Mopar1973Man

The solenoid noise is most likely the prime cycle of the injectors. They all chatter a bit as the key is ON and waiting for grid heaters.

Moved as requested...

Normal. Mine does the exact same thing. After running under load and coasting to a light out of gear it will surge or lope mildly. Once you come to complete stop the lope stops. Nothing that can be done about it. In my case it mostly the pop pressure my 7 x 0.010 (150 HP) are set for at 320 bar which creates this mild lope coasting to a stop. You could switch the Quadzilla to level 0 and test again this will rule out Quadzilla issues. Even mine will continue to lope with the Quadzilla turned off. (Level 0). Strictly injectors now at that point and the ECM. APPS sensor does NOT control idle. Only the ECM does. Once the IVS switch in the APPS is set for idle position then the ECM ignores the APPS completely and uses the onboard idle software of the ECM. The ECM is not programmed for large injectors so it commands a tiny amount and tends to overshot the mark and then cuts fuel. This now creates the lope. Mine will bounce 700 to 900 RPM coasting to a stop totally normal.

This is based on load based timing then how low your 1,500 RPM and 2,000 RPM timing max is. For example if you have 15° for 1,500 RPM then Load Based timing is set for 3° then it is 15° minus 3° making the timing 12° till the engine load is 100% then it will equal to the 1,500 timing max again. Cruise timing load limit will also dictate when this will occur. Like my previous tune is set for 20% 0% to 19% engine load timing will be 15° plus the setting for cruise timing. The trick is to monitor engine oil temperature and keep it -10°F compared to coolant your timing will be close. Above coolant temp is too advanced. Then -20°F vs coolant temp is too retarded. Pulling fuel is not going to spool faster. You need more fuel to spool quicker. Then the Low PSI timing reduct needs to be more to get the deep retard to push more expanding fuel and exhaust gases towards the turbine to spool up. Once spooled up and making boost this option drops out and the normal timing kicks in. Might suggest 5° and 50% or maybe 75% to get the depth of retard to spool quickly.

I've seen alternators wear a slot in the bracket and the alternator and bounce. Not often but it does happen.

Call ACS on warranty. Then you might get a clue on what to test for or look for.

On the Stock APPS it is based on voltage in must fall below the tag voltage at least 0.1 below. On Timbo's its based on bellcrank angle, no voltage used. Just replace it with Timbo's. The voltage should NOT be adjusted on a Stock APPS. Absolutely. Been running Timbo's on my exhaust brake for over 7 years now. No issues. Compare... Stock APPS and the IVS circuit. Then Timbo's APPS without any electronics.

Typically the stereo that failed. Last time I ran into this problem was the actual stereo. Even after we bypassed the amps it was still missing the one side.

I think the accuracy is going to be rather limited. Remember most of the sensors on our truck is rather basic. Then to make it all the more difficult, the 98.5 to 02 truck are NOT OBDII compliant. If you use a OBDLink in Bluetooth terminal and look at PID (1C) Hex it will return (05) Hex.

Time to replace that piece.

Yup. Most just hit the local Home Depot for the foam.

I've got a whole bag full of the locking springs for that purpose. Typically you can buy a o-ring kit for like $7 dollars and usually have a few locking springs in the kit. Double check the fittings too. Female side without the lock should have a good curled lip for the spring to grab.

Some people really don't care. I see plenty of totally beat Dodge / Ram Trucks.

Typically its the plastic stem between the stepper motor and the door. Never seen the control fail yet.

Yes sir. Blend door is a electric stepper motor. The vent controls are all vacuum.

Check the 40A fuse #12 in the PDC. Replace the blower relay.

If you stand near a BHAF vs Stock Air Box you'll find the stock air box is quiet then the BHAF has a extra thumping noise. This is normal. What you gotta watch out for is the metal on metal knocking noises. Beyond that you can do a compression test to verify the engine. Blow By test its possible to pass a blow by test with a bad cylinder (piston or valve). Compression test will pick up the damaged parts in a lower than normal reading.

I'll have to down grade to RV275 injectors...

Might be part of a forum post somewhere. There was a conversation about the alternator ground contact points. As for the battery cables...

Lol geez....

Found a good article... https://internationalhighlife.com/17-best-high-cbd-cannabis-strains/

Just a heads up. NAPA does NOT sell the main reservoir seal. That reservoir seal can be replaced without removing the pump. Not hard at all. I got the store manage to order a pump and stole the seal from pump. Then like I said I removed the 2 return hoses and the one pressure hose. Unscrewed the bolts and the regulator removed the reservoir and cleaned it out. Replaced the seal and slipped the reservoir back over the new seal and assembled again.

Keep your terminals oiled. I'm still running the factory cables and no issues as of 17 years later.

Fly on the wall. I'll be due for tires this fall.

I wouldn't say its a total waste. There is some benefits to it just partial. The other half is how much should you consume? With CBD there is no real high from its so you don't get feedback from your body like the actual THC. What happens it seems like you consuming high amounts of CBD and not really getting a feeling. Where THC reports back with that high feeling. Like I know I'm about 1 hour lag on edibles and about 15 minutes lag on smoke (even industrial hemp). To mee it seem like you consume way more attempting to get the same relief as normal cannabis. Another way of looking at it. Biodiesel is high cetane and lower in BTU's (CBD) and petroleum diesel is low cetane and high in BTU's. (THC Cannabis). I know this is not exact but somewhat fits.