Mopar1973Man

What do you have for timing set up? Or upload the tune for me.

I found that cruise of 21* or so at 2k on the tach was a good spot. Once I got the injectors replaced the timing had to be retarded. Now that mine are settling it can be advanced again.

The sides of the dash near the kick panels is a self-tapping like 8mm if I remember right. Then there is 2 nuts 6mm in the center.

Like one I do quite a bit. I've got one earbud in and listening to music. Hop out of the truck and walk around to the back side of the house to open the man door. At this point, my earbud reports back "Disconnected". Then continue to walk over open the garage door and hop back in the truck in a mere 1 second the earbud hooked back up and play music again. iQuad... Rather sad. Walk away with my cellphone upstairs and just a few feet away. All data stops, disconnects. Walk back upstairs in range of the truck again. Struggles to connect. Stop, restart the app multiple times. But my dumb $39 Bluetooth stereo can be heard playing my MP3 off my phone. The cheap China Made Bluetooth stereo never lost connection.

I got to say it should be revisited. With all my bluetooth devices. My bluetooth earbuds, bluetooth stereo, Bluetooth OBDII etc. iQuad app is the only app that sits there and struggles for connection. I can be up stairs and find out I left my earbuds turned on because there is no sound. Walk near my truck with my phone and the ignition turned on it automagically switches to the stereo for a phone call. iQuad. No connection. No connection. restart, No connection. Restart no connection. It's the app for sure.

So in my case, I measure the NV4500 on the driver side (away from the exhaust pipe) and measure on the case which mine is a reddish color and measure from bottom to top. Still in all without coolers at all and the gear ratio (final) that I'm running it super rare for me to break over 100*F yet. Like yesterday I touched 105*F but had to be sitting in traffic to get that warm. If I measure I pull over, leave the engine run and measure on the driver side. Starting at the bottom work to the top. Still in all the top is the warmest place on the case right near the top of the fluid. The absolute hottest place to measure is right near the gear teeth. This requires the engine off and probe thermometer and place the probe near the gear teeth.

Funny... Harbor Freight IR temp guns come with this adjustment as well. Black colors seem to be hotter typically.

Mine didn't have the baked coolant caught it super early during an inspection. Mine showed up dripping within a mere 30 minutes after pumping it up cold.

Trick is to pump the coolant system up with a test and leave it sit cold with pressure. This way the coolant trail will show up. If it just weeping the coolant will dry as it runs down the hot block. Bolt it on no issue...

Right on! Finally got it fixed! Get your ducks in a row...

If you planning on going up in HP or bigger injectors just do the head studs and be done.

You are paying attention. So how much did it cost you?

The magic number, around 300k miles the head start to curl front and rear and needs to be resurfaced. While you got it out might as well have the valves and guides done too.

Mine was in the exact spot. My gasket failed at the passenger rear corner. Gotta ask how many miles?

No. My wiretap dumps out so much power that the tires break loose. I've got to keep turning down the level to keep the tires under it. I've ran a wiretap on my last VP44 with the entire life and it had many years of the Edge Comp on 5x5 and then the Quadzilla and it life ended at 243k miles. Timing piston failure (P0216). Matter of fact I was heading over the bridge in Ontario laid a bit too deep in the throttle and BAM! Not really. You just hold the fuel solenoid a mere extra 1,200 microseconds up to 2,200 microseconds. This translates to 1.2 milliseconds and 2.2 milliseconds. Yeah, the pump is pushing just a bit more but rotor failures are extremely rare. Correct. You want to start out on levels 2 and level 3 and figure out your CANBus fuel map and then you can stack on the extra ponies of the wiretap. You should have a clean smoke free tune on CANBus only. Then you can stack on the wiretap and tune it for what you like. Mine hazes slightly yet but I like the power for passing on the highway. Like this morning 2 cars and a semi-truck. The rearmost car squeezed me out I laid on the throttle and passed the nose of the semi at nearly 90 MPH no problem. Whipped back in my lane and unwound the Mighty Cummins. Most injector builders seem to favor 305 bar. Bottom limit is 293 bar. Doesn't give much room for longevity. This is why I've opted for 320 bar which words super this winter no starting issues. I know the pop pressure is failing on my injectors already. Even got to recalibrate the MPG display and add more to the percentage offset.

iPhones to me, are like Microsoft Windows.

Paid only $280 for my LG G5 unlock phone. Then MoparMom's LG G4 unlock phone was $180. I'll never pay big price tags on a phone...

7 x 0.010 injectors You could load it and back down the timing 1 degree for all bands. It would work for smaller injector.

Take a look at my latest tune. It being designed for MPG mostly.

You can't share one sensor for two gauges. You must have 1 sensor per 1 gauge.

Injectors are shot. Set idle speed is 800 RPM. This means the ECM cantcut fuel any deeper and the pop pressure is really low.

Exactly... Makes it unfavorable. Most will abandon the vehicle too much chance of getting caught.

@Me78569 might be able help more with the 4k box.

CANBus fueling is what to can produce on just the ECM alone. Typically most all tuners come up to about +60 HP CANBus only fuel. The VP44 and ECM have rules. The VP44 can understand a value 0 to 4,095 for fuel map. This is the limit of fuel for the CANBus. Wietap is typically used to now exceed the limit of the ECM / VP44. You now are tapping the fuel solenoid wire and commanding the fuel pulse to hold an extra 1,200 to 2,200 us (microseconds) more than what CANBus can do alone. Quadzilla allows max timing of 32° BTDC timing. As for each case, max timing can be less. Timing is based on the injectors, injector pop pressure and the amount of fuel being injected into the cylinder. More fuel and larger atomization droplets then more timing is needed. The Smaller the mist the less timing. IAT also plays here warmer it gets less timing is needed. In a nutshell, you trying to find the optimal amount of time to heat the fuel, to make it go BANG so it making the most power. This can be seen two places either in MPG logs (accuracy) or Engine Log (gross errors). Like the last time I checked on my truck the max timing without bucking was about 27° BTDC. But that was back with the 7 x 0.0085 injectors. I've not checked with 7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar.

High cetane fuel could produce more knock than usual. Each brand name carries its own additive package before being delivered to the fuel station. I typically stick to larger brand names Chevron, Shell, Maverik, etc.