Mopar1973Man

Not possible. The solenoid low current side is only ground to the PDC. The high current side is only between the grid heater and the battery. The solenoid low current side has no contacts and low current draw. Now like the fuel pump where the pump motor is affected by the bad contact in the relay. But the ECM will not take any damage being its a very low current draw on the ECM side. Same set up...

This is partial because the Quadzilla changes the amount of throttle given to hold road speed. Just changing your fuel map will change how the transmission see throttle. If your tune is heavy fuel then cruise state you're going to be lighter on the throttle so the TV cable is pulled less. Now if you have a very light fuel curve you're going to be deeper into the throttle and pulling the TV cable harder.

Yes it's a multi-function stick/switch.

You need to contact @Dynamic which is our site transmission guru. He'll have the low down on how to make it shift into gear without stalling.

I'm pretty sure is post filter... Being the flow map is... Inlet -> Water separator -> Pump -> Fuel Filter -> Outlet -> Return to tank

This is because all the canned tuners like Edge Juice, Edge Comp and even Smarty S-03 doesn't give enough control of the fuel timing maps to clean them up properly. Now Quadzilla Adrenaline and Smarty Touch have the abilities for larger injectors and allows for timing and fuel adjustment to fit just about any injector from +50 to +200 HP without much thought.

https://www.amazon.com/Holset-HE341-Blade-Compressor-Wheel/dp/B01BUK4AR2

Weeping that doesn't stop with crossover tube o-rings is typically the mating face of the injection line is either rotten or been over torqued and crushed. Injector line replacement is required. I ended up with this issue and the leak stopped as soon as the new lines went on.

Don't bother coming here I'm never home very long. When I'm at home the last thing on my mind is cooking...

This is fine. Just install the snubber at the AirDog and the run 5 foot of air brake tubing up from there and remote mount the sensor up under the hood. The length of tubing allows for the remaining pulses to fade out in travel.

Actually, its 7 to 12 PSI is an optimal cranking pressure range. Above the 12 PSI, it could produce hard starting because the timing is over advanced during cranking. About a one pulse per second or so. Switching off and on the power to the lift pump. As the FSM calls it a 50% duty cycle. Once the ECM detects idle RPM then the ECM switches to 100% duty cycle for powering the lift pump. Be honest I should replace my relay being its already had two locked up pumps with enough load to pop 20 Amp fuses. I'm sure my contact could be getting weak and this is not a bad idea. It would ensure the power to the pump motor without issues. The normal operation I don't think there is a lot of arcing for relay being if everything is working correctly the pump shouldn't be drawing 20 amp but much less. With over 10 years of service on my relay, it might be a good idea to replace it.

You might want to start another thread and the post up copy of the data log and the tune so we can work with the info some.

ECM is struggling to defuel enough to get the idle speed down to 800 RPM. It should dance back and forth above and below 800 RPMs with engine load never touching that low. @Collinst15 and @Unreal Summit both sounds like your injectors are worn out.

Quadzilla Adrenaline is the tuner you should look into. As for injectors I've already done the 7 x 0.0085 (+75HP) which where good I'm currently running 7 x 0.010 (+150 HP) which has even better power. The Quadzilla is very capable of cleaning up. Here is a package deal DAP sells. https://www.dieselautopower.com/dap-vp-truck-performance-bundle

You'll need the live data tool like an OBDLink LX or similar. Then you can watch the data with your mobile device. Like Quadzilla tuner has engine load as a value.

@Me78569 can answer that... I know the timestamps are rowed out like that because some data is slower to change than other data.

I Google earthed your backyard @dripley I think I found your chicken-sized goat.

I've got faith in you @dripley . You've got a 100k jump on me and keeping it together. As long as there is no extra parts I'm not going to worry.

Send it back for repair... Makes me wanna cry. Just as good as me feeding a turbo a hose clamp.

Not really ACS will test before starting the repair. Get feedback from the ACS crew.

Really? You get to hand deliver it then right?

What?!?! Someone's sloppy seconds?!?!

ECM CANBus can't report higher than 204*F and then flips to -40*F which is normal. ECM CANBus is limited to 00 to FF in Hex. Which in decimal displayed is -40*F to +204*F span if you add zero there you have 255. You need an app called Simply Auto for your phone so as you track the fuel mileage it reminds you to service different things.

I've already told MoparMom this winter I plan on assembling those things and getting them on the deck for use. Why have something brand new in the box and not use it?

As for the ABS light that is typically the front speed sensors. Replace both as a set. Being your speedometer is working in the photo I'm going to suggest the front sensors. I just happen to have 2 sets of sensors on hand (used very low miles). If that doesn't fix it the tone ring is damaged in the unit bearings and will need to have both bearings replaced. As for the MPG's you need to report the engine load numbers at 55, 65, and 75 MPH. I want to see how much fuel your commanding. As for my own setup just checked my MPG's for this last tank and got 20.84 MPG. Finally pushed the cost per mile down in the 13's cents per mile. Over 4 cents cheaper a mile than my 1996 Dodge 1500 V8 5.9L.