Mopar1973Man

Ontario, OR

Just remember the compressor pulley bearing is a sealed bearing. It can fail regardless of compressor usage. In the dead of winter it can get so cold that the compressor will not start. Freon pressures will fall with extreme cold and the lo side switch will prevent it from starting. This is normal.

Good gawd... Could of at least use air brake line.

As for my ISSPro EV2 I've routed through the firewall at the main loom slit the rubber boot and went through to the engine bay. Fuel pressure and boost pressure are at my ABS module. EGT routes along the cowl to the manifold.

35F morning and barely 105F fluid temp. Barely warm to the touch.

So far this morning travelling through New Meadows ID it was mere 35F for morning air temp. The IAT offset was still up there about 45 to 50 degrees. Neat part as I got closer to Weiser and the outside temp rose to 65 then the IAT was sinking fast on offset. I'd find that turbo cool down is much faster. The down side when idling the coolant can drop to 178F and the EGT are in low 200's which in the dead of winter is a bad thing. Idle speed is up nearly a full 10 RPM.

Actually, most the time that I see cracked exhaust parts is from people running way to high of EGT's for way too long. Cooldown only affects the bearing life because of oil coking up on the bearings on the shaft. Like myself, I've never cracked an exhaust manifold yet nor an exhaust housing. I've always kept a watchful eye on my EGT gauge after I found out YEARS ago that its possible to push a "completely stock" ISB Cummins up past 1,400*F towing over a 7% grade.

I would only suggest an Edge product if you plan on remaining STOCK injectors. I would suggest Quadzilla for people planning on running larger injectors. Problem, I had with Edge Comp even with RV275 was it was impossible to tune out the smoke. Then the timing is a canned tune so you never really get the tune you need. This was a reason back in the day of being forced down to 55 MPH because as soon as the engine load rises the timing dropped like a rock. I would look at PacBrake if you are going to do an exhaust brake setup. Much better than my old school Jacobs brake. Just consider the thought of the aluminized diamond eye. The factory exhaust was made with the same aluminized pipe as well and went all these years. Stainless pipe from what I found out typically cost more but will not last much longer than the aluminized pipe. I've got the 4" Diamond Eye with muffler now. Very quiet system. The aluminized pipe is holding up great against the salt on the highways. Just the clamps will rot off before the pipe does.

It sure was an all you can eat buffet... Thanks @IBMobile They brought over dinner one night as they passed through... Diesel the Dog, Ibmobile standing by the sink, his wife Jennifer on the left and MoparMom and the right. I was shooting the picture. Not to mention what two years ago bailing Ibmobile out as there VP44 crapped the bed just north of Riggins, ID. I installed it in the RV park...

Being I keep a full fuel log since 20k miles. I'm sure I'll spot how much of a loss is possible. Looks like I need to catch up with August part of the logs...

By the time I reach December, it will be close to -30*F here. I'm just alerting people to be aware of the weather condition and consider this mod like yourself you in the southern half of the states which is fine but us northern folks should not do this mod.

Just for point of reference outside temperatures was 80*F. Like this morning I'm getting up and its 45*F and dark. If I had that cooler on I be in trouble really quick. winter temperatures are around the corner. By October typically there is snow on the ground in the high country.

I remember where another member mention that oil pressure sensor had effect on MAP sensor. I'm not sure who it was but we can hope he sees this and responds.

Possible the 5V circuit could be having issues from oil pressure sensor causing other issues from it.

Might dip a thermometer right into the fluid and get a measurement too.

Most likely a short in that circuit you'll need a power distribution map and then be able to find out what failed.

Looks like LMC truck on the box...

Congrads... It will make you feel better driving down the road looking at a full dash bezel and not a broken one.

After driving 30 miles highway speeds I measured 150*F in the reservoir. The hoses were hot but not enough to burn you but not enough to make me let go either.

Everyone knows I just did a coolant flush not to long ago and change my thermostat for the 190*F from NAPA. Come to find out the new thermostat tend to lean on the high side of the 190's. No problem. MPG numbers seemed good. I started to wonder about if I changed the thermostat from 190*F to 180*F if the IAT would follow? Guess what it does. Instead of the constant +40*F offset the 180*F makes roughly a +30*F offset with 80*F outside temp the IAT floated 105-110*F. If your looking for colder IAT temps then the thermostat will give you at least -10*F drop. This was only a 30 mile round trip to town. I'll leave it in and watch the IAT and ECT closely for the next few days. I'm going to bet I'm going to take an MPG hit because of thermodynamic and too much heat energy will be lost to the coolant being colder. We'll see, won't we? Here is some photos. Part number for NAPA. Old version of the 190*F thermostat versus the new version on the right.

Just like me driving up a narrow one lane forestry road and find out I've got to turn around in the road. You end up doing like a good 5 point forward and backup there is some time when that space is extremely limited and you have to force that steering from lock to lock without moving. Worse yet doing the same thing in an old school small parking lot with pavement and limited room to maneuver. I understand the purpose of tires sizes. Like walking in snow every step you make your foot will sink. Throw on a set of snowshoes and you can walk on top of the snow. This would be the same for mud or sand. Size does matter to the application and usage but there is an inherent risk of damage, being stuck from lack of traction/floatation or worse yet loss of control of the vehicle from too much floatation on icy roads.