Mopar1973Man

Typically injectors only last about 75k to 100k miles. Aftermarket injectors a lot of times are popped low so stock pressure is 310 bar. Aftermarket some times can be popped lower 300 or 305 bar. Bottom limit is 293 bar. Below 293 bar the spray pattern gets larger droplets and spray issue. Sticking and hanging injectors can occur from poor assembly and testing process (or no pop testing was done).

FASS 150 is just like AirDog 150. Spring and check ball. To adjust fuel pressure you shim the spring with washers.

Which coupled with Smarty tuner that tune is based on throttle position so this will change the TV cable position also. Just increasing TQ Management will cause the TV cable to be lower and shift differently. This is why when you change Smarty TQ setting or Smarty tunes the shift on the transmission will be different.

The only thing I will warn about hi beams look nearl the same when there is no tall objecto bounce light off. Like open field will look the same with hi or lo beam. Now running the canyon or forest roads the light bounces back off trees and rock faces. Now you can clearly see the hi and lo beams. Yup. I had the same problem and swap the pins. This is because the common pin on the bulbs are +12V and not GROUND. Then the hi and lo beam legs are switch GROUND. You did the H1 mini did you? @hdpwipmonkey Then you did the switch back LEDs!

Yeah, It will take some time but I'll get there. Spring is coming and I know my business will take off like typically with A/C jobs and repairs. The only thing I'm not exactly happy with is all the stuff pulling me sideways for the moment. Like I told Eileen I will be happy when I have a normal month of just going to work and coming home. Right now I'm in a state of confusion because I knew how to operate under the schedule of dialysis and work. Now to wrap my mind around a normal work week is still out of reach for the time. Like this week I've been gone since Monday evening. Now I'm home for Wednesday night and now heading back to Weiser and Nampa. Like just looking out the window at the firewood pile I need to be home to split wood and bring some in. I'm on the heat pump for now being I'm leaving again this morning.

The only problem is the 1st Gen bed where straight beds. 2nd Gen and forward seem to be a bed taper. It narrower at the front or rear I'd have to measure. I ran my old topper from my 1972 Dodge on my 2002 Dodge for few years. If I recall the rear is narrower than the front. Still fits just there is bit more overhang.

That pretty awesome. Go through the trouble of milling and cleaning up Hummer wheels to fit your truck!

Look the pump motor over closely. Both FASS and AirDog have bled holes between the motor and the pump. If the shaft seal fails it should be bleeding fuel out this hole and may drip or keep the base wet with fuel. The pump motor could be full of fuel too.It could be also I've seen a few FASS pump bed side mount and been impact with water, mud, and snow so much the brushes and bearing have taken damage from water and debris intrusion. This could be part of the reason for popping fuses.

Don't feel bad. I'm going to be pulling my transmission for the 3rd time. 2nd gear has a failed syncro. I can clutch and try and it grinds every time. Now if I clear the shaft but shift 1st or 3rd first then back to 2nd its smooth as butter. I know my 1st and 2nd are still carbon fiber syncros. Under warranty and will be repaired but I'm getting tired of pulling this transmission and losing fluid (ATF and Mobil 50). This has been going since summer of 2019 yet when I broke 5th gear and still not right. Then 3rd and 4h syncros, now 2nd syncro. Weller thinks its the clutch but I'm pretty sure its not. You don't even need to press it all the wall to thew floor to disengage the clutch. Engages at the top of the pedal swing. Again I can clear the shaft by hitting 1st or 3rd first to sync the shaft then hit 2nd to launch.

Because under load the timing drop very low to as deep as 8 degree BTDC. This keeps the cylinder pressures lower and not likely to pop head gaskets. Where the Quadzilla could possibly hold timing more advanced even cold. You have to look at the entire timing curve stock to understand. 20% engine load and the timing drops super quick into a deep retard.

WTS is only light that is controlled directly by the ECM. If there is a WTS light issue, or wiring issue there would be P0381 code. ECM and VP44 are ground directly to the battery terminal on the passenger side. No body ground for PCM, ECM or VP44 these three are directly ground to the battery. No body grounds for these. IAT sensor and Battery temperature sensor control the WTS light for duration. These are a must for proper WTS and grid heater function. All other gauge cluster functions are pulled from the CCD Network. If there is any P1698 or P1694 codes then you have a CCD network issue.

Gauge wise, I still love the ISSPro EV2. Like last night I didn't grab my cellphone to the fire call. Quadzilla ran like normal but headless, no display to look at. ISSPro's cover me with boost, pyro, fuel pressure and trans temp. I love the idea I've got the red warning light programmed for the limits I want. Boost is 0 to 60 PSI gauge and got the boost limit set for above 44 PSI. Fuel Pressure is 0 to 30 PSI gauge and got the limit set for below 14 PSI. EGT's is 0 to 1,600 gauge and got the limit set for above 1,200F. Trans Temp is 100 to 320 gauge and got the limit set for above 220F. Now I don't even watch the gauges but I can tell but location of the red light what I need to do. Wonderful design. I want to catch up with @Chris O. and see if there is a way to wire into the check gages and chime. So if the red light pop on any ISSPro then the check gage light will pop and chime too. Dreamin' but maybe its possible.

