Mopar1973Man

Need error codes. It's possibly a bad ECM too. The limit to 1,300 RPM is called "Limited Pedal". The white smoke and studdering is a sign of the P0216 code so it could go either way possible. Get the error codes.

Since top gear is basically the same for all transmissions. 66 MPH - 3.55 gears - 2,000 RPM - 245/75 R16 80 MPH - 3.55 gears - 2,400 RPM - 245/75 R16

I went step farther and made a paper clip jumper. Plugged it in the sensor plug and ohmed the circuit from the ABS module. Should be less than 1 ohm.

Not allowed to drive to the appointment. I can't eat or drink 8 hours before. To me that spells OR time to me. Ugh.

Sad but true I'm scheduled to go back in on Friday. They want to make sure of my right kidney is draining properly. It sucks but more OR time from what I understand.

Make sure to calculate the voltage drop and refigure proper cable size. Being the batteries are farther away from the starter and the PDC this means large cables got to used.

Sorry to take the wind out of your sails. I'm just quick to use the tools at hand. Google is powerful tool.

Last picture is one thought of the spring bend. Mine is bent in an L shape to the center. The tip is bent downward slightly to cradle the check ball but prevents the check ball from wedging down in the coils. Just did a Google Search. https://www.google.com/search?q=mopar1973man+airdog+shim&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjOj4v56dzfAhVJ0oMKHSNHANoQ_AUIDygC&biw=1668&bih=885

I stand corrected.

A problem... if you lean over dielectric grease you get on you and your clothing. Engine oil leaves only a very thin oily film that will not get on your hands or clothing. Just like any battery terminal sprays the same problem too. Another thought to add to this is that with grease it will collect dust and dirt quite a bit. This could turn into a conductor for power if damped with water or humidity. The dirt and dust could be a problem. This one thing nice about oil it doesn't collect the dirt as bad. You can oil the terminal week later rinse it all off with a garden hose and the oil film will continue to protect the terminals.

Not good. Does nothing for oxidation of the lead nor preventing corrosion. Q: What are the only two materials that sulphuric acid will not EAT? A: Glass and Plastic. Q: What is plastic made from? A: Oil. Just coat the terminals with engine oil they will NEVER corrode.

The return line fitting on the pump. Remove the fitting and behind it should be a spring and check ball. Now there are a few things to do. The spring needs to be bent in a manner that the tail of the spring is bent in an L shape and just bent down into the coil just enough the check ball can't push into the coil and the ball wants to stay centered in the spring. Now that is done, measure the ID opening size of the fitting and the ID of the pump body. Now purchase a few washers that are close to both measurements. The fitting hole you do not want to obstruct that return flow. The washer has to have an overall OD size that is not going to bind up inside the pump body either. Another members idea.

Back in the day there was a guy that said that BOV would help in keeping the turbo spooled up better on manual transmissions. Basically when you clutched in and shifted the BOV would open dumping the pressure and allowing the turbine to spin freely and then when your released the clutch and got back in the power it would not lose all the spin of the turbo. If this is true or not I'm not sure but I do remember this tidbit. Normally when you drop the throttle the fuel is gone the turbine has lost its drive pressure. Then the compressor wheel ends up barking because the boost pressure is attempting to spin the shaft backward escaping out the mouth of the compressor side. The true method was set the BOV for your maximum boost and let it blow off the boost instead of blowing up the engine. Most of us don't worry about the Cummins it can handle easy 30 to 40 PSI of boost without any mods. The head gasket is the weak point and that where studs will pull you farther in the power.

Good explanation of the issue. When the air leak occurs its the pressure side that let's go and returns to the tank. The return rail typically drains out anyways but there is no way for air to enter a sealed system. Following Nick's quote, the return line leaking air in the fuel will drain out the injector lines and the VP44. Now like my truck I'm lucky I've got a mild fuel weep on the 4 to 6 area that keeps the manifold damp but for some reason, it's not allowing air to get back in the system and cause hard starts as of yet.

I've dealt with Auto Computer Specialist in Florida for my PCM failure. Excellent people. @Auto Computer Specialist As for the AC noise you need to have the alternator bench tested for safety. If you have a quality DVM you could do it yourself following my write up. I still suggest removing the alternator and bench testing is the safest option. Then you'll need to do the W-T ground wire mod then do the PCM protection mod.

Return tee seals, yes, is Cummins part. Crossover o-rings can be picked up many places like DAP has them.

Like my stock HX35W turbo was very proned to turbo bark. Now with the HX35/40 hybrid its never happened yet. HX35W - 54/60/12 HX35/40 Hybrid - 60/60/12

Yes its possible. If there is fuel weeping out. Is there fuel leaking at the banjo at the back of the head. Last spot is the return tee at the back of engine.

7 to 12 PSI while cranking is normal. Higher pressures create hard starting from over advancement. Also make sure to watch for pressure drop out which is passing air bubbles.

Keep a coating of engine oil on the terminals and any exposed copper it will never oxidize or corrode. Like picture of the positive terminal the lead was highly oxidized and turning hard and bkack which is ruined. Lead terminal should remain bright and shiny appearance.

Some times fuse get old and crack. There isn't any electrical issues but the risible link oxidizes then breaks from age and vibration.

Be a bit exact. It the return fuel rail in the head. The crossover tube o-rings seal the return fuel in the head. Not lot of pressure.

Yeah... I've seen fuses cool and make contact. The put them in service and the normal load will make it open. Typically you would run it till fails them test. The it will show as a failed fuse.

Ohm test you rear speed sensor wiring. Check for the open wiring.

Funny... Actually, the female nurses were pretty cute. I was actually hitting on them a bit but found out most were married.