pop pressure more retarded the timing. So its suggested to set the injectors properly and not alter the pop pressures...

This is a possible result of poor produced BioDiesel this is cause from not washing the fuel properly.

ECM is going be the next step... As for Rburks comment... As he calls me out on a mistake... Well being the first wiring diagram we all had was the cheap black and white diagrams from the Dodge FSM well I did pay close attention to the grounds. Come to find out the color map shows very clearly the ground terimnal behind the starter is lift pump, fuel heater and I think grid heater solenoid. As for the rest of the grounds like the engine sensors and the ECM ground we start tracing them down and found out they come together at the engine side battery ground not the terminal behind the starter. So I need a good ol'....

Little better Elshadow??? On 98.5 and 99 they use APPS sensor for cruise after that I think in 2000 they switched and the PCM diectly controls the ECM and omits the APPS sensor out right.

Actually that is more like water is what appears like since most all BioDiesel is rinse with water to remove the waste products. As for seperation that typically occurs in cold weather the Bio part of the fuel will sink to the bottom of the tank and solidify and the diesel will seperate and rise above the biodiesel. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/93-Bio-Diesel-and-the-effects...?highlight=biodiesel Some of the wonderful effects of biodiesel...

Best idea is to get the ball joint press tool for doing them... Some heat might help ease them out.

Vacuum line issues are normally pointed out quickly because the vent controls always land on DEF regardless of the vent control setting. The other problem that does occur is housing rots from the battery acid or the wiring corrodes...

Yeah Mom's 96 looks nasty... Center of the hood. Wide angle view of the roof. Driver side front of the roof. Driver side of the hood

Not bad... Hopefully we see him show up at the site..

Now Mom's 96 was out since 2002 and still good it only this spring I finally kicked the 79 Dodge magnum XE out of the garage and stuck her truck in. Now on her truck the paint is going south completely since last winter it been peeling off the hood and top like gang busters. So I didn't get the dash yet but the paint is gone south for sure... Mine... well its had a pampered life of being in the garage or parked under huge shade trees and kept out of the direct sunlight. Just last year I got a sunshade to put in the windshield to keep the baking summer sun off the dash...

Ok guys... Lets see pics of your broken dash... I would like to see some... Its got to be a southern problem because I've not seen a single one yet here in Idaho yet...

Chrome makes it go faster... The only problem is no one will ever know they are chrome/polished injectors but you...

Yes sir... BD Stealth Plate...

I think there is more to that explosion that just adding freon... * High side switch malfunction?* Moisture possibly in the system plugged the orfice tube? But that one good reason to have a manifold gauge set before you even think of adding freon.

Remember there is all the suction line from the fuel tank forward to the lift pump that will not leak outwards and will require some air pressure to make it show.