Mopar1973Man

I'm running a 4-inch Diamond Eye Exhaust with the muffler. When you get on the throttle she still talks. But cruising she is near quiet as a church mouse. I hear my turbo spooling more than the exhaust.

Another great example of the impact of larger tires and leverage forces it takes to overcome bigger wheels. Since work is going to show up as heat this one reason I don't have these issues with heat and fluid breakdown since I ditched the 265's long ago and dropped to 235's. Now here soon I'll be dropping the 235's (31.7") for 245's (30.5") reducing the leverage forces even more.

I keep seeing that 62/68/12 combo which I fell would be a much better match than my current 60/60/12. Since I'm always on a limited and tight budget it makes it tough to jump into a fresh turbo. So I guess I can dream about it. Basically in a nutshell. 62/68/12 62mm compressor wheel diameter. 68mm turbine wheel diameter. 12cm2 exhaust housing. There is much more than that being the exducer and the inducer sizes of the wheels. But in a quickie that what the 3 numbers mean.

Damn, my dream turbo...

I bought my setup from NAPA about 8 years ago. I'm going to need to replace my manifold gauges they are just physically beat up. Taken way too many drops, falls, and abuse over the years. My vacuum pump is still going today and does an excellent job.

@Haggar that was a wonderful explanation of the power steering system...Could I get you to post this in the 2nd Gen articles, please!?

The wild part is I've seen this truck in person twice now. Once to install his first VP44 and the second time to just have dinner as they passed through Idaho. @IBMobile is a very talented man and got some wonderful ideas for these trucks. (Psst...) we are currently working on another secret squirrel project for these trucks too...

Such a ... Some things never change...

Might still take a look at his design. He's got a floor switch for holding lockup for deceleration for exhaust brake use and self cancelling if you touch the brakes this way you never coming to a stop locked up. Like I said his design is well beyond the simple mystery switch.

This is why I focus on the drags and loss of tires and ratio because these can impact the range that your RPM's fall in. Then with @Me78569 and his comment they kind of go hand in hand with each other.

Oh come on now...

Might not be into fast, but this combo put lots of stress on the transmissions and driveline. Very inefficient typically lowers the MPG's Drops your final ratio down 3.42 to the ground which not efficient for our trucks. Somewhere around 3.73 is optimal. To get things straighten out you would have to either consider regearing to 3.73 or ditch the tires. I've done my study work on this... https://mopar1973man.com/topic/14325-new-tire-size-found-235s-to-245s/

I remember talking to @trreed about his setup and he's got to do some really strange fuel mapping to make large injectors driveable on his rig. The 7 x 0.010 injector and smaller turbo seems to be a crowd favorite and powerful combo. I'm close at 7. 0.0085 and HX35/40 hybrid (60/60/12) and can tear the tire lose in 4th. Instead of looking to build big power I look at reducing drag so now I've got big power without the huge amounts of drag.

That right there is caused by a failing air filter. Turbo rebuild is super easy. Cost about $50 bucks for the kit from DAP. I rebuilt my HX35/40 before installing the turbo. Thanks to @CSM for the hand me down turbo.

If you wanting to do mystery switch I suggest that you talk to @IBMobile on his lock up switch it works way better than these hacked switches you see out there.

I've got to ask what sized tires are you running? Final gear ratio to the ground makes a huge impact on spool up and smoke control.

I said the same thing... He needs to regear the truck or ditch the 37" tires.

Matter of fact that is my next move. I've got to get fresh rubber on my Cummins and the RV. I've also got a quick ratio steering box also. Hopefully by next weekend ill have the tires. This also prove optimal final ratio is near 3.73. This also prove that oversize tire look cool but make for way too low of a final ratio unless you already have 4.10 or high axle gears already.

Hmmm. Strange its always the ones with oversized tires and leveling kits that have to manufacture new geometry for the front axle.

12oz cans only with just Freon. Do not buy the quickie cans they have stop leak and oil.

Might see the green dye in the draining water.

Loss of power to ECM. Loss of power to the injectors. But I would expect a error code with that.

Nope never seen it... Maybe @Quadzilla Power would know something about it?

First off I typically hook up my manifold gauge and see what the static pressure is. If there is no pressure in the system then you need to start looking for leaks. Typically I would put a shot of UV dye in the system and recharge just enough to get the compressor to run. This will push the dye around the system and hopefully push it out the leak. Now using black light look over the entire system for the green dye. If the system has some pressure in it but not enough to start the compressor (<35 PSI) then I typically recharge and give a shot of UV dye. Then let the vehicle go for a day or two and then ask the person to return. I hope in a few days the green dye pushes out and show the point of the leak. Once the leak is repaired either typically bad o-rings or bad condenser. Then I typically test one more time by placing a vacuum on the system and seeing if it can hold the vacuum. My little 1/3 HP pump can typically pull 28inHg of vacuum. Wait for extended period. An hour would be optimal. Now check and see if you still have the exact amount of vacuum. If not them you've got another leak to go find. Now that we are sure there are no leaks then I would pull the vacuum. This ensures there is no moisture in the system. Now typically the system hold 3 can (rounding up). At that point I add the 3 can as a GAS (not a liquid). Never flip the can upside down where liquid can be discharged on the suction side this can hydro-lock the compressor and cause damage if not an explosion. I always charge A/C system on the lo side as a GAS. Now for typical Dodge Ram I would charge till there was at least 35 PSI on the lo side. Typically the high side can run about 225 to 275 PSI but this depends on the outside temperature and if the fan is partially locked or not. After I've got the 35 PSI and the compressor is staying locked I will up the RPM's to about 1,500 to 1,800 and see if the compressor unlocks. If so I typically add a bit more freon to prevent cycling of the clutch which is bad. The compressor should not cycle when charged properly. If you already got the 3 cans in the system I stop. Overloading will actually degrade performance and make it run warmer on the discharge temp on the vents.

Yeah the can be pop tested but most likely the nozzle and little are worn so replace is the typical solution. Most of us buy injectors from DAP or Diesel Auto Power. I'm getting ready to replace my 7 x 0.0085 injectors with a fresh set. This set I'm going for 310 to 315 bar pop pressure. Common MPG Better is the RV275 injector. The other half of the MPG is having a tuner to advance timing. Stock tune is rather retarded in timing