Mopar1973Man

Injectors are shot. Set idle speed is 800 RPM. This means the ECM cantcut fuel any deeper and the pop pressure is really low.

Exactly... Makes it unfavorable. Most will abandon the vehicle too much chance of getting caught.

@Me78569 might be able help more with the 4k box.

CANBus fueling is what to can produce on just the ECM alone. Typically most all tuners come up to about +60 HP CANBus only fuel. The VP44 and ECM have rules. The VP44 can understand a value 0 to 4,095 for fuel map. This is the limit of fuel for the CANBus. Wietap is typically used to now exceed the limit of the ECM / VP44. You now are tapping the fuel solenoid wire and commanding the fuel pulse to hold an extra 1,200 to 2,200 us (microseconds) more than what CANBus can do alone. Quadzilla allows max timing of 32° BTDC timing. As for each case, max timing can be less. Timing is based on the injectors, injector pop pressure and the amount of fuel being injected into the cylinder. More fuel and larger atomization droplets then more timing is needed. The Smaller the mist the less timing. IAT also plays here warmer it gets less timing is needed. In a nutshell, you trying to find the optimal amount of time to heat the fuel, to make it go BANG so it making the most power. This can be seen two places either in MPG logs (accuracy) or Engine Log (gross errors). Like the last time I checked on my truck the max timing without bucking was about 27° BTDC. But that was back with the 7 x 0.0085 injectors. I've not checked with 7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar.

High cetane fuel could produce more knock than usual. Each brand name carries its own additive package before being delivered to the fuel station. I typically stick to larger brand names Chevron, Shell, Maverik, etc.

@KATOOM is the one. Now that I've tagged him he'll show up. That was fast... LOL

Dang can't find it. I can build it again vector art doesn't bother me at all.

There should be +12V regardless of the door. The door and dimmer switch with control the ground function.

Bingo... That the kind of heat spread I got on mine WITHOUT the coolers. The bottom is much cooler than the top. The fluid on the very top is the hottest. Even my cheap HF IR temp gun shows the same thing. But mine is still running below 100*F yet. This is one reason I'm not fond of the coolers must stick the temp probe at the bottom and reports these super cool reading but the top is much hotter. I can see maybe 130*F on my worse day so for through the winter but check the bottom of the gearbox is typically much cooler.

Maybe I should give you the vector art for the Mopar1973Man.com site.

@Mockbee23 How about giving the guide a quick look over.

Basically in a nutshell. After 50k miles when I got my VP44 replaced. The Dodge Dealer was not willing to work with me very well. At about 60k miles I sign off my warranty and began to modify my truck and improve everything from there. I've done all my own work since brand new. To this day I continue to learn and study and modify more and more. Will it ever stop. Most likely not.

Burnt out bulb?

Read your error codes... Use a OBDII reader of some sort.

Funny, how very few people even know me. Out here thieves are too broke. The break the glass and break the lock. I'm banking on that the Quadzilla make it unattractive and they leave the truck behind. Weak stock truck.

All on the same fuse and wire. It's a pink wire.

IOD (Ignition Off Draw) fuse is in the cab. Driver side fuse. The IOD is listed on the fuse cover.

I got a phone call bright and early this morning from the Chevron down in Riggins, ID (Steve Crump). He explained that the ambulance crew last night had a double back to back to run. When the crew got back to Riggins, ID they always load with fuel and restock. At 1am things can get a bit foggy and confused. The driver loaded the nearly empty ambulance with gasoline. It's a 6.0L Ford Power Stroke Diesel. They left the ambulance at the fuel pump for the night. Told Steve that I'd be down in about an hour. I got myself together and hauled for Riggins, ID. The ambulance was still at the fuel pump. I pulled up and unrolled my new tow strap. Hitched up and towed the ambulance from the fuel pump to the side of the building. I proceeded to siphon out the fuel from the filler neck to 5-gallon buckets and using Chevron station for disposing of the waste fuel. The Chevron station uses the fuel for there waste oil heater. Just an added bonus for them. Once we were done draining we then pushed the ambulance backward a few feet and turned it back towards the fuel pumps to fill it with fresh diesel fuel. Like I told Fred the driver that always grab the GREEN handle. I save the Riggins, Idaho Ambulance.

IOD fuse. That's it..

I like the idea of being headless in town that way the truck is seen as a stock truck. None the wiser. Using my cellphone I don't normally watch the iQuad unless I'm working at correcting a tune issue or using it for diagnostics. Typically I just continue to use my a-pillar gauges and go headless. I prefer it doesn't. This way I can set the tune for level 1 and lock the truck down and there is no way for a thief to figure out how to defeat it. This comes back to a problem with the screen once you have a hardwired display that security feature is dead. ANYONE will be able to tune up the level and defeat the Level 1 lock out.

I wish I could make those. Be a handy tool for the 2nd Gen guys.

Kind of cool looking... "Mini-Me" turbo on the dash.

One thing I'm glad I don't have on my truck. Yeah it's cool that you have a security feature from the factory but where do you buy the parts for 17 year old truck now? Is there anyone at a dealer that still knows how to operate a DRBIII tool for 17 year old trucks?

Not really, they more prone to warping and cracking. The solid OEM rotors are way better than any of the slotted and drilled rotors. More metal and thicker structure to hold up to heating and cooling cycles better. Oh, the other trick is to use economy brake pads with the lowest amount of metallics. This will prevent it from eating the rotors. Stay away from ceramic brake pads they will eat the rotors before the brake pads. An exhaust brake is highly suggested for people that tow.

Old ISX back in the day bought one similar to that for his 12V.