Mopar1973Man

Ok I can toss another I've seen. Working with one of the shops I was hired at and customer requested for a 2 inch leveling kit installed on his Ford. I was there and helped install the leveling kit but now the track bar wouldn't reach so the mechanic used a big come-a-long to pull the axle over in place to fit the old track bar. Serious thrust angle screw up and should of had a adjustable track bar. Something I'm backing out of now. Russ my landlord for my second shop is know for hitting salvage yards for replacement parts. I've seen way too many used transmissions that lasted a short time. Get the donor transmission out and drop the pan in the fluid could be black or contaminated. I even told Russ no more of salvage parts because I don't want to stand behind a gamble. Being one truck that he owns I shoved 4 transmission in and finally Russ blew the engine on that Chevy truck.

Because they total screwed the pooch on that pump. The pump actually only pumps as the piston returns back out ot the cam so at 3,000 RPM that old 12V mechanical pump is only 10% efficient. Lower RPM's it does very well but at faster RPM's the efficiency drops fast and hard because the pump piston can 't return fast enough. Hence why guys that truly race 12V don't run the mechanical because it will starve out the p-pump. Daily drive those are fine but not good for any type of racing or high RPM uses. The cam pushes the pump plunger in and it pumps on the return stroke so if the cam is spinning too fast it only hops on the tip of the lobe being that the return spring is doing the pumping till the plunger makes contact with the cam again. As for the first gen the fuel pump is not high enough volume rate and only produces about 4 to 6 PSI total. This why the 1st gen was dropped because the volume of the lift pump and the limit of VE pump was good enough to keep up with HP. So the p-pump came out.

One of the few reasons I love my standard open diff only one wheel spins per axle. Still keep my traction. Last trip back from Lewiston coming up Whitebird I felt the rear tire slip a bit but she kept tracking straight on.

Personally I don't see masks doing anything. After a year of wearing them what I found is cloth or paper once they as wet from your breath just working or walking its no longer filtering. Im breathing around the mask typically fogging my glasses more so and making me blind. This makes shopping hard trying to she through fogged glasses. It also makes you tried because your oxygen level drops a bit more under working conditions and damp masks. Keeping my distance from others and washing my hands is priority.

Well @Jthor was playing sneaky and left for day ride... When he returned he picked our new family pet. Named Ruby. She is Chocolate Lab and Border Collie. Ill love having fur babies.

Does matter what kind of vehicle. Typically I see either Red vehicles drive slow and like a F.O.R.D. Then the Ford owners are just as bad. Leave late, drive fast and reckless. That is one of my things I would rather leave early and take my time back down the cruise and just relax. I typically set about -2 MPH lower than posted and just chill out. Dodge, RAM or Cummins owners typically are very polite.

Well I can roll back time. Back to my 1972 Dodge Power Wagon (4WD). My previous truck I did all the things a pup would do. Oversized tires and lift kits. Managed to tear up the wheel joints over 4 sets of wheel stubs damaged. Wore out 3 steering boxes 2 I've rebuilt myself. Suspension failures tie rods and ball joint issues stemming from lift and over size tires. I turned around and trade both my 1972 Dodge Power Wagon and Mom's 1976 Dodge Power Wagon in for trade in. I gave Mom the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 to drive at that time and then took over the 2002 Dodge for all the work load. Ol' blue was so hard to get parts for I ran it till I couldn't get parts any longer. Axle parts for that partial truck was a strange half year axle that was rare with front drum brakes. Sorry for the poor quality photo but that the only one I've got. This was after pulling all my oversized tires and lift kit out and sold them. Then Mom's 1976 Dodge Power Wagon (727 Auto, 4WD)

Just wait till the day and the return tee starts to leak air. Oh the sealing washers at the back of the head are leaking. Crossover tube o-ring failed and you now lost prime you not starting and it can randomly happen. I've seen it happen even on my truck which I see the fuel pressure fall flat to ZERO as the electric pump tries to reprime. Mine will start again. But mechanical pumps will not, kind of like when the stock block mount pump dies. No different.

