Mopar1973Man

Not bad at all... 20.5 MPG is nothing to sneeze at... Wait till you get the summer fuel with lower cetane you should be able to push that number up a bit more!

Dealer is the the only one I know of that is capable of seeing the speed sensors... There is a few SnapOn scanner that can too... As for the price I don't know...

Oh Yeah just been busy web page building... But comments are in blue...

Perfect... The your problem could be with one of the front sensor... The sensor is reading off slighlty causes the ABS to start to fire a bit. Because if the rear sensor had problem you would see the speedometer needle stick at zero or read erratically or show just a bad value. right now the problem is so mild to the ABS computer it not tripping the light but once the difference increase the ABS light will come on and the ABS system will eventually fail completely returning back to old school brake system. On these truck it really easy to lock up all 4 wheels.

ABS light on? P0500 codes? YES Speedometer work or not? How about they other 2 questions?

ABS light on? P0500 codes? Speedometer work or not?

I would plumb a test gauge and check the oil pressure and see what you got... Then replace the stock sender and go from there...

That's funny... I remember day of driving gasser and always though the smell of diesel was nasty... Now gasser really stinks and burns your eyes compared to diesel.

Can you change spark plugs in a gasser? Well it just as easy just different... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/injectors/injectors.htm

Smart man... You know the limits of the head gasket and limit your boost properly...

Interesting point there Flman... Might be a good idea to hook a battery disconnect on the system to isolate the truck from the frame... But as for grounds there is several ground under the hood... There is one near the battery on the driver side, there is one behind the starter on the block, and then the common cable that hook to the block... but the dodge FSM would be the best resource for looking up all the grounds...

That why i seen some really weird number on dyno's for older 12V trucks. I've seen were guys have been looking for big boost numbers just to say they got it. But in the long haul their Dyno numbers were poor. But yea with a 24V the sensor do a good part of the job but not all. Still best to get the right turbo for the amount of fuel your spraying. Like myself I know I'm at the end of my rope. RV275 injectors and Edge Comp I would have to upgrade turbo if i went up more. But I would also be looking into a Dual Disc Clutch. Then might be time to look towards ARP studs and fire-ring the head too... The slippy slope of BOMBing your Cummins... Ahhhhh!

Like Mopar Mom said just get me some artwork or even some text I'll create a banner ad for the site and advertise your cottage industry or business... I'm avoiding using Google Ad's and such because i would rather advertise the donating members (Premium and vendors) than a bunch of random ads from Google. So for you vendors on the site build up your group areas with so specials or products to display. As for the premium members get your artwork to me. Like JL welding got his banner here... So you also can build up a group area as well and post up some of your products you produce or sell.

Hmmm... I was going to ask if Cummins was handling it... But they are... Geez...

Strange setup... The upper ball joints have a thread on them and twist out. But is a very strange rounded thread. But now the lower ball joints are smooth shank and are pressed in. Now the funny part is the 1st set of ball joint I got were mis packaged and are too small. So we found one more ball joint with the same number but the right ones... But now waiting for 1 to show up Tuesday from Spokane, WA. I'm going to grab the camera and post some pics later today of the new parts... I know Taz would chime in but he's got limited access to internet currently...

True... But what I was pointing out its possible to degrade the performance with too much boost... In Taz's case he needs more clutch to hold it down now...

I might have to put a mystery switch on Mom's 1996 Truck...

Might check this thread... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1378-Code-P0753-troubleshooting

Similar to this one... (Number 2) Or... (Number 1)

I think that is the problem with most guys that start moding there truck... The fact that when we start adding fuel we always add more boost but get carried away with the boost numbers. Like I found out on Taz's 92 he's got a HX35 mounted in place of the H1C that came stock. He's got a VE pump with 366 gov spring and the poump turned up and re-index the arm. But he burying the boost gauge at 30+ PSI and never getting pyro above 600-700*F... well as we back down the boost pressure to about 20-25 PSI the pyrometer started to come up and power increased too. It's very possible to to flood the engine with too much air basically blowing out the flame.

Hmmm... Sorry for the delay... (Busy site building) But you need separate send for each gauge... Can't piggy back them. The sender for ISSPro with not work with the Edge properly and visa-versa...

Now just pressure the system to about 20 PSI and see if the wastegate moves too...

Your going to have to figure out the source of the leak and deal with that... But I'm starting to wonder if the pump is damaged too? (Burning the fluid) All the other device in the system don't create heat... Only the pump does so the idea of the fluid scorching is rather strange unless there is a bearing problem? (Maybe)

Yeah 4WD front ends are fun to beat on get ball joints in or out... I'm doing a 2WD right now... I waiting on the new joints to show tuesday... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1453-Rebuild-a-1st-Gen-front-end

Because the the last 1-2 gallons is trapped in the bottom of the block and usually the air trapped in the system takes time to burp out... So like I said you'll get close with 5 gallons... Next time I flush mine out I'll get pics of the way I park my truck for draining...