Mopar1973Man

Answering machine at home is off. My voicemail on my cellphone is full. Now my WiFi number is really cool since its setup with Google Voice it sends me an email in text form of the entire phone call plus the phone number. The part I hard is a person calls 10 minutes of blah blah blah... Then at the very end run through there phone number extremely fast. You hear maybe 2 number. Now you got to play that message over and over again. I've wasted an entire hour to crap like that. Why typically I don't worry about voicemail or answering machines if you really want me you call again. My WiFi number is the only one that is really good about making text back with a readable phone number.

If you are really hard set on the alloy wheels or any aftermarket wheels make sure to get the right offset and width for your truck. My OEM alloy wheel failed the same way 3 wheels had multiple cracks in them which any crack is unsafe. This why I never opted fo factory alloy wheel again all them have the same issue with cracking. Then when I went to aftermarket I got the wrong offset and ended up with road slingers that slung all the mud and road salt on the side windows which made it unsafe t odrive on the interstate in a mere 10-20 miles you had to get off the highway to clean the side windows to even see. So I went back to the factory steel/chrome 16x7 proper offset and fit my 235's at the time perfect. Near future will be 245's.

Welcome to the family.

Basically a water tight tap point without the mess. No crappy scotch locks or weak connections.

Bingo. Sludge is really hard on pumps and will cause it to break to thick in viscosity small shaft can't handle the load. I'm going to have the oldest power steering pump that is OE.

No. ECM does a 50% duty cycle pulsing the power on and off. Heat soak is not an issue a long as you never see P0168 the the VP44 is overheated. Sounds like batteries, cables and/or starter is worn out.

Maybe debris bound it up?

Too high of cranking pressure. 7 to 12 PSI is normal for starting.

I went back to factory steel 16x7 wheels. I've been through 2 sets of alloy wheels.

Default tune is rather limited. You need to build your own tune or dive into the download area and get a tune. Either way most of our tunes don't smoke. My daily tune is defueled pretty good on the starting edge for the fuel map.

Make sure to still test the alternator because excessive AC noise can still damage the ECM all over again.

I know that feeling... Now it's just another day in the flames.

@pepsi71ocean has a few things against him... Smarty S-03 Low stall torque converter +100HP injectors I agree, the Smarty S-03 programmer isn't designed for +100HP injectors. Then toss in the low stall converter and making the problem worse. The only thing I can figure is the injectors might be a little soggy and down in pop pressure and the re-pop might help some for clean up and MPG. He could go two directions either Quadzilla Adrenaline or Smarty Touch. Optional would be change the torque converter for slightly high stall or stock stall to allow for spooling of the turbo.

I know why the bearings rusted out. Salt water from the road got up into the bleed hole and the bearing rusted and failed.

Uh No. I'm a drone owner and my particular drone size and usage doesn't require registration. If you going down this path you better take on all the hobby remote control aircraft. Airplanes, helicopters, gliders, drones. Don't single out just one type of aircraft.

I've got to get one. Thanks for the idea... I might take you up on that offer. I'll admit I don't know everything.

After all that still in all after 13 years 250k miles the first pump head lasted that long. Keep a solid 15 to 17 PSI its entire life. Filters haven't bothered the flow or pressure much being they are very stable. Now some with wild swings I can see this being a problem. I can see this with someone with debris issue and change filter very short intervals. As for my system, I'm still running 60k miles filter changes and barely getting the filter dirt by then. Again pressure is very stable only a 2 PSI drop from Idle (17) to WOT (15) typically. Donaldson, Fleetguard and AirDog filters have been used and no difference in pressures.

Ummm... Pump head is the vertical lift if feet of the liquid column. We aren't pumping vertically much more than more than 12 to 18 inches. Horizontally pumping maybe 15 feet. Then lifting maybe 12 to 18 inches out of the fuel tank. I work with fire pumps that lift 200 to 400 feet on 2.5 fire hose. What the AirDog has to lift is mere few feet vertically.

When your driving 3 days a week (Tues, Thurs, and Sat) for 13 hours. Then working Wed and Fri to make a bit of money to pay bills. That leaves Sun to get truck stuff done if I'm not interrupted by fire pages. Then Mon I've got to do house chores to be ready for the week again. Being I've never done it I want plenty of time so I'm not hurried. Now like my VP44 change out time is down to about 1.25 hours. My first time took a bit more than 4-5 hours.

Yes and no. Yes, the flow to the injection pump is only going to flow what the overflow valve and the injected flow will be. The return flow will rise and fall so technically no the pump output is the same all the time it just balanced back and forth between VP44 supply or the return line back to the filler neck.

Kind of like I tried to get you to drive out for the eclipse event but you're too afraid back then to make the drive because of failures with 24V. Too many things where marginal. If I recall correctly issues with the airDog and few other things. I was really hoping to see that beast of a truck. Time to catch up I'm in the realm of 60-70k miles a year. I think I just about qualify to be a hotshot driver.

Strange... I've got to ask why did you buy the 4th Gen. Little too much downtime on the 24V?

True. I look at thing a bit different. I'm not WOT racing. Just daily driving with 2.0 to 2.5 GPH flow rates injected. Way different when you talking racing and high volume requirements when flow rates even on my truck can reach as high as 30 GPH injected. Way different story but since that style of driving for me is less than 1% of the time I really don't sweat that side of the coin. When 99% of the time I'm cruising with 15% to 20% engine load.

I forgot about that. The grease trick does work for testing for suction leaks. Typically it will create a seal for a temporary time and fix the problem then return.

You correct about flow rates. There are a few things you missed. The total flow rate between the return and the supply is still fairly close to the total it is reduced volumes minus the captured pressure and filter flow loss. The pump is not under deadhead load like Raptor and non-returning pumps. The Non-returning pumps tend to redirect the output flow to the inlet again which makes them cavitate and create air bubbles in the pump if the pressure is turned up too high.