Mine happen to be the Ford people coming from Boise or Lewiston crossing paths or they are coming for the snow in McCall, Idaho. When I pay attention to license plates you can see then next one is from a big town. Idaho list it registered county as letter number combo. Like most of my plates are Adams county (2A) but I got a few Idaho county (I) or Valley county (V). I'm looking for (1A) plates for Ada county (Boise). C plate (Canyon County). N (Nez Perce County) Lewiston Idaho. So in all the ownership of my truck (425k miles and 18 years) I've never had a speeding ticket, never been in a traffic accident, and one of the safetest drivers out there I've dodged many close calls and pulled off the impossible. Missed a head on at 55 MPH on ice and managed to get stopped safely off the road. @Wet Vettewill never forget this one she was there.

100% is true stock. 143% is equal to the 150 HP (7 x 0.010) I'm running.

I would suggest calling DAP and asking on options for your current injectors. 7 x 0.009 isn't really all the big. I'm still running 7 x 0.010 with my current single turbo. Too big of turbo you'll never get it to spool. I've seen this once where guy use to big for the second and it never built boost and he was building on 7 x 0.0085 injectors (+75 HP).

Nice. I'm hoping old man winter drops a few feet here. Been rather just cold and wet. Seen a few like 15 and 19*F mornings. Nothing much.

Talk to @AH64ID the filter guru.

Are you using a standard ratio box? Do not use a "quick ratio" put way too much strain on the gear box. Then with larger tires it makes it weaker. Standard ratio is lower geaed and easier to turn with larger tires. All I'm running is a Blue Top Quick Ratio, NAPA power Steering fluid with a NAPA power Steering pump. No filter. My OEM pump lasted 425k miles. Only running 245's (30.5 inch tires). Only change fluid every 30k miles. Something in the steering box power valve assembly? If there is debris blocking the port to deliver fluid to one side or the other it will be restricted making it worse. I woulds consider swap out of the synthetic fluid, go back to petroleum base. Might be a bit better for pressure. Never had a pressure problem with standard power steering fluid where I've seen several with synthetic possible reason maybe. Make sure you not using ATF! No designed for it. Since power comes from the hydro booster is there any thing plugging a port in the hydrobooster restricting fluid flow? Plugged port, hydrobooster spool stuck partial? Power Steering Pump -> Hydro Booster -> Power Steering box

Too many to even start... Being I've done this for so many years. I started turning wrenches at 15 years old back in 1985...

Stock valve spring I'm at 500 HP already. It about Boost pressure and drive pressure when your drive pressures are reaching over 60 PSI you start to blow open the valves. So current the stock springs are good for 60 pounds of force. Just remember exhaust brake takes full advantage of the drive pressure and the 60 PSI spring and pull the truck down to crawl. So when you reach the 50 to 60 PSI boost range it will be time to upgrade. I currently max out boost at 47 to 49 PSI. Currently my last trip to Lewiston Quad on Level 2 it possible to light up the tires without CANBus fuel or Wiretap. ~500 HP to the ground. 150 HP DAP Injectors (7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar) HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) Quadzilla Adrenaline

I'm going to start posting the dumb crap I'm seeing on the highway. Last night on my way home from Lewiston ID. I just left Riggins, ID and following a Swift Truck (driving 35 MPH in 55 MPH) and 2 other little vehicles (Both Fords). I seen I had a chance to pass one vehicle and tuck back in line. So I lay into the power and start to slip back in the Ford stomps on his brake pedal heading for the ditch this force me to step on the throttle and over take him a second vehicle. I've never seen such a "D__k move ever" If the Ford would of just keep his cruise control going I would just slip in behind him and waited for the next passing area 2 miles away. Nope he flat out stomped the brakes and dove for the ditch. The lead vehicle in front of me does not have to drive from me but drive for himself. Stupid FORD... For Only Retarded drivers. Even driving a Ford ranger with hazed over headlight and on HI BEAMs even better.