Ok... It's time to start a new page in my life. My mother @MoparMom has passed on (rest in peace) then I've got my wonderful girlfriend @Wet Vette that has been at my side the entire time. I've been super busy as of yet between taking care of last few thing for Mom death certificate and Eileen's medical appointments. I'm doing good and got my mind focus on moving on. Don't get me wrong I still have my weak moments and shed a tear or two with certain triggers. Even that is getting better. Give me a about one more month and then I'm going to be back here really working the website. I plan on getting back to article writing and being here on the site to help people more. I won't have all the long hours of driving like the last 4 years. I'm convinced that with a bit more effort I could really make this website pop. We are clearing about 2,200 people per day on the site. Like the conversation over on @JAG1 camping club I plan on having the RV ready for travel this spring. I need to get my transmission pulled and sent back for warranty work for 2nd gear. Even want to have the ATV ready too to load in the back of thew truck for local stuff like firewood hunting, camping, etc. The other thing I want to get my shop rolling, the fact I'm the only mechanic in the area now. I've got a huge chance at really building up a good local mechanics business. I've got lots to do do done at my other shop at Russ's place in Pollock. I've about got all 3 bays clean up the way I want it. After spring gets here I want to get the yard clean up more for parking. I've got to admit I know I'm pretty tired from all the long driving even now I'm still running back to Boise today. This why I'm saying about another month of so to get rolling 100%. I plan on taking some time off and getting to meet my new family and other mother (Eileen's mom) then I'll have a grandmother (Eileen's Grandmother) to go visit few hours from there. I'm might of lost my own mother but I've got another family that accepted me. So this is going be part of my healing time I'm going to do soon. I've got a ton load to do at home still like going through all of Mom's stuff and get things gather up for donations, trash, yard sale, etc. This is the other part I've got to do that a bit tough. Like I've told friends I'm not going to hang on to all of Mom's stuff I got to move on and look forward, yeah there will be some keepsakes. Both houses are just a mess right now with boxes and stuff scattered between storage, the guest house, and the main house. I've got big pieces of furniture that will need to be sold. I've got walls to paint and carpet to replace. Last night I ran my first fire call in 4 years. Even that felt great to do once again. Nice to get back to the thing I use to enjoy. It also made me think I need to re-order the house for what I'm going to be doing. Like my fire bag need to be repacked and kept at the front door for the next call. I'll be able to jump back in my Station #1 Captain position once again and doing all the fire truck repairs like I did years ago. Like riding a bicycle you'll remember pretty quick how to do it. I did do something fun for once and I gotta share. We need to be in Nampa area on Monday evening being Eileen's doctors appoint was at 8am next morning. We packed up a bit early and went down and went to a concert. This happen to be my first one in Idaho. Breaking Benjamin and Korn at the Ford Center in Nampa.

Won't be sorry, worth every penny!

My 4 years of running back and forth to Ontario I've ran Hankook ATm 235/85 R16 (31.7") and 245/75 R16 (30.5") tires. Excellent winter traction still running 55 MPH in snow. Got at least 60k miles from a set of tires no problem. Now that that has ended I'm might have to revisit my ideas on tires for something a bit more for offroad being this spring I'll be back to cutting firewood again. Excellent fuel economy, low rolling resistance.

I'm running 7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar no issues all the way to minus temperatures. Starts very easy at +25*F and above without grid heaters. Last tank I got 21.25 MPG. I'm going to be rolling with the Cummins this morning back to Weiser, ID and then on to Nampa, ID to hit Eileen's storage.

Told ya... Just made a fire call for the first time last night and tickled the HIDs were in my Cummins. I was able to see deer along the road side very easily. Still gotta adjust the headlights in the 1996 Dodge. LED installed but the aim is wrong and too high.

I run 170*F warm up limit. This runs the super advanced timing of the stock ECM till warmed up then flips to my bit retarded timing after the 170*F. I checked on level 0 stock will twist about 21 to 22 degrees at 2K RPM then once warm up mode completes then it drops to about 19 degrees. It's worth looking at Level 0 sometimes to see where stock is vs your tune.

Quadzilla doesn't use much from sensors. It's mostly stand alone fuel and timing. Once Qyadzilla comes online past warm up runs it's own timing and fuel maps.

No Canned tuner. You can't change timing values. Only Quadzilla can. Well Smarty Touch could but it cost 1800 for 60 HP tuner.

Yup I agree with alternator check. Verify the blue wire for 12V at the field leads.

Napa radiator in my truck. No issues.

Same here. My problem back with MoparMom see tends to be slow so I was typically running faster than normal to make up time. Now that is all a wash now and there is no schedules so now my MPG is starting to climb.

Cut wind drag and drove slower. No engine mods, fully stock.

Holding cruise timing too long will hurt MPG's. I'm only running 20% with 4* of cruise timing. You can run more cruise timing on lower percentage of loads. Being my normal cruise load is 17% at 65 MPH I get to keep the cruise timing quite a bit. My base timing is retarded for local high cetane fuel which will shortly start to be reduced soon. 3.55 gears with 35 inch tires are not going to work. That puts your final ratio to the ground too low. 3.21:1 to the ground is your final ratio this will add enough drag to equal towing my 31 foot RV. Optimal final ratio is 3.55 to 3.73. I reverse my setup dropped the 265's and went to 245/75 R16 which is 3.69:1 to the ground, my cruising RPM is optimal at 2.500 RPM at 82 MPH. This has been twisting out 20 to 21 MPG for the last 2 years at 80 MPH tested many times even datalogged.