Mopar1973Man

CCD Network BUS issues. Most likely the PCM side being it creates the network. The instrument cluster sets the Bus Bias Voltage. Use a code reader I'm going to assume at this point there is a P1698 code.

Yes you need about 200 amp breaker. You want some breathing room. The Grid heater will still push that to full load so the breaker has to be above the maximum amp rating of the alternator. The breaker is not for the charging amperage. It for the total shorted amperage which is typically above the alternator rating. That why I didn't buy a 140 amp breaker for mine and bought a 150 amp breaker.

South Bend Con OFE clutch this was my second one. The Mobil 50 SAE transmission fluid stops the gear roll over noise completely. Silent operation. After seeing the pilot bearing not in the flywheel I knew there would be other problems. I promise I'll get photos one way or another. I'll talk to Abe as well about that.

About 130k miles.

No problem. I was being slow on my shop floor. 3 hours to get what I done. I've got strap tricks.

South Bend Con OFE.

Transmission is out. Clutch is ruined. Where this whole problem stems from is the pilot bearing walked out of the flywheel and was up against the spline part of the input shaft. The input shaft bearing is loose and worn. The hub of the friction disc is damaged. I've got chunks of the friction disc hub springs laying the bottom of the bellhousing. Flywheel is damaged where the pilot bearing was wearing a new groove. Friction disc is just about at the end of life anyways. I wasn't able to get one bolt out of the rear cover. I wanted to look in there so bad and see 5th gear damage.

Samsung device has had issues about importing tune files. There should be a IMPORT button in the Custom tune area. Typically Android if the iQuad app is open and you tap on the downloaded file it should open directly to iQuad app and import the tune. When you contact Quadzilla about this make sure to give them the info on the device too. Android version etc.

That is only temporary. With the fast action of the constant pulses it will pull the air pocket out in time. Even my air brake line becomes solid fuel over time. The only protect after that is distance. The pulses tend weaken with distance. So your grease gun hose is what like 16 inches to 24 inches compared to 5 feet of air brake line which also seem to be the average line length for mechanical gauges.

I'm running a upgrade mainshaft all ready but this is not the typical 5th gear nut issue. Both reverse and 5th both create a huge amount of noise. 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th are fine. Drove it home the 125 miles at 55 MPH in 4th no issues really. The part that that is concerning if you clutch in and toss it into neutral there is a bangging noise. Then there is something grabbing like attempting to lock up solid. Warranty long gone. I'm going to get it yanked out and open the tail cover and see what happened. I'm thinking bearing failure possibly. Now that I've got the shop. I could yank that transmission out pretty quick like in about 2 hours. Worlds of difference being on a two post and laying on garage floor. I've already called Weller Truck in Boise and talked to Abe and he's just waiting for the transmission to be pulled and dropped off.

With a heavy heart, something broke in the transmission running along at 80 MPH. 5th gear failed with a horrid grinding sound. 1st to 4th still works find but there is a loose object for sure like a 5th gear nut. But you can't put it 5th it grinds bad.

Actually yesterday I got some spare time and managed to get quite a bit done yesterday. Managed to clear out an office for myself. Then started sorting out tools and getting toolbox geared up for my style of work. @Me78569 even called me during this time. Talking about wanting to do a Raffle on the site. Like I got to play with old school stuff. Like an 1976 Chevy camper van and change fuel filter and now have to change a fuel pump. Then I've got a 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 with steering issues. Already has a Redhead steering box. All steering linkage looks good and tight. It does have 285's for tires. Then the ear for the parking brake cable on the rear driver side axle broke off. Then another good one the blend door broke off inside the HVAC case. Already has a heater treater update. Vacuum issue as well being the defrost is stuck on. Fun times coming. (Hidden in the shop) Double stacked.

But its got a air pocket. Then the pressure gauge isn't hooked up to the stub. I've can show water hammer... Not to mention every time I see grease gun hose the sensor is just flopping around the engine bay or zip tied to a power steering hose.

Might be true. Tall grass get wound up in the belt. Driving through thick mud or snow. I'm would be concerned with loose object that might be possible to trip the belt off the pulleys or break the belt. Major mudslide happed up here no long ago where mud cover the highway. Fiddle Creek, Idaho 

Sad to see that happen. Make sure to hook up the new owner to the website.

That rubber grommet is the exhaust pipe hanger.

Duh... I'm the deadbeat, that is getting a free ride on the two post for some work. Wanna come down and do it for me?

There is no ground terminal in the PDC. Both of the studs are +12V from the battery. The black cable is the charge lead from the alternator. The actual PDC ground is on the front driver side fender near the headlight.

Like I just sold a EFI tuner to a local gent here for 2012 Ram 6.7L he's not tech savvy nor does he own a computer. Not many up here want to tune their truck.

Not have the pleasure of playing with a full programmable tuner. I've used EFI Live tuners. But these are preprogrammed. Never found anyone wanting a true programmable tuner up here.

I've heard of that but never seen it done as of yet.

I gotta admit it was nice to head down to the shop and stuff my beast on the lift and do an oil change, adjust my parking brake, rotate the tires, and lube the rest of the steering and driveline. I was able to bust it out super fast compare to at home. Grabbing jack stands, jack up the front axle, set the stands, then jack up the rear axle set the stands. Still laying on the floor to do an oil change and grease the rest. Sure finding out fast I've got muscles I've not used in awhile being now I'm standing most of the time and my poor head is getting beat up. I gotta remember to look up before walking under or duck and keep my head down till cleared. Still gotta... Flush the brake system Flush the power steering system Flush the cooling system Install a new thermostat Install a new fan belt

As far as I know all tuner only affect the engine. They do not have the capacity to alter transmission shifting. Typically tuner will change the amount of throttle required to keep moving. This in turn changes the throttle valve position on the transmission and changes how the transmission shift. At least for the old 98.5 to 02 Dodge's the PCM controls the transmission. Now on the 2005+ truck the ECM and PCM have merged together. Still in all I don't know of any programmer that can affect transmission performance.

Look at it this way... The minimum oil pressure is 10 PSI at idle and 30 PSI at 2,000 RPM. How long would you expect an engine to last with oil pressure dipping down close to the minimum values? Now VP44 is cooled and lubed with only fuel. The overflow vale is only open at 14 PSI and up. Now if your pulling a grade and the pressure is dipping to 10 to 12 PSI would be like engine oil pressure dropping to 25 to 27 PSI at 2,000 RPM. It might not fail today but it does add up to extra wear on the VP44.

Could you post a picture of these ports? Could be a few other things.