You gotta build a tune for the Quadzilla the default tune is not a good one. All my tunes are built around 150 HP injectors and my turbo HX35/40 Hybrid. I could build you a tune based out of my tune possibly. My last trip to Lewiston, ID with bitter cold no winter front was 18.5 MPG and running 65 to 68 MPH. The biggest thing is not the fuel map but the timing map. Timing mean more that the fuel map. You can have a bad timing map and lose MPG like a stone. Timing wise you looking to make your engine load the lowest. If your timing is off by a little it will typically slide down in MPG. Fuel map can be anything you want for power. Like my Eco mode is limited to 120% Canbus. I don't even use level 3 but level 2. Fuel up to 100% that it but the timing can make or break a good tune. Most start out too high. The 1,500 band I suggest either 13 or 14 degrees. Then figure +3 step up or +4 step up. Like myself I pull all my tunes currently and looking to get my tune to working properly just touching 20 MPG like the past. But my truck has been down more than driven but now I'm trying to resolve the oil leaks. Wire tap make sure you set the starting pressure at 15 to 20 PSI you do not want wire tap coming on while daily driving but only if you lay into the power. Cruise timing you want to aim for about 19* at 2,000 RPM. How many miles on your current injectors? Wore out injectors with low pop pressures will degrade the performance as well. If the pop pressure is slipping down below 293 bar the they are done and wore out. Stock is 310 bar. Lot of injector builder set them for 300 or 305 bar and short the life span for more fuel. I'm running 150 HP injectors from DAP (7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar) and made 14.3 MPG towing my RV all the way to Arizona. No. I walked away from Edge Comp very smokey tune at +50 HP injectors. No smoke control without losing power. No timing control at all. So you have to drive 55 MPH or slower to get good MPG. I owned a Edge Comp for 11 years of service and will NEVER return. Junk Edge Comp tuner compare to Quadzilla. Which does everything a normal performance guy is looking for. Again the biggest thing is setting up timing. Like my timing... 13.0, 17.5, 22,0, 26.5 27.0 - Start at 13 Degrees then step up +4.5 per band. Cruise timing I measure out the cruise engine load at 65 MPH on flat ground I can typically hold about 19% so giving a small buffer set it for 22%. I'm only using now a +1 cruise timing. Max load timing is 3. Low P{SI timing 2.5*, then timing reduct scale 40% I shorted the reduct timing because under heavy throttle launching it was going dead quiet (no rattle). This is a sign of too far retarded. That right there is all the timing. Timing you play way more. Every time I make a good choice the power gets better on level 2 so far enough to get the tires to spin lose in Lewiston. (Thain Grade). If you make a bad choice then the power is degraded. This is without changing fuel or wiretap settings again with level 2 fuel map is cut to stock. So the only thing can gain power at this point is timing tuning. When that's dialed in then you can get to the fuel tap and other stuff to pour on even more fuel. So at this time on my last trip running Level 2. (No added CANBus or Wiretap fuel Only stock ECM 100%) I'm capable of getting the tires to spin free from light to light in Lewiston. No added power from either CANBus or Wiretap but just running good timing and the power comes so well it will break the tires lose with only just the +150 HP injectors. (No CANBus fuel bonus, No Wiretap fuel bonus). This shows how just timing can make or break a tune.

Double filters are optimal! You would be super surprised to see what my stock filter picks up that a 3um Donaldson will pass. Not to mention I also extended my change interval of filters to 60k miles being that even the AirDog 150 filter at 15k miles is still brand new and white. You have to check the filter media and see what the debris level is. So I quit wasting money changing filters too early.

