Mopar1973Man

CANBus doesn't need scaling down. Being you can reach MAX CaNBus (4095 fueling number) at any point you want. You can cut CANBus as low as 50% fuel. Wiretap is the uncontrolled one being adding the max timing 2,200 microseconds of pulse. The levels allow to find the max CANBus without flooding out the turbo (excessive smoke).

Yup I typically suggest the AirDog out here. I won't suggest the FASS because of the filter being in the impact path. If anything hangs below the frame rail it can be hit while offload. The last FASS I installed had more problems with gelling and freeze ups. Rear tires kept throwing snow on the filters and pump motor till it just quits. AirDog can be hind much easier like mine is hidden behind the transfer case and skid plate protects the filters. Even with temps as low as -40*F and now over 350k miles on this system I've NEVER gelled once. I've lost the first pump after 250k miles. Now this pump is still going and I'm at 415 k miles now. Fuel temps are nice and low too below 120*F normally.

Level 4 to level 10 is basically the wiretap split up. I typically go from 0 to 7 levels (8 in the settings page). Now why... Level 4 is 25% wiretap Level 5 is 50% wiretap Level 6 is 75% wiretap Level 7 is 100% wire tap If you set for 11 levels that would be 10% per level of wiretap.

Just unplug the fuel heater. Best setup yet with 30.5 Inch tires. These get the final ratio down to 3.69:1 to the road and awesome for towing. Never once did I have a EGT issue all the way to Arizona also towing my 31 foot RV. Even with 7% grades, cruise set for 65 MPH, EGTs land right at 1,000 to 1,100*F and the Quadzilla on my tow tune and set for KILL! Even empty running at 82 MPH at 2,500 RPM I still can hit 21 MPG. On that trip was 14.7 MPG Max, 12.6 MPG Avg, low was 9.6 MPG. Again this is because I gave up drag of larger tires and opted for smaller tires for lower ratio which lessen drag on the engine. So my normal daily driving I land right at 2,000 RPM at 66 MPH. Very optimal for daily driving here in the mountains. I'm use to seeing 500*F to 600*F EGT's around 60 to 65 MPH stuff. Then my average engine load on flat ground 82 MPH is about 25% engine load. Look above it was only 22% engine load. Boost is like 5 to 7 PSI at 82 MPH!!! Look above the EGT's was a mere 683*F at 82 MPH.

Correct. Level 1 is valet mode. But this is not used for warm up. Valet mode. In other words a secure fuel environment for people that don't understand high power Cummins truck. I set it very low for tire shops or security methods. If my truck was stolen the driver would give up rather quickly and ditch the truck than running with it. Warm Up mode automatically selects level 0 and the bar is GREEN. This period of time during warm up your on ECM software for timing. Fueling is limits to the 0 PSI only. Now Selecting level 0 after Warm Up then your on ECM fuel and timing. (Stock ECM Tune). Level 2 is all defuel part of the CANBus fuel map till 100% and stops right there at stock fuel. Level 3 is full CANBus fuel map.

Not normal, really. Actually high... Even with 201*F coolant, 175*F engine oil temperature, my VP44 fuel temp is only 84*F. This is even cruising at 82 MPH down the interstate. Just for me to reach the I84 interstate is a 2.5 hour drive for me. Truck is fully warmed up after 125 mile trip.

Couple of frozen chickens, frozen veggies, frozen fruit for smoothies. Doing the healthy thing...

Not enough volume of fuel... My truck the IAT and Fuel Temp are the same. Typically lately its about 112*F max. Still running the 4G AirDog 165 pump on the 2G AirDog 150 base. Full 1/2 inch plumbing from tank to injection pump.

No. Only used for Level 1 power. So in my case I use it for a security level. When I park I set the Quad for Level 1. Now if anyone steals my truck it only rolls at about 20 MPH tops. Even at this setting its more than enough power for tires shops to drive the truck. Warm Up mode is level ZERO. Which is stock ECM no Quadzilla tune at all till your reach your coolant setting. Now the max fuel in the warm up is the 0 PSI column of the CANBus fueling. It will hold 0 PSI till it unlocks then the entire table is used when RED power bar is seen. As for me I run quite a bit of timing. I step up 4.5 degrees on each band... 14, 18.5, 23, 27.5... You should be able to run even more.

Alternator could be bad with failed diodes.

I only do 3 lines period. 1, 3, and 4. Leave the others alone. Now the 3 open lines will purge fast allowing to build pressure in the other lines. Now where its starts to fire stop and tighten 1, 3, 4 again. Hold the throttle about 25%crank again this will provide more pressure too and typically starts easy.

Congrads... I've been enjoying towing my RV too.

Swap the TPS to 0 to 100% then set the boost limit to 10 or 15 PSI then the wiretap stays out till the turbos spool then the fuel map follows the TPS fully. Because 100% TPS will equal 100% wiretap after the boost limit is reached. When you set the max tps less than 100% that means it will cap out early so if set at 65% the wiretap is maxed out at 65% tps value. Better to tune to boost than tps because the smoke. My economy tune... Now my performance tune. This can light my tire fairly easy.

Set max TPS to 100% you trying to cram the entire wiretap fuel table is a small span hence why it shudders. Set the min to 0% and set the max at 100%. Now wiretap works over the whole span of throttle.

Jack the axles and attempt to rock the tire up and down then left to right check for bad bearings. Even spin the tire feel for rough gritty bearings.

No. No effect on my truck. No change in smoke per se but spools right up and listen to the loud blowing whistle. Ive had a bolt blow out of my intake manifold. Even towing it rose a little on EGTs but continued towing my RV home 40 miles. This how I know boist leaks don't effect as deep as most claim. Oh the bolt was still on the manifold when I got home.

ok thats a clue.. Pull the alternator and have it tested for AC ripple and make sure to test the new replacement before leaving the store. Now you need to the W-T ground mod.

Since my Samsung S10+ has updated last im seeing messages about iQuad slowing down WiFi Connection. Bring this to light for @Quadzilla Power so it maybe looked at and possibly corrected.

HX35W would work short on the top end. DAP for 62/68/12 would be the common for 150 HP setup. Then I would like to know how much timing you running?

This time I took the Cummins and ice chest.

Error codes? Fuel pressure?

Double check the version of Android OS first. Lot of head units are not up to date and don't work well on older versions of Android. Should be an app for installing other apps. Google play typically. Just install the iQuad app.

Did you check wheel bearings? Sometimes when the unit bearing fails it makes noise rolling then apply the brakes that centers the rotor and it may go away for that time the brakes are applied. Myself I use economy brake pads (NAPA) and getting 200k per set. Little brake dust. Minor wear on the rotors at 350k. Clock is at 415k.

Sorry @JAG1 was a local trying to get home. Now I'm basically unemployed till I can get to Riggins for most of my jobs. Currently trying to enjoy 4th of July party in about an hour. (Nampa, ID)

Thanks @JAG1... Great guys too. Yup we can help you build Quadzilla tunes. Im getting pretty good at building tunes.