Mopar1973Man

Yes, you can reseal the transfer case without removing... Everything out of my way. AirDog 165 removed, skid plate removed, transfer case drained. Once you take off the tailshaft cover. There is a snap ring but there is no holes for the snap ring. It looks like the silencer ring snap ring. I made a tool to remove that snap ring super easy. I took out my typical snap ring tips and took 2 nails and cut them to length. The beat the tips flat and filed then slightly to make them even. Then with a bit of light rubber hammer tapping the back cover came off. For all the years of running ATF+3 in the transfer case it looks good in there. (Yup, I didn't follow OEM specs) The magnet is in the bottom below the pick up screen for the oil pump. Just light graphite dust. No metal per se. The case was sealed with black RTV from the factory. I upgraded from black to Ultra Grey RTV. Lightly coated the edge and then reassembled. Closer inspection of where the leak was at the case is a bit thin looking between the faces. The RTV was gone. This go around I made sure to make that area just a bit thicker with RTV and made sure it oozed out some. I'm leaving the case alone at this point to dry and cure completely before filling with fluid. Project stopped at this point with the case assembled.

Done some digging and getting closer. Robertshaw manufactures that style of thermostat. Cummins... Robertshaw 330 series looks almost the same. Commonly used in racing applications still sold through Summit racing. Now I'm trying to find a contact information for Robertshaw Automotive division. Then to verify the thermostat Cummins has to Robertshaw number if possible. These thermostats are sold for a mere $20 on Summit. This might be the break where Cummins owners could buy $20 thermostat from Robertshaw WITHOUT the Cummins logo and $40-60 price tag.

ECM only. Truck only needs a ECM to run. PCM can fail or be missing and still start and run (drive).

Don't know what to say. Never rebuilt a carb or had anything plugged up from fuel. Always starts every time and never had any fuel system related issues. No stabil, no ethanol free fuel, just use and store as usual. No problems. 2 Stihl chainsaws 3,000 PSI power washer Lawn mower (zero turn) Wood splitter 20 ton 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 2008 Honda Rancher 6kw generator 2kw generator 4kw generator Stihl weed wacker I think that all of them. As for the transfer case. I'm going to get that snap ring off the shaft and open it up clean the lip and reseal it. There is ZERO sealant left on the face from the little 1/2" gap I can the sealant is gone. Just a machined flat face, no o-ring, gasket or anything. Just flat machine edge.

At this time the owner does not have plans for AirDog or FASS. He is thinking of upgrading to a 1/2" big line kit from Vulcan and replacing his lift pump. We have a crazy idea to try but I'm not going to tell what we are up to till we find out if it will work or not. Little tip from Vulcan Performance we are going to do some testing on. Just remove the banjo in the bottom and replace with the tapped banjo. That all we did. Then hooked the plumbing to the open port now. We went this route being he's going to want the gauge for a trip to Cally very soon. Just to protect his VP44. No. None. Actually the setup I've got is better lest restrictions. The stock line is 6mm ID and the banjo are even more restrictive. 1/2" is the best. Only a 1 to 2 PSI drop from idle to WOT with 500 HP. 3/8" is going to have more pressure drop than 1/2" from idle to WOT like 3 to 5 PSI drop. 3/8" is OK for stockish setups. More power needs more volume. Best to just go big and not even worry.

Where the case halves come together on the passenger side on top. Not the vent hose I've double check hose and it on the driver side. I don't bother with spending high price fuel to store. Ethanol free fuel is super expensive up here and doesn't do much. Still goes bad too. Just the first tank of fuel is really poor on MPG like my fuel logs on the last tank is like 11 MPG. Mostly idle time, sitting, start move out of the shop and parked in the yard. Next tank will be back to normal again. Should take a peek at my 20+ year old chain saw. Never seen ethanol free fuel. 6kw generator, nope. Lawn mower, nope, power washer, nope. Never had one issue with ethanol fuel. Everything starts as it suppose too. Done several tests on ethanol vs non-ethanol. The only difference is it drives up the cost of operation. Ethanol free fuel typically is about 20 to 22 cents per mile. Versus ethanol fuel as low as 13.6 cents per mile. Not worth it to run ethanol free fuel for the cost of operation. Like biodiesel vs petroleum diesel cost of operation is lower on petroleum diesel (13 cents/mile).