Never had a reason for Recirc on heating positions. When its pouring 160*F to 170*F out the center vents when is ZERO outside is no problem. Never had a need for recirc on heat. I'm here in the subzero land too. Dodge has had this vent control layout for YEARS! My 1976 Dodge Power Wagon, 1973 Dodge Charger, 1978 Dodge Magnum, 1996 Dodge Ram and even my 2002 Dodge.

Key on pressure is nothing... That little burp of pump is the ECM booting up and the lift pump runs for a brief second pulse then off again. Lift pump doesn't get any signal till the crank sense. Now while cranking it reduces the fuel pressure with 50% duty cycle on and off. Once started the pump runs 100% duty cycle constant on. I tend to prefer the electric pumps being you have your prime cycle and pressure reduction during cranking. With a mechanical pump if you lose prime for any reason you will not get it started again most likely. Like my current customer he HAD a mechanic pump but the regulator failed starve the VP44 out of course ruin the VP44. Now He's got a FASS 150 and it failed in 100 miles too wiping out the VP44. (P0216 and P1689) Again, like I keep telling people the pump is mounted in the "damage path" and the got hosed with all the water and snow from the rear tires. Both failed VP44 and FASS 150. Now doing the warranty work for this customer. I had a nice long chat with FASS tech team on trying to get this resolved.

Stock timing is not efficient by any means. The green bar areas are a good place to stay for stockish trucks. Like 13, 17, 21, 25 (+4 step) would be a good spot to try or 13,16, 19, 22 (+3 step) are both good starts. I've got to run a good drop of timing in the winter due to the high cetane fuels out here. Then when summer gets here I crank it back up and run high timing because of low cetane fuels. QUADZILLA TIMING SECRET If you REALLY want to keep the stock. Then on the timing section set everything to ZERO. Then go into MAX TIMING and set the plus amount of timing ZERO would be stock completely. Like 1500 RPM you go +1 degree. 2K go +2 etc. This was a hidden setting if you wanted to follow the stock timing map. @Me78569has more experience with this.

Should always keep the stock filter! More filters are always better. As for FASS 150 I've got another one in the yard that failed in under 100 miles. Yup! You heard correctly. The customer got a brand new FASS 150 and VP44 and just driving back home from the store in Riggins and it died in front of my place. Towed him in and sure enough the FASS 150 has ZERO PSI. The VP44 is dead as well with P0216 code and P1689 code. Now I'm doing the warranty work.

Personally I would rather keep the AirDog. I'm on my 3rd. First pump lasted 250k miles and 11 years. Second pump was a 3rd gen pump and barely lasted 7k miles seal failed diesel fuel washed out the bearings. Towed home for $450 bucks. CURRENT - 4G AirDog 165 pump head mounted to my filter base. Zero issues. Mechanical pump I feel are too far from the fuel tank. (Personal). The other problem is there is no way to reprime if you get air in the system. There is no priming pump to refill the system. Pumps are design to PUSH fuel, not to suck on a 20 foot long straw. Give it a whirl some time put a bottle of beer on your rear bumper and stuff a 1/2" hose in the bottle and suck, boy, suck! You'll understand after trying. Always best to have the pump as close as possible to the fuel tank. The Current job I got in the yard his previous pump was a belt driven and got fed up with fuel pressure problems (regulator sticking open and dropping the fuel pressure) and went back to FASS 150 (even warned the owner about this). That pump last barely 100 miles and the FASS is at ZERO PSI and failed took the VP44 for the ride with P216 and P1689 codes. (His truck died 2 days after warning him 100 feet from my driveway.) Sent the pump to FASS to be replaced and the VP44 back to Power Driven Diesel. Even while on the the phone with FASS I showed them how to fix this problem so they might actually take me serious about striking filters tires flinging debris at the filters and pump. I explained about anything hang below the frame for offroad use and being in the damage path of the tires. Hence while motors are ruined with snow and water slung at them for years, filter being pulled off and hit by debris. But who knows...