Mopar1973Man

Remember you have to change the front axle too. Other than that the 4WD with blow that transfer case up.

I wish. I would be pop testing my own injectors. Head gasket and this PCM project have wiped me out. The best place I know of is in Lewiston, Idaho they do pop testing for free. Then if you next to actual pop to set then its $9 an injector.

Since the Quadzilla shows the fuel temperature inside the VP44. I've never been over 140*F even after heat soak. The whole heat thing for the VP44 is nothing but scare tactics. Heat failures are extremely rare at best. You would have to have a lift pump producing less than 10 PSI all the time. Have an engine that is overheating. To get a VP44 to fail from heat. As long as the fuel is moving out the overflow the heat is traveling to the fuel tank. The problem is after long hauls like Dripley and myself can do the fuel tank becomes heat soaked as well. Your heat exchanger will only cool to the temperature outside anyways. If its 110*F outside that will be the best the fuel temperature will drop too. Kind of like the intercooler and radiator. They can only cool as low as the outside temperature.

Let's say there is has only been one P0168 code ever that I know here on this site. Fuel temperature isn't the problem. 1. Fuel lubricity 2. Excessive AC noise 3. Filtration 4. Fuel Pressure

Stock and RV275 are not popped or matched. All other injectors are popped and flow matched. You can even specify pop pressure if you understand what you doing.

Actually, the fuel leaving the back of the head with 190*F thermostat will heat the fuel to near coolant temperatures. Like most will tell you and me. Keep your fuel tank above 1/2 tank and temperatures stay down. Like this last summer with temps as high as 100 to 110*F for the summer, I never got past the 127 to 132*F in fuel temperature. Even after sitting in a parking lot, asleep in the cab for 2.5 hours with the A/C going woke up to fuel temperature still hanging at 125*F. As long as the fuel tank is kept 1/2 tank or better the temperature isn't a problem.

If popped at 300 bar sure will. 310 bar or slightly high will clean them right up. After talking to @pepsi71ocean about his being just re-popped to 325 bar it cleaned them right up. What I'm finding out is all injectors settle shortly after being built. Yeah, you can have RV275 injectors that are not flow matched or pop matched. Basically, 6 random injectors shipped to you. Then have them in about 10k to 20k miles drop about 10 bar as everything wears in. Be a different story if the RV275's were flow matched within % volume and pop matched within % of bar for the set of 6 sent to you. That is what I'm fighting now is my current (7 x 0.0085) were popped to 305 bar now are below the 293 bar bottom limit. I'm sure they're more in the 260 to 270 bar range now with the amount of white smoke and lower MPG numbers. Only got about 75k miles on them. The stock injector is like a 7 x 0.0061 vs 7 x 0.0065 RV275 (IIRC). The +90 HP is 7 x 0.0085

Closing in on 400k miles... I don't think it's a serious issue.

Maybe down in New Mexico. Sure don't want to have cooler up here I've already seen -20*F this winter. The other part is if you running Quadzilla you want about 80 to 140*F fuel temperature which is fine. Above the 140*F is getting too warm. Typically the fuel temperature and the IAT run side by side for temperature.

SET OF 6 BRAND NEW GENUINE BOSCH OE INJECTORS RV275 - $379.00 Or Cheaper yet. DAP 90HP PERFORMANCE INJECTORS 7X0.0085 VCO - $349.00 Doesn't make any sense to buy RV275 injectors which are higher priced. RV275's are not pop tested or flow matched.

Heck of lot easier to set up that heavy piece of cast iron.

They sell the collars for pop testing.

Won't work for guys in California or smog control states. @IBMobile will have a grid heater control without error codes very soon.

Do the pull cable if you are going to keep the CAD...

CAD axles I really don't like them at all. On1996 Dodge Ram 1500 with the CAD axle all I've got to do is have it locked in 4WD and start pulling a bit more throttle on a grade and the axle will UNLOCK. Sucks. When you need the axle to hold locked the vacuum in the manifold drops and the CAD unlocks and now your 2WD. Then when you let up off the throttle again the CAD locks again. Now on the 2002 Cummins solid axles never have that problem. Had this on an 80's Chevy S10 pickup too. That sucked. Every time you pulling a grade the axle would unlock and go back to 2WD because vacuum would drop away. Vacuum controlled axles are a bad idea period.

Don't turn tight! It puts a huge amount of stress on the 4WD and breaks stuff. 4WD is meant to be used while traveling straight mostly or slick conditions where the tires can slip. When locked in 4WD and on hard pack is really rough on the transfer case.

Check that fuse again with ohm meter. If the fuse is cracked the load will make it open up. Then flicker begins. I've seen the same thing with the starter solenoid fuse. Better yet just swap the fuse just to for the test.

LS differential is not needed. Both of my truck is standard open differential and run awesome in the snow and ice.

I would suggest looking towards Smarty Touch for CR tuning.

I think that most people abuse and overuse silicone sealants. Our engines were put together without sealant for most of it. The only thing that is sealed with silicone is the gear case.

I would have them tested and then talk to @dieselautopower about having them popped. It could be a poor spray pattern. I know its Russian but it shows a clear bad injectors... Now notice the good fine mist on this one...

Lag won't change much. Lag is typically a timing issue a lack of retard. When you change throttle from light to heavy quickly you need a good amount of retard to make the flame and expanding fuel on the exhaust stroke to spool the turbo. Once the turbo lights or boost is starting to rise then you need to flip back to advanced timing to keep the fuel burning. If only had some timing control. Smaller injectors aren't really going to fix this problem. Even your wore out stockers will have the same problem because the pop pressure is too low. The problem is the droplets or mist is too big and taking too much time to convert the fuel to vapor and go bang. This is pop pressure problem. I've got this problem right now my pop pressure is too low and the lag time and fuel atomization is poor.

Same here the old acid core I got hasn't been any problem so far in what I've used it for. You have to remember that the lead/tin mixture seals the copper. So the acid part is only there for a short time and the lead/tin seals the copper. I only use it for the big cable stuff. I've got small diameter flux core solder but it for smaller soldering jobs.

Did you have the injectors pop tested yet?

Check fuse G in the PDC. Then try trading the Fog Lamp relay. The fog lamp and headlight share the same ground in the cab.