I had so much ATF leaking by this point everything from the transfer case back is covered in ATF soaked dirt. I had to power wash the entire under side of the truck just so it didn't rain ATF on me. Still had a quite a bit of fluid in the case but leaking out the top still. I've got sealant and time today hopefully finish this up. I'm going to leave the Cummins down for now too. I've got other things to do as well. Brake fluid flush, new fan belt, coolant flush, power steering flush, oil change, and rotate the tires as well. When I went down to move the 1996 Dodge the battery was dead. Looking back on the fuel logs it was 4 months ago (April) I got fuel in Little Red. Maybe I should get it a lap or two down to Ontario.

Stopped by a friends house yesterday he was showing off his new Kenwood Stereo in his Nissan truck. I had my arm rest on the roof his truck. A hornet landed on my right wrist near my watch I jumped and swiped the hornet right under my watch band. Talk about all hell breaking loose. I was hoping around attempting to unfasten my watch in a huge hurry. Needless to say I got drilled hard core, but he didn't live long either. That was a clue to go home.

P1689 is no communication between the ECM and VP44. Read over this and check your wiring for damage.

I no longer use any prefilter (sock). They seem to create more issues than the BHAF by itself. I just install the BHAF and then reset my maintenance logs for the air filter. When the mileage comes up then I just replace it period. I don't even worry about blowing it out or nothing. Just chuck it in the trash and install a new one. Yeah I've got a few things to take care of. Cummins is being pull out of active duty and switch to the 1996 Dodge Ram for a time.

PCM is what starts the CCD Network. The cluster is what provides the bus bias voltage for the rest. ECM can run as a standalone and run the engine but can't get any data from or send it to the PCM. Should have 2.49 and 2.51 volts on the CCD Network lines after everything booted up and at rest. 

Today I've started this project. Thought it would be easy but its not. Pull the rear drive shaft. Then remove my AirDog fuel pump. Then drain all the ATF out of the transfer case. I've got the bolts out and the cover started off but no dice. I stopped right there and quit. Checking the FSM and seeing that you have to remove the tailshaft cover and there is a snap ring in the tail area holding at a bearing.

When the grid heater light remain on the ECM detected excessive return flow from the injectors and this is a sign of injector failure is currently happening. Double filter your fuel does help a bunch. So having a another filter before the stock filter will aid in extending the life of injectors. When injectors fail typically its the solenoid side and the fuel pressure can't be held good enough and bleed out the return rail. This allows for the pintle to remain open longer than it should or all the time washing the cylinder walls. Typically they wear out right around 100k to 150k miles. Yeah I've seen people still driving past that but typically now the injector(s) are hanging open and washing the piston rings out. This why the engines typically have excessive blowby by about 300k miles and require rebuilding. Just because its still starting and running good doesn't mean the injectors are working properly. Best suggestion is to at least pull the injections and send them into DAP and they can bench test all them and tell you which ones have failed or going to fail soon.

Might want to tell to the 2012 owner in my yard. Then the 3 others in town with the grid heater light on.

If he'll drop $4,000 off the price or provide new injectors before the sale then I would. Just remember after 100k miles you got to replace the injectors again.

So far mine be going for quite some time no leaks or issues with the air brake line.

You can make that bracket fairly easy. @mr.obvious used a piece of angle iron from a bed frame and then drilled two hole close to the size of the fitting. Then soldered the fittings in place. Very strong little bracket. Yes. You correct fuel pressure and boost sensors. Yes, fuse #5 does work with dimming feature. You can burn up 5 foot of line really quick by hiding the line in looms and different places. Tapped banjo bolt. This provided a 1/8 NPT fitting and rest is as you see. Yup. The banjo bolt goes in the fitting under the fuel filter for a tap point.

My OEM original failed at 50k miles stuck close.

That is a 58mm thermostat. I just check with Rocky Mountain Cuymmins. Try again that is the CORRECT application period. Again, Cummins does not manufacture thermostats. They buy from other manufactures and rebox them with there number that's all. It the correct part but the part did not hold the temperature properly. Period. My point is to go to the manufacture of the thermostat and buy it directly WITHOUT the logo. I would love to just know who is producing the thermostat and buy directly from the manufacture since Cummins does not manufacture them. Then you can still have the same thermostat as Cummins sells but from the manufacture at a fraction of the cost with the same 190*F spec. I called Rocky Mountain Cummins and it is the correct thermostat. It is the correct application for 2000 to 2002 5.9L Cummins ISB engines. This is what Cummins is supplying currently. Again I've double checked with Rocky Mountain Cummins in Boise, Idaho. Here is the same number in Mopar. https://www.amazon.com/Chrysler-5015708AC-Genuine-Thermostat/dp/B00G0PKV94 Here is Cummins again. https://puredieselpower.com/dodge-products/98.5-02-dodge-5.9l-cummins-190-thermostat.html https://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/3946849/ Please explain to all these part vendors how they screwed up please...

