Mopar1973Man

Quadzilla display of gear position is not a data thing from the transmission but just a math calculation from the roads speed and gear ratio you provide in Quadzilla. Quadzilla has a bunch of math it can do to the data to show a gear position.

RockAuto sells that clutch safety switch. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2001,ram+2500+pickup,5.9l+l6+diesel+turbocharged,1366602,electrical-switch+&+relay,clutch+pedal+position+/+starter+safety+switch,16665

No help here with smoke tunes... Smokey tune just shows that you really don't know how to tune properly. Dirty tunes do not produce more power.

Have the valve body modified for lock up in any gear. Problem solved. Temps will fall. The only reason it gets hot is climbing grades with torque converter unlocked.

This is a 24V article but the method is the same.

I'm also looking for one...

Here you go... Then... We have the seal kit from Cummins at a fraction of the cost of Gould Gear.

Right out of the PDC there is a heavy red cable from the battery. Hook to that stud in the PDC. This will not rot or have corrosion issues. The other heavy cable is black is the charge lead. Don't hook directly to the battey. This typically turns in to a huge wiring nightmare.

I've rebuilt many boxes over the years for older Dodges and Ford trucks with the sagnaw steering boxes. Not my first rodeo... Doing seal kits in them are super easy, cheap and typically the steering box does not wear out just needs adjustments. There is no real book info of this slack adjustment, just over the years I found 1 to 1.5 turns out is about good for average slack. Like my OEM box Blue Top Steering said my box was like brand new yet and only needed one seal and out the door again in less than 1 hour was sold.

Either.... Bad injectors washing down cylinder walls and creating blowby. EGT's ran too high and did damage to a cylinder wall and/or piston. Using a washable filter and dusted out the engine rings are wiped out. Vacuum pump has a vacuum leak pressurizing the crankcase blowing oil out. Fuel leak into the crankcase front seal of the injection pump. My thought would be to do a compression test and find out where you sit. Then you'll know if its rebuild time our not.

Everything here is back to normal for the most part... Stores are fully restocked. Price of Gasoline in Boise is 1.999 a gallon but diesel still lingers at 2.659 roughly. The stay at home order has been extended to April 30th for Idaho. The biggest thing I still fight with is going to the city and needing a bathroom still hitting locked doors, no public restroom usage, etc. Like my last trip to Boise to drop off Eileen's Grandson back to his parents, I was hunting for a restroom just to pee, had to pick a side street and pee behind a tree in a industrial area. Stupid laws and really becoming tough for people that travel. Still hearing strange laws of cops turning people around at state line to go home. Never seen it yet with crossing into Washington or Oregon yet. Even heard of the local cops in McCall, ID turning people away because there plate are not Idaho, Valley county. Never seen it yet either. Other than that the weather here has been cold and nearly snowing. Dipping into the 20's every night and warming up barely to mid 50's. Get down to Lewiston or Boise its more like 60's and 70's for day time weather which is nice.

Not much. Stock transmission is rather marginal at best in stock form. The valve body is going to change up your shift. Like my 46RE has a Dynamic custom build and it bangs the gears yet just wonderfully. The difference is my 46RE is more like 47RE after Dynamic built the rest of the transmission for me. Milled the clutch baskets an 0.1 of inch and added in an extra disc in both overdrive and direct clutches. Plus with all the other goodies, levers and pistons, spring kit, etc. Even added extra oil cooling jets for the clutches.

D'Oh!

Good points...

All explained here... The original...

Typically the burp problem shows up if you been turning the steering wheel without the engine running will possibly burp fluid out. Since the pump is a restriction to the intake of the gear box so it doesn't refill the box as fast as the return to the pump. Hence it burps out the cover.

Stacking tuners just turns the throttle into a light switch. By the time you reach 30% of throttle by position the ECM will be at 100%. fuel rate.

ECM most likely took damage. P1475 will require the ECM to be rebuilt and repair the 5V generator for the sensors. This right here the excessive AC noise, damaged the ECM and the 5V generator internally.

@01cummins4ever Never got much light from the factory lights. Hence why there is a pair of 100w lights tied to the rear axle. Same problem with both trucks.

You might test that out during the dark of night.

If so you might have to send the Quadzilla back for warranty repairs.

At least by 1996 was RE styled transmissions. My 1996 has a 46RE. That has to be either 47RH or 47RE. 4 - How many forward gears 7 - Scale of 1 to 10 of how much torque it can take. R - Rear wheel drive vehicle. E - Electronic Shift 4th Gear. -or- H - Hydraulic Shift 4th Gear. Still all based on the original 727 Torqueflite transmission from the 60's. 46RE's are used in the half ton trucks. 47RH or 47RE were used in all 3/4 ton and 1 tons. Majority is 47RE. 48RE came out in the 3rd Gen body.

You need some slack in the gear to prevent binding up over the center position. You add slack to prevent it from binding up. If 1.5 turns is still stiff add another 0.5 turn out. If you removed the box and rebuilt it you would do the same thing bottom out and set you slack. Just the output shaft has nothing attached. So backing off is easy because no drag link hanging.

Basically if you keep twisting the adjustment downward or tightening the output shaft is push down into the the rack of the gear. Now once bottom is found you lift up with your hand and push the output shaft back up as you get your slack adjustment. The weight of the drag link and the pitman arm prevents the adjustment screw to lift the full load. Just using the screw you'll get roughly 3/4 of turn and it will stop, till you lift the pitman arm up pushing the output shaft back up since the adjustment screw can't lift the weight. Looking at the photo the adjustment screw is on the other side. Pushing downward or towards us in the photo. The drag link is hanging from the output shaft. Soo as the adjustment goes tighten (downward) int the gear rack then it will hit bottom. Now lifting up allowing the screw to lift the output shaft back up from bottom to set your slack.