Mopar1973Man

Ummm... Pump head is the vertical lift if feet of the liquid column. We aren't pumping vertically much more than more than 12 to 18 inches. Horizontally pumping maybe 15 feet. Then lifting maybe 12 to 18 inches out of the fuel tank. I work with fire pumps that lift 200 to 400 feet on 2.5 fire hose. What the AirDog has to lift is mere few feet vertically.

When your driving 3 days a week (Tues, Thurs, and Sat) for 13 hours. Then working Wed and Fri to make a bit of money to pay bills. That leaves Sun to get truck stuff done if I'm not interrupted by fire pages. Then Mon I've got to do house chores to be ready for the week again. Being I've never done it I want plenty of time so I'm not hurried. Now like my VP44 change out time is down to about 1.25 hours. My first time took a bit more than 4-5 hours.

Yes and no. Yes, the flow to the injection pump is only going to flow what the overflow valve and the injected flow will be. The return flow will rise and fall so technically no the pump output is the same all the time it just balanced back and forth between VP44 supply or the return line back to the filler neck.

Kind of like I tried to get you to drive out for the eclipse event but you're too afraid back then to make the drive because of failures with 24V. Too many things where marginal. If I recall correctly issues with the airDog and few other things. I was really hoping to see that beast of a truck. Time to catch up I'm in the realm of 60-70k miles a year. I think I just about qualify to be a hotshot driver.

Strange... I've got to ask why did you buy the 4th Gen. Little too much downtime on the 24V?

True. I look at thing a bit different. I'm not WOT racing. Just daily driving with 2.0 to 2.5 GPH flow rates injected. Way different when you talking racing and high volume requirements when flow rates even on my truck can reach as high as 30 GPH injected. Way different story but since that style of driving for me is less than 1% of the time I really don't sweat that side of the coin. When 99% of the time I'm cruising with 15% to 20% engine load.

I forgot about that. The grease trick does work for testing for suction leaks. Typically it will create a seal for a temporary time and fix the problem then return.

You correct about flow rates. There are a few things you missed. The total flow rate between the return and the supply is still fairly close to the total it is reduced volumes minus the captured pressure and filter flow loss. The pump is not under deadhead load like Raptor and non-returning pumps. The Non-returning pumps tend to redirect the output flow to the inlet again which makes them cavitate and create air bubbles in the pump if the pressure is turned up too high.

1 Bar is 14.5038 PSI.

Thank you for specifying that... I know the Bosch ESI[Tronic] I might have to fire it up and look it over.

Typically they all supply 1/2 draw straw with the kit. I happen to have a 1/2" AirDog replacement straw that is steel.

Don't you mean 293 to 327 bar? So 4,250 PSI equal to 293 bar and 4750 PSI is equal to 327 bar. At least from the Dodge FSM book.

Dave is right ask plenty of questions every if it sounds silly or stupid because that's have your going to learn about your truck.

Wiring issues. This is why I would ask for error codes. There might be P1694 or P1698 code which both are communication issues.

Yes, but typically the cost of about $120 for the flash and appointment with a dealer. My thing is if that SuperChips can't talk to the ECM I wonder if the dealer will too? Get my point.

Check all your OBDII pins. I've had a Smarty Touch behave the same way and found one of the SCI bus pin pushed out the back. You'll have to push the plug out of the metal tab on the dash and verify all the pins are locked in. https://smartyresource.com/forums/topic/1968-smarty-touch-communication-errors/

I love picking on you for that bolt in the intercooler... "Where does this go?" Clank!

Have them double check the balance on the tires.

I love seeing there are you guys out here willing to cut your teeth on the mechanic realm. Make sure you guys jump in the 911 Contact list you might be able to help out other members. Like my A/C work I typically charge $40 for A/C recharge (if the system is just low). Repairs can't go up depending on the extent of the repair. VP44 replacement on site I typically get $120. I've done them in the middle of a hay field in a rainstorm. Even bailed @IBMobile out when he broke down in Riggins, ID. The only thing DON'T let @JAG1 hang around while you do a VP44... Electrical jobs I typically edge up my price depending on the type of repair, modification or installation of an accessory. This is one of my strong points I'm not going to cheap out on that. Then with my Prevail Web Management, I'm doing server admin work or website building for a price. Depending on the task it can be simply $20 an hour or upwards of $60 an hour depending on how in-depth and working off hours. I even teach Linux OS. Back when I had "Cloud 10 Computers" I was getting $120 an hour for computer and network service. I closed this business down in 2008 when the economy tank locally. I switch to Mopar1973Man.Com.

Welcome to the website @Dirtworks ... I see you got your post going. The ones you might try... These are our Europian members maybe they would know. @wil440 @Ronniemx3 @AlpineRAM @Tiller

I agree. You have to start somewhere. For a basic part changer that not a bad place to start. I think the worse part is investing large amounts of time in the diagnostic realm. Better your tools, and experience the less time you invest. I win over heart locally with if I can't fix I don't charge. If I diagnose a vehicle and it's beyond my skill or experience then I typically will pass it up and not charge for the diagnostic work. The honesty wins. I end up with a return customer typically. If I doing a job I've got no experience in I'll outright tell the own straightforward I've never done this task and I expect to take more time than typical. Again the honesty brings them back. Acting like nothing phases you and you can handle anything make people uneasy. Try to allow yourself extra time for diagnostics, extra time to learn, extra time just in case you need special tools.

Ok. I jumped in and moved the thread over to the 24V to get him visibility. Now... I need to do the basics with I need you to check for error codes and what is your fuel pressure like (idle, cruise, and WOT on the highway).

I'm going to assume you have a Timbo's there is no voltage to set it about the angle. Lift pump is weak. Fuel system too restrictive. You should have only a 2 to 3 PSI drop not a 7 PSI drop that's too much. That's the limit of the Superchip vs the turbo without a boost elbow. The wastegate pop open and the boost stops. You've got issues with that SuperChips I would return to stock and then consider getting Quadzilla way better tuner. What's the code? Also no code will self erase for 40 warm-up cycles so in other word you have to start from below 140*F and rise above 160*F without tripping the code for 40 times. I promise the code is in the computer yet it's not gone.

Make sure its 1/2" fuel line...

I've got it as well. Mine keeps blow out and I've got to tuck it back into the bumper. Might cut mine off soon.