Mopar1973Man

Seriously this why I don't buy into the hype of synthetic oils and name brands. As long as the oil meets or exceeds the requirements of the engine use it. Our engines require CI-4 or better and typically 15w-40 viscosity is fine for most normal operation. Synthetic oil is not required. The only thing about filter filling I would heed the warning about filling the oil filters. Long ago there were reports of the oil cooling nozzles being plugged up with debris. Some of this came from the Fram oil filter problems and other came from debris falling into the center hole of the oil filter. (foil cover). Either way, anything placed in the center hole is unfiltered oil head for the bearing and cooling nozzles. Myself, I typically do not fill the filters anymore. Startup to oil pressure is typically 2 seconds tops. After having the head off and seeing the cylinder walls I was happy with the oils I'm using and plan on continuing down that path. Like currently running Delo 15w-40 CK-4 oil. I'm currently using NAPA filters being the frequency of my oil change is very short in time but still 7k thereabouts.

Let say in all the miles I've driven I've never had a explosive tire failure. I've had flat tires but that is even rare. Key is proper inflation pressure. Never inflate to max inflation and never buy marginal tires that require max inflation to carry the load.

1989 to 2001 is KDP years. There has only been one that I know of reported in 2002. The owner had a picture of the invoice up and it showed 2002 Dodge. Rather wild but rare.

If the oil is so dirty I wonder if that's why the cylinder wall look good because that oil is filtered first. Where the oil I poured in the valve cover ate the valve guide?

Darn cell phone. I just read the last post. Now looking back on the PC yeah I screwed up.

I watched a shop install 2 inch leveling kit in an Ford Truck and watched the mechanic use a come-a-long to pull the axle over enough to put the bolt back in the track bar. It pulled the axle over nearly 2 inches. Then the caster was out so the vehicle wouldn't self center properly. Like one our Dodge's the caster adjustment can do only so much but when the axle angle changes so does the control arms so you can't gain the caster angle again. Like my conversation on this with alignment shop the caster adjustment can alter the thrust angle too. So... Get it aligned it the shop can't get angles correct be aware you might have to change the track bar and control arms to get geometry correct.

When you lift even 2 inches the axle is push downward which means the track bar is too short. The control arms may be too short and change caster too much and not be able to readjust caster properly. Too many people assume leveling kits are safe and don't require anything more which is false.

You'll be surprised how much 2 inch kit changes the geometry of the front axle. Its best to it right the first time.

One member suggested using a borescope for checking the KDP problem. I'm not sure if you could see the timing marks or not but it might be worth trying by scope down the gearcase and see if you can see the timing marks.

Any updates?

That is possible... That is also possible... The only way to tell is check the gear timing. Part that sucks is that you have to pull the gearcase open and replace the front crank seal. The other way is to take the gamble that you have a bad pump but will your supplier say you voided warranty? If you go this route make sure to take photos of your pump and any numbers and data on the label. This way if they call Void then you can verify with your photos if they are looking at the right pump.

Replace the lift pump. Not the overflow valve. A good FASS, AirDog or Fuel Boss would be the best solution.

Actually, the Quadzilla gets it data from the engine CANBus so that means the PCM has to start the CCD network to get the ABS speed signal then hand it off to the ECM so the ECM pass it off over the CANBus.

Sounds like its getting low under WOT operation. You should see 14-20 PSI at WOT. Once you drop under 14 PSI the overflow valve closes and the return fuel stops. Then your extra fuel for cooling and lubing stops as well. Might ask who is rebuilding there pumps. There is only a small handful of Bosch 815 test stands in the US. If you don't have a 815 test stand there is no way to program or test the VP44 pump or flash the new PSG.

OMG...

P0216 code... ECM has nothing to do with it. P0216 code is caused by... Is your pump gear still in time? Like this member had it off by a tooth. What's your fuel pressure like at highway speed?

That would work excellent on a cold engine when all the oil has ran to the pan. This is an updated gearcase... That is a first for me to see the pump gear off by a tooth. I know people mention that it not possible to lift the gear high enough to skip a tooth.

Here is the CCD Network bus. You can see the Central Timer, Radio, Instrument Cluster, Airbags, ABS and Overhead console. The PCM is the master controller of the CCD network. ECM is companion module.

Why buy a kit? Just buy a fender washer, a tube of grey silicone, and front crank seal. Take the fender washer and shape it on a grinder so it like a teardrop. Pull the bolt and install the custom tab. Install a new crank seal and re-seal your cover. Your done.

KDP problem is from 1989 to 2001 model year Cummins engines.

Any standard error codes on the OBDII port?

Electrical problem for sure. The cluster is still getting power but PCM isn't fired up so the bus is dead because the PCM is not powered.

I can tell you that lifting the head is a two-man job even with an engine hoist. As for the Head gasket job isn't really that hard. It's time-consuming. Basically, all the fuel rails have to come off on the driver side. The passenger side the exhaust manifold and turbo come off and remember to pull the injectors. Then the head you need to pull all the rockers and the push rods. There is two rubber plugs in the cowl for lifting the push rods out for 5 and 6 cylinders. Unbolt the head and team lift that beast off. Now just need the head to be taken to a shop and checked for cracks, then made true flat again. While its there I highly suggest valve guise and have the valve seals dealt with. This is about $1,000 just for the machine work. Head gasket kit is right around $150 if I'm not mistaken. Then its just reassembly at this point. Clean your deck really good and place your head gasket down. It will only go down one way because of the alignment dowels. Now carefully place the head on the block again and make sure it seats on the dowels. Start your assembly process... First time... Removal with a friend was 3 hours. 2 days on assembly. I had help to place the head but that all. Rest was on me.

I've seen one dealer invoice for 2002 truck with a gear case replacement because of a KDP. Typically the end of the line is 2001. Just that fluke that a few 2002 trucks ended up with an old school KDP case. I've checked mine and have the updated case already.