I do! Then I can buy it at the manufacture for a reduced cost WITHOUT the logo. Thermostat the spec is on the bottom of the bulb of when it opens. 180, 190, 192, 195, 200. Etc. There is no other spec. If there is more specs you best off posting them up because I don't know of any other spec. Both my truck and @mr.obvious both have the 58mm bore. Both are 2002 trucks. Try again. That Cummins thermostat never made grade below 190*F. Umm... Not correct? Try again, Same thermostat. Please tell Cummins and T-Bred they are listing the wrong one! https://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/3946849/ Cummins Thermostat (190 Degrees) - 00-02 5.9L Cummins - 3946849 Correct application, try again! Just never made the grade temps under 190*F constantly. Just called Rocky Mountain Cummins had him verify for sure 00-02 5.9L Cummins - 3946849 this is the correct thermostat and what you see posted above is CORRECT! This is not a wrong application. This is correct for the 00 to 02 trucks for sure.

Again... Cummins and Mopar do not produce any thermostats. Being I've been working on Dodge trucks now over 17 years and seen several version of Cummins thermostats and not one ever looks the same. Even the new one from Cummins will not look like your past Cummins thermostat. Cummins and Mopar both just select another thermostat and stock it with a heavy marked up price. All the digging I've do on finding who manufactures thermostats for our trucks and what Cummins or Mopar supplies are always a different manufacture, some times they are the same thermostats as NAPA. Some times they look totally wild like the recent 2019 posted above. Still I tend to follow aftermarket parts more so because they upgrade quickly and issues typically get resolved fast. Still to this day all the NAPA thermostats I've installed in Dodge, Ram, Chevy, Ford, Subaru, etc. Never had to pull one out yet because it failed. Not like I've got selection of parts stores up here the only thing up here is NAPA period. Now in Ontario, OR there is Autozone and other chain stores.

Yeah I just called ol' Eric and getting info for another member and his truck and he's still making fuel system parts and kits.

https://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/3946849/ Exactly what I've seen in Ontario, OR. 190*F Cummins thermostat. Still right application for 2002 Dodge Ram 5.9L HO. Just his was running way low in temperature never reaching 190*F. Just for information purpose... The 200°F Gates is junk. Wild swings as high as 220°F to as low as 175°F. Not stable and very very wild swings up and down. All 3 NAPA are still good and serviceable. The two 190°F were swapped out during coolant flush schedule they hover at 195°F. I figured I'd play with a 180°F to see if there is any gain but runs too cold to be much good in the winter time this one runs about 183°F. All 3 of these are right in the normal range where they should be. You can see the changes. The small mouth is the old design and the larger mouth is the updated. My current 190°F looks like the 180°F on the right.

Just use your mobile device to download the tune. Then once the device has the file just start the iQuad app and then now hit the import button. This should bring up the tune and ask if you want to rename the tune. No PC required. Then I've created a tuning article... I've got to add the oil temp finding yet but the rest of the article is very helpful. Basically install the transmission temp sensor in the oil test port by the oil filter. If the oil temp is about -10*F below coolant your timing is about right. If the oil temperature is above coolant then your over advancing timing and burning way too much fire against the cylinder walls flooding the coolant jacket with too much heat which prevents the oil cooler from cooling the oil properly.

Any time you adding tubing to a fuel system it is wise to have a shut off valve at the tap point. Then you can have the snubber. This just a precaution if the tubing is to fail you can just simply turn the valve off and then continue driving to home or a repair shop to get things fixed. 5 foot of tubing helps reduce the finally pulse after the snubber. More distance the better. This is one of the killer of fuel pressure gauges when there no enough distance. Air Brake is more robust of a tubing. It will not become brittle with time and can handle being push around out of your way without failure or breaking like nylon typically did. Air Brake is small enough to route for mechanical gauges without the need of thick braid hose which is extremely difficult. That is super easy. I just did a gauge install for @mr.obvious in Ontario, OR. We got two fuse taps and one when into Fuse 9 for power, then the illumination into Fuse 5. As for routing the gauge wiring I hooked the sensors all up and the at the point at which they all met I then wrap the loom with electrical tap and pull it all there the boot in the dash. Then you need to remove the dash bezel and headlight switch. I pull the loom up there the dash and using the headlight switch hole to finish the pull to the a-pillar. About 2 hours to put together. When it was all done the whole thing looks very factory looking even the sensor brack @mr.obvious created and even updated my bracket. Looks awesome.