Mopar1973Man

We switched over to subscription based. https://mopar1973man.com/subscriptions/ BBCode is obsolete here. No longer really used. This is all up to date HTML5 coding not like CF.com with old school PHP software. Here you go... https://mopar1973man.com/settings/signature/ No longer here... All subscription based now. There is a lot of the information tied up in the article section. This coming winter I'm going to be writing more articles for the 4th Gen. We already have raided the Mopar storehouse for information just need the time to convert PDF files into HTML5 coding and do all the SEO coding (Google) too. I apologise for being short on current info for the 4th gens but I'll get caught up. Personal note I'm a cancer survivor so I'm currently working mostly to pay my hospital bills. This why I'm bit behind on getting articles wrote for the site.

Welcome to the family... What are you looking to do? What are your goals exactly?

Quick fix... If you have a flat/tapered ferrel. You can use a double taper ferrel. The trick is managing to file one side down flat. but not too much because to much filing will make it to the point you can compress the ferrel ino the tubing. Still can damage your tubing again doing this. This is why I fell in love with PTC fittings. I got all metal PTC fittings and so far 6 years and still going strong and leak free. I got the fitting from NAPA.

Disregard the P1693. It's just a flag pointing there there is other error codes could be in either module. Now follow the diagnostic on the PCM.

This is done by measuring the voltage loss at different places along the cable as in the article. Better the voltage the less amperage required as shown below. Watts (load) = Volts (Supplied) x Amps (Draw) So if The starter load is 8,400 watts this means 12 Volt system has to supply 700 amps. Now if you lose 0.2 or more volts that means that that has to be made up in amps. Wattage load will not change typically. 8,400 Watts = 12.6 Volts x 666 Amps 8,400 Watts = 12 Volts x 700 Amps 8,400 Watts = 11.5 Volts x 730 Amps As you can see the more voltage that can make it to the starter will require less amperage to do the same work. This is just an example and not actual numbers. It does show the mechanics of electricity and how a weak connection can create more amperage draw typically showing as a burnt connection. Larger the cable gauge the less voltage loss in distance.

I'm the reverse I've had plenty of compression fittings and tubing fails in my past and not having a means of replacing the ferrel and getting the line hooked back up. End up heat the end of the tubing and crushing the plastic shut to get home a few times. Then find out the local stores don't have the right ferrel for your setup. End up changing fitting because of a change of ferrels.

Yup. it helps a bunch being I see -20*F to -40*F up here every winter at least one day to one week. Never gelled once yet.

Simply Auto... https://www.simplyauto.app/ Yes you can run more than one vehicle. I paid for the $4 version and working excellent. Can even back up your logs to a Excel sheet (LibreCalc for Linux). Like I currently log both my 1996 Dodge and the 2002 Dodge. The diesel I've got over 4 years of fuel logs just about and still working good. Maintenance notices will pop up after filling the tank when time or mileage is exceeded.

I've got a tidbit to toss in here... I made a few phone calls and found out from Eric at Vulcan Performance that the 2010+ intank lift pumps are actually pretty good pumps now. For stockish truck you could use one possibly. He explained you would have to modify the lift pump module so it would fit the tank. Ive got a friend in Ontario that is willing to be the test dummy for this and will be soon retrofitting this 2010+ pump in his 2002 Dodge truck.

PTC fittings. Push To Connect fittings. No ferrels, no compression nut. PTC are seal sealing and work very well for low pressure applications. Reusable. If there is any tubing problems you can just simply push the collar back to release the tubing. Not you can trim off the bad part or just replace. Push the tubing back in and it self seals and locks.

Totally agree... I've used all the big names at some point and broken every one of them at least once. Now I typically just buy the harbor freight stuff. Craftsman, Snap-on, etc are expensive and don't last any longer than a HF socket either. I was trying to loosen a blue loctite bolt on my calipers and it took all 5 of my sockets (which failed) and where of name brands. Then went out and bought a cheap HF socket set put the cheater bar back on and pulled with everything I had the socket held up and the bolt came free.

Here is the FSM version of testing...

Thanks, but kind of late. I called NAPA locally they claimed they had no listing for a oil cooler gasket. Figures... Most likely a greenhorn parts person. Mopar dealer and Cummins dealers are the worst for price and have the highest absolute price. Which 99% of the time I'm sure you can buy the very same part for a fraction of the price elsewhere.

Not much better than my last purchase from Cummins. The oil cooler gasket for nearly $70 dollars.

Don't grease gun hose does absolutely nothing. The sensor will absolutely fail. Too short and hose doesn't suppress nothing. Yup. Because the hose is rated for 4,000 PSI to 10 to 20 PSI is like a solid brick wall. It just passes the pulse right up the chain to the sender. Again too short to allow for travel to fade the pulsers. Hence why I say 5 foot or more. Also let me know. I can program the warning lights on the gauges as well. I've got the kit for jacking in and programming.

I would do the same thing. I would do work for food or trade.

Again still WAY CHEAPER than Cummins OEM at $70 dollars a piece.

Actually the chain is tight. Its a pain in the rear to get the cover back on. The main rear shaft when you lift the shaft the slack comes right out.

Yes sir. Forward at the transmission was dry. The two case halves where they meet was the leak right on top passenger side.

Nope. Still working perfect.

Typically I just head over to Ontario, OR for tires. Save on the sales taxes in Oregon. Then I've dealt with Tire Factory (formerly Big O Tires) for years. Michael the owner has always done good deals on tires. Most likely go back there as well again. I've also got a friend in Riggins, (Steve Crump) he's been know to get me killer deals on tires as well.

Basically... End to end it should ohm out ZERO ohms. Then end to ground should show infinite ohm to make sure there is no shorts to ground. I would have to say send the VP44 back most likely a bad PSG on top. Who did you buy from for a replacement VP44?

TCC is shot in the torque converter. That should not happen. @Dynamic does awesome work and everything is absolutely spotless and clean. His rebuilds are absolutely worth the price. I got the 46RE rebuilt and upgraded to be more like a 47RE. Upgrade both the direct clutch and the overdrive clutch. Added the oil cooling holes to spray ATF on the clutch packs. Modified the valve body to have firm shifts and upgraded all the other stuff like the levers for the bands.

391k miles. Never had a 5th gear nut problem and never broke the input shaft. OEM shaft I broke at the 3rd/4th shift ring. Now running the upgraded mainshaft. Make sure if you going to tight that again make sure to get the sockets and the torque spec. Don't quote me be I think the upgraded shaft is like 600 foot pounds on the nut. This is why I laugh at all the YouTube videos of guys hammer and chisel the nut on and then tack weld the 5th gear nut. This will not work and will fail again. Still currently using the Mobil 50 SAE Trans Fluid no issues to date. Working awesome and heading to 150k miles.