Mopar1973Man

Finally had to change a oil cooler gasket on my truck. It has been seeping for the last 5 to 6 months leaving a small bit of coolant on the floor of the garage. I will let you all know that oil cooler gasket set is a Cummins only thing. I tried NAPA, Autozone and few others and no one stocks this gasket set. As for changing it out is pretty straight forward. You need to remove the air filter and the oil filter. On the oil filter housing remove the oil hose for the turbo. Then the bolts holding the oil cooler in place are all 10mm heads. After I got it pull out I compared the new and old gasket to realize that the rubber seal lip had failed. You can see its completely missing on the old gasket. This is where my coolant leak was from. Most likely just old age. Filter side of the oil cooler. Coolant side of the oil cooler. These photos are without clean up. Just removed and photos taken. 17 years of tap water and creek water the block has 385k miles and no signs of scale build up at all. As for clean up. Sharpen my puddy knife and scraped off the old rubber seal. Be very careful that no debris get into the oil holes below. I used a bit of brake clean and cleaned up the outer housing. Oil cooler I buffed the sealing edge with a scotch brite pad in a drill. Very lightly to just smooth the seal surface again. I did an extra step and chased the threads on the bolts to clean them up going back in. They were kind of corroded from dried coolant and oil. I used a 8mm x 1.25 die. The sandwich gasket between the filter and the cooler came off super easy and peeled off clean. I will mention that it much easier to stack up all the parts and pass two bolts through and get that started. DO NOT use any sealants here! Just bolt it up. I check the Dodge FSM for torque specs and found nothing about the oil cooler for installation. I was aiming for about 15 foot pounds on these bolts. Make sure to pull the thermostat so you can refill the block with coolant. After you start the engine and let it run a bit make sure to check the oil level too. I dumped the oil filter out and ended up adding oil to be in the normal range again.

@Auto Computer Specialist will test the ECm before even starting a repair and then notify you of what has failed as well.

Yup. This is true. Still at this time its just little commuter cars. Still in all all the heavy duty stuff is handled by diesel engines. When I see trains running strictly electric then I'll worry. Still even today trains are diesel over electric motors. I don't think diesel engines are going anywhere. I still think at some point electric cars will fail. Because the US electricity grid is not capable of handling that kind of load. I've got a friend that has a family member in Cally with a electric car and pays MORE to recharge his electric car because of the price of electricity down in Cally is just scary high in price. Then if you use too many kilowatts then the price jumps again and nearly doubles. This just makes it better to own fossil fuel vehicle over electric. But even in Cally it $4.xx a gallon for either fuel.

Pretty easy...

Time to tag @Dynamic he would know exactly what to do.

Yup. I figure that exactly what it was. My stupidity... Now I check the BHAF every time I install it by hanging it downward and shaking a few times. Even doing that with oil filters now too. Also will not pre-fill any oil filter any longer. Too much risk of any debris being accidentally poured in the filter.

Typically not. Its the prime on the injection pump or the lift pump is allowing air into the system. Typically its a suction leak on the lift pump side which normally never leaks anything on the ground but continues to draw air in all the time running or not.

Electric cars out here will not make it. Too far from charging stations and you'll need a diesel generator to just recharge if your stuck some where without power. We still have people out here living without city power. Just the logging industry needs diesel powered equipment and diesel trucks to bring logs to the mill. Farmers still will need diesel powered tractors and diesel trucks to haul cattle or food to the market.

Just for information value. From the Dodge FSM. 310 Bar is equal to 4,500 PSI +/- 250 PSI is equal to 293 (4250 PSI) bar to 327 bar (4,750 PSI). I know this is what the Dodge FSM states. What Bosch ESI Tronic states a different number and span.

I found another secret I've got to share with the group. For guys with manuals or not using the transmission temp sender. Remove the test plug on the oil filter housing and then install the transmission temperature sender. The secret found. If you want to find out if your over advancing timing its is super simple. Measure the engine oil temperature. When I started I was roughly +10°F over the coolant temperature. I was starting to test MPG in different RPM ranges. Found the lower bands tend to run hot oil wise and tend to be a bit low in MPG number still. After figuring out a new timing map now I'm roughly 20°F below coolant temperature on the flat highway run. If coolant is 197°F it can run 178°F to 181°F in oil temperature now. Since advancing the timing tends to burn more in the cylinder the block coolant was rising quite a bit and trapping more heat in the engine oil. Dropped 2° of timing in the 1,500 RPM range and this flipped the other direction to -20°F cooler. Worth it to install the sensor in the engine oil port. Remember... When you seeing heat that is a percentage of work energy turned into heat. The more you can trim off the heat in every device right down to the rear axle this means more power being put to the ground efficiently.

Now seeing the photos it looks like headliner material that they used. Foam backed fabric. I was thinking of recovering that piece with something else like vinyl.

Might want to post in the forum for better exposure.

Wrong switch. It should be the rotary switch 3 position (or 3 position with pull out knob). The pull out switch stopped in 1998 and 1999 went to rotary switch.

Simple version. Unhook the grid heater power wire from the driver side battery. Controlled version grab a Ford Starter solenoid. Now wire the factory grid heater lead through the solenoid to the +12V. Now the smaller terminals wire in a switch to keyed 12V power. This will control if the solenoid is on or off. That's it.

Just for information... Quadzilla Adrenaline (180 HP) HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) 7 x 0.010 Injectors (150 HP) @ 320 bar. I daily drive this truck a 1,000 miles a week and run just nearly smoke free.

Here is the wiring diagram. Then here is the CCD network article.

293 bar is the lower limit for injectors. Below this the spray is not as good and larger drops and less fine mist.

Normal setup no air baffles. Most likely not charged correctly. Check after full warm up if the compressor is cycling. If so it needs to be charged.

Send a PM to @pepsi71ocean.

@Me78569 is 100% correct. Your at you limits with Smarty S-03.

Food for thought Blue Top does some of the work for Redhead IIRC.

Won't hapoen at least for me.

Member here on M73M which happens to be @dorkweed he ran his CR engine 80k plus miles on a single oil change on WalMart SuperTech 15w-40 and Fleetguard filters and a MotorGuard bypass filter. Was testing every 7k with blackstone and no issues till somewhere around 80k miles silicone was up from doing valve lash. He did the same thing change filters and topped off.

I wonder how I got to 385k miles without 2 LO all these years? Only on my second clutch. Hmmm...

Mine looked pretty darn good. When the head was off the cylinder wall were in excellent condition except for on cylinder that had a debris rub the cylinder wall enough that you can see color difference but not feel it. You can see it in number 4 cylinder. 385k miles on the clock and rolling 1,000 miles a week.