Mopar1973Man

Another to add to the collection...

Beyond that, you would need to adjust your tire pressure based on the axle weight of the current time. Like myself I typically do the pressure math and round down or subtract about 5 PSI on the pressures allowing the tires to be a bit soft sided and conform to ice better. Then in the summertime I do the same math and round up or add about +5 PSI.

Yeah. Many days of that. Again the trick is more weight per square inch gains better traction. So in just reducing my footprint by dropping tire size help a bunch. I've been to several fire calls (vehicle accidents) where I got out and fell on the highway and fought to even stand up. I've also travel up many snow covered forestry roads in the dead of winter hauling a snowmobile trailer in the past. (Sold the sled). Still have to travel these roads to visit friends. Simple way to look at it. If you to walk out in deep snow you'll sink with every step. Now if you put on snowshoes now you can walk across the top of the snow. Wider footprint allows you to spread your weight over more square inches allowing you to float on top. This is why I held to the 235's for so long because with 4,400 pounds on the front axle narrow footprint gave me way better bite on ice. Now with my plans to switch 245's footprint is going to change again as well being almost a inch wider. Tread face does matter too. M/T tires tend to perform rather poorly. Like my last two sets of A/T's (Hankook) ran wonderfully on snow, ice and slush still to this day no chains. Oh I almost forget to say... Its a Open Diff Dana 80. No limited slip at all.

Exactly what my design is all about. I don't care to make big HP. I want a clean daily driver. Comparing the Edge Comp (or Edge Juice) to the Quadzilla you'll find the fuel control is way better on the Quadzilla allowing for smoke-free tunning. Then timing to get the MPG's up where they belong. The other factor since you can set fuel BELOW stock level you can reduce the amount of stress on the driveline components where Edge products don't have this ability. 7 x 0.0085 DAP VCO Injectors HX35/40 (60/60/12) Hybrid Turbo Quadzilla Adrenaline

Wow. In all the years out here in New Meadows, ID I've only chained up ONCE. Just to see if the chain fit good. Since then I've travel most all the local roads in 2WD. Very, Very rare for me to grab the 4WD and use it in the winter. To this day I still pack my chains in the truck and my tow chain but never used them in over 349k miles of road being traveled. My secret weapon is the 235's I typically run since I switched from the 265's to the 235's I've always had good winter traction without the need for chains.

Thank you for posting that.

3.55 rear axle.The inch smaller tire is going to nearly get me to 3.73.

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@Dynamic showed me a spot on the back side of the pan where there is plenty of room for the sensor to be installed. You can weld in a bung 1/8" - 27. When you drop the pan you'll see what I'm talking about.

I not sure of the purpose of your truck. You might consider both the AirDog and the FASS both. AirDog is a much smaller package and easier to tuck up and out of the way. FASS is the favorite for most here but the FASS is a much larger pump and difficult to protect the filters and pump from flying debris and strike damage if your running offroad for any reason. Something to consider in your choice... There are few people here that went to the fully mechanical pump that is belt driven off the crank. Plenty of options and things to consider.

Dump it in my lap... I don't suggest any kind of washable filters period. Bad, Bad, Bad idea... Every time you wash the filter you breaking down the media. I've seen several brand new filters K&N, Afe, S&B, etc. I've had a few vendors send me new filters to try. 100% were box up and sent back. Every single one had holes in the media that was big enough for dust to pass right through. With K&N filter... All the oil is pulled out of the filter and the dust now coats the turbo compressor wheel. With BHAF. No oil and no dust.

Normal run span is 14 to 20 PSI. So like my truck idles at about 17-18 PSI and WOT might pull down to 15 PSI. This is a good fuel pressure. 14 PSI to 20 PSI is a good fuel pressure. 10 PSI to 14 PSI is a marginal realm. It's still OK and meets even Dodge's specs but after the pressure drops below 14 PSI the overflow valve is closing till it reaches 10 PSI and its closed tight. Now there is no return flow from cooling and lubing purpose and the VP44 take a beating. Below 10 PSI your causing damage to the VP44 for sure. This is another reason why low-pressure lights are a bad idea being most all of them come on at 3 to 5 PSI which by then the damage is already being done. Think of the fuel pressure as being the oil pressure for your VP44. The only thing that lubes that pump is the fuel itself.

The two I would use for injectors have been Vulcan Performance and Diesel Auto Power.

Return from the VP44 is very limited anyway... Return on the left and supply on the right. No matter what you do for pressure the volume is limited to that small port drilled in the body of the pump. This why I never suggest pressure beyond the standard 14-20 PSI. There is nothing gained going to higher supply pressures.

My problem isn't really the summer heat even though we reach the 100's every summer. My problem is the winter time keeping the fuel from gelling up in -40*F weather. This is the only reason I've never bother with a cooler for the fuel. Like others have mentioned I'm not returning to fuel basket I've got it to the filler neck. My fuel lines do not run outside the frame but inside the frame so it shielded from extreme cold and extreme heat. I'm also using an old-school draw straw from the early AirDog 150 time still never failed and still no 1/4 tank issues for a daily driver. Still I'm changing fuel filter every 60k miles because they never get dirty. 60k miles and no pressure loss.

I agree with most here I would check that fuel pressure ASAP. These trucks are known to start and run without a lift pump. Hard on the VP44 being you have no codes your lucky right now. I would get a fuel pressure gauge in the cab and see what is going on.

I would hope that the pan is thick enough to to be tapped. Hard telling without looking at it. If it a thick wall then I would drill and tap.

That 7 x 0.010 injectors and a Quadzilla would be the awesome setup on your current turbo. You'll be able to defuel the Quadzilla enough to build boost and get the turbo lit then cut it loose with a wire tap and extra fuel.

Some people have all the bad luck. Currently 349k miles. Ball joints at 185k still running that second set. AcDelco from RockAuto. Tie rod ends changed at 340k miles for the first time. Using NAPA parts. Steering gear box at 335k miles. Blue Top Gear Box installed. My box was still tight just leaking and rusted badly. I damaged the input cap trying to rebuild the gear box. Still running OEM power steering pump. Brakes where done back at 180k miles. Still going on OEM rotors. NAPA track bar not to long ago. (Bad mistake bought a Autozone bar because I needed it now!) Steering is tight like the day I bought the truck brand new in 2002. The whole trick is not to install oversized tires and wheels. The only sized tires I've ever ran was 265/75 R16, 235/85 R16 and now going to switch 245/75 R16 (increase my final ratio to 3.69).

I'm running a 60/60/12 Hybrid HX35/40 turbo which would fit your application just about perfect...

Kind of like this one... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-2260/overview/

Now @Dynamic showed me a spot in the rear of the pan which is near the OEM sensor and shows a close to right value. I've not move there yet. I need to drill and weld in the bung yet. Low on my priority list right now. The hot line shows while it running but can be affected by road condition like excessive snow, slush, or excessive water spray on the line. You may need to insulate the line to keep a good reading.

Kind of like this problem... Cab filter packed with corn.

I'm just south of you by about 3 hours. Funny how the Palouse has that problem with all the grain fields up there. Come down here not as much they exist but the hawks and owls tend to pick them off rather quickly. I find squirrel tails in the yard all the time.

I'm looking for a 1996 Ford Explorer wiring diagram for the HVAC wiring diagram. I've got a local lady that needs the A/C in her vehicle and the blower quit and the compressor won't come on. I need info on finding the wiring diagram,