Mopar1973Man

Ok the ECM is the controller of the anti-stall (Manual trans) but on a Automatic its not needed so both the PCM and ECM both need to be rteflashed to operate properly.

As fr the copying of the hard drive I normally use Nortn's Ghost which was actually PowerQuest Drive Image years ago. But regardless the Norton Ghost 14 or 15 will make a prefect copy of the orignal drive and place it on the new drive. Comes with its own boot disk and operating system. After that its works flawless as a backup program... As for larger drives you will see a slow down after they load up with information say 1 TB or so... The way the hard drive works is that windows asks for a file the hard drive must go the index and look up the placement of the file on the drive. Then go read the file from the drive. Kind of like having encyclopedias and using the index book to look up "diesel" and pull the book and look up the pages. Now what I've normally always done to gain just a small bit of performance back is to partition the dirve up. So using your 1.5 TB drive I would consider doing 250 GB partitions or 500 GB partitions. So now your index table is greatly shorten. If a logicall drive error occurs it only effects the logical drive not he entire drive. Or better yet if a virus land on the drive it only a small drive to scan much faster. As for the screws I'm got close to 50# of those... I'll give them to you if needed...

Hmmm... If it was me I would consider just getting the vulcan draw straw and drill and tap a fitting into the module for standard 3/8 hose and attach the return line with normal rubber hose and hose clamps. Way cheaper than a Dodge dealer can do...

Randy4140... Could you do as all a favor and shot a pic of the engine and then one of the driver side door jamb label... This will resolve the engine / year problem we are having... For example like my setup... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2122-Mopar1973Man-2002-Dodge-Cummins Yeah and LiveOak's thread has everything you need for getting the job done wonderful set of videos... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2352-Timing-cover-broken?p=18016&viewfull=1#post18016

If your going to do this open the cap to the fuel tank... Use small short burst and have a partner listen at the fuel tank. Be aware the fuel might spray out of the filler neck also if you forget to open the cap it might spray back fuel on you when you release the blow gun...

Ok... A few question for you... [*]Does your running light work properly? (Headlights on) [*]Does the left and right turn signal work properly? My first thought is the multi-function switch in the column is to blame because... If you turn on the left turn signal the brake light on the left side is canelled (disconnected) and allow the flash to control the taillight. Then all the wiring comes down the driver side frame rail and splices to the passenger. So if its a wiring issues both would be dead. So the problem is forward of the driverside bulb... Hence my though of the mutli-function switch. Try wiggling the connector and the switch arm... But I think a contact wore plain and simple.

Well on my return trip to the airport today I managed to stopp and see David again... Also found out his username this time... (Diesel Dummy)... Now a little background on David he owns to Dodge Cummins trucks one is a 3rd gen and the other is a 2nd gen 24V. He's a total newibe to the diesel world so as soon as I resolve his login issue he's going to need everyone to help him learn about diesels...

No... At least not me.. Killer dowel pin fell out... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/kdp/kdp.htm Well its going to be a full weekend job... Your going to need to pull the front off the engine plus pull the cam out. That's if your replacing the gear case. Cummins or Dodge dealer??? Steel cover but aluminum case. What little I can provide...

Yeap... W&F is right that you got to becareful about the head gasket. ARP studs will most likely be the next step...

It best to get the oil pressure sender from a Cummins dealer it cheaper that way...

Like I had ISX do the math on his local red dye and on-highway fuels from what I remember him saying it was about a $3 dollar saving over a 35 gallon tank which make it buy 34 gallons get 1 gallon free... So is it really worth taking the risk for 1 free gallon of fuel (16-18 more miles)?

Hit the vendor form and post it up I'm sure a vendor will come and answer... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/forumdisplay.php/67-Vendors-amp-Dealers

Error codes? Fuel pressure? Random idle up and down is very conserning... It points towards a bad ECM but I would like to get more clues that could point the finger at it.

So of course if the cetane to drop too low <40 cetane the burnability of the fuel would be so poor that emmission would increase rapidily. But of course if you drive the cetane upwards to 55 then the fuel would burn up completely before the end of the power stroke. So once again there is a balance ot the cetane mystery. Here is the best way to look octane to cetane. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1663&d=1283554927

Nope... P0216 is a timing issue because the timing cam assembly is total wore out and no longer can time the pump roperly. This is cause by low fuel pressure, excessive wear internal, etc... Usually the the cheap thing that saves a pump from showing this is a fuel pressure gauge if the pressure is below 10 PSI you take a huge risk for P0216 code...

Now another thing that boh of you are forgetting about is the EPA requirements... Cetane and fuel specs are designed to meet EPA requirement regardless of BTU content, cetane, etc.. So if Cummins show a requirement for >45 Cetane fuel this is because its has to deal with EPA emissions. It has nothing to do with net power. So now if you could scientifically test fuels across the board and try different thing without the EPA requirements I bet you'll find a way different story to be told...

Well Gang! I got to meet 2 of the members from the site... AH64ID and David (Unknown username)... Since I was heading toward Boise Airport and both members happen to be close by with a few phone calls on the cell phone I got a shot at meet both of then for a short time and at least shakehand with them both... I wanted to say thanks to both of you for making a little time to say "Hi!" and at least put a face to a name... Here soon I'll make a bit more time and we'll hook up and spend some time doing something maybe a wrench party...

Lalalalala... So you yanked everything out and dumped it in the bed of your truck... (Batteries, coolant bottle, wiper washer, fan shroud, fan, etc) Then missing a heater shield for the BHAF... I'll surprise ya...

Don't start with me... - -

Feul grade hose is a whole different rubber from coolant grade.. So what size are you looking for 3/8" or 1/2" hose? This should cover you... http://www.vulcanperformance.com/category-s/264.htm

See I told ya...

Well I got to admit that was a bold move to pull the housing... But now you need to break out your Mother's Polish and do that turbo inside and out... Remember Chrome makes it go faster...

Yeap I agree... So 1 oz of oil would burner loner producing more BTU's (lower cetane) compared to 1 oz of gasoline which burns quickly producing less BTU's (high cetane) The only time I see high cetane being a real need is for racing applications where the RPM's are 4K and the piston speed is so fast that the fuel needs to burn fast enough to keep pushing at a high rev application. But for typical street use I don't see a need for above 45 Cetane.

Look at the tank vent... I've had this issue with a Chevy Diesel fire truck what I found was the vent hose had a sag in it and the fuel would pool so hence the vent was plugged so as filed the tank it would displace the air and blow it on your leg... Well after ziptie and redoing the vent hose never had a problem.

That also struck me as odd... That a old school 12V fuel system was good enough for bigger horsepower but even with the restrictions and banjo bolts etc it was fine... But on a 24V it was so bad most had ditch the stock fuel system and go big line kits... Really interesting... (Hmmm)