Mopar1973Man

I forgot about something too. Another reason for these seal failures could be the use of wrong fluids in the power steering system. I've seen in the past where people have used ATF in these truck assuming it will work fine. It will not. ATF will cause seal damage and our system requires only power steering fluid. I suggest staying away from synthetics as well in this system. Being I've crossed 344k miles on the OEM pump and hydrobooster. I'd still have the factory steering box if I didn't screw up the input shaft cover.

You create this ground. From the VP44 bolt to the driver side battery.

Start with the ground a the passenger side battery, trace it to the alternator. Thenfrom there split the loom open all the way to the to the VP44. You'll see the ground splice.

In a nutshell the large gauge wire will be spliced with the lighter gauge wires. At that point to cut the wire.

Basically the TPS is how much fuel your commanding, engine load is how much fuel given. So if you command high amounts of fuel and the engine load is jumping like a jack rabbit then the ECM is damaged and providing bad data to the VP44.

Again not a APPS problem ECM problem I need the data... Again look at my post I updated it...

@Me78569 Idle software from the ECM seems to be clean. It's when it flips over to throttle mode fuel data gets dirty. Best suggestion is to grab an OBDLink OBDII dongle and data log both the TPS and the Engine Load in graph mode. At least we can see what TPS and the fuel signals are doing. Here is another members post about a possible APPS issues which in his case turned to be a bad ECM. We need the data of the TPS and engine load to figure out whats going on. Yes, it's possible the ECM could be damaged.

Did you try test drive with the Edge EZ removed? Do you have air bubbles coming through the fuel system? Raptor could be drawing air into the lines and since there is no air separator then it would start bucking. Under load the fuel flow is higher so ithe air bubbles will be more plentiful. Still you will wnat to di the ground mod above. @dripley reported a 50% reduction to the noise levels. dropping him to the 0.01x realm.

That why I'm asking for signature information so I can see if there is something else in the system muddy the signal. Do you have any tuners programmers anything like that? turbo? Injectors? Any engine modifications?

Hmmm... Could you list out all your mods you have on the truck in your signature? I'm looking for more clues on what it could be. It's still electrical natured.

Did you do the ground mod? What typically it is the ac noise muddys the tach signal and the ECM start the bucking. Another way of testing is disconnect the alternator field lead go for drive. If it goes away the problem is for sure AC noise related. Noise filter is a huge clue in this and should be removed.

I guess you won't say, "Here hold my beer and watch this chit!" Leaves you without a truck for quite awhile and simple things like seals are tough to get.

And a bad alternator. Ditch the ATS noise filter return the electrical back to stock. Most likely replace the alternator but have it tested for AC ripple. Then you'll want to do this ground mod.

I've had a Robin nest outside my bedroom window for several weeks. Momma hasn't been bothered by my yard work or anything. She'll normally fly off and watch from a distance. In the begining she would go nuts if I went near the nest. Now she just watches from a distance. Here is what's in the nest... Two newborn Robin's. Thankful for the high power zoom I could keep my distance and still zoom in good and see what's in the nest.

Did the trailer brake controller do the trick or is it still turning on the brake lights?

Here is a good pair of wire strippers. I've got these. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Katapult-Wire-Stripper-and-Cutter-for-8-20-AWG-Solid-and-10-22-AWG-Stranded-Wire-11063W/204660476 Here is excellent crimping tool. I might have to buy these much better than my old school junk. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Pro-sKit-Ratcheted-Crimper-for-Open-Barrel-Terminals-300-005/206369459

No. That's a sign of the hydrobooster leaking power steering fluid into the cab. This is most likely caused from lack of power steering fluid flushing and the oil is contaminated and broke down so the seals take a beating. Power steering fluid should be changed every 30k miles.

Trailer brake controller? Not sure if you got one. Possible the control back feeding the brake light leads.

Take notice of there are 3 fuses. (Fuse 4, 5, 10 in the Cab) It can be the muti-function switch or brake light switch. Being the Hazard switch will use the same filament as the brake like switch and if the flash relay is shot then the light just stay on. (Fuse 4 and 10) Brake lights is Fuse 5.

Basically what @Me78569 is getting at for building fuel curves. This is how you would break it down into smaller chunks and clean up each piece of the fuel map. Start with level 1 set your valet mode power till you get the smoke tuned out. Now that is going to be your start power %. Now step up to Level 2 and now build your curve till you make your starting point to 100% fuel clean. If you need to clean up more push your 100% point higher in the boost range. Now Step up to level 3 and build from the 100% to the max you can handle without smoking heavy for the rest of the span. Now step up to level 4 or higher and build your wiretap level. With as big as your injectors are I really wonder if wiretap will be even needed.

Might talk to @IBMobile he's down there in the California area. I think also @KATOOM is in California. Might ask these guys if they can help.

Ok. PCM is the master computer ECM is the secondary computer PCM uses ECM and ABS. Cruise control uses ABS signal. (Either pass to the ECM or vacuum motor) Security feature PCM gets do not start signal and sends to the ECM. Cluster requires ECM, PCM, and ABS. Cluster gets the coolant temperature oil pressure, and the tach from the ECM. Cluster gets the fuel level and the voltage from the PCM Cluster gets the speed from the ABS. ECM requires PCM and ABS module. ABS control the grid heater canceling. Radio requires Central Timer (Steering wheel controls). Central Timer Requires PCM (security feature). Overhead console requires PCM. All p-pumping the engine does is remove the VP44. You still need the ECM for the cluster to display gauge functions. Remove the PCM the whole system dies and the truck won't function. This why the two codes tend to prevent function of the truck typically.

Then use level 2 to build your defuel range.

I'll tell you why he's gun shy to changing the VP44. Last time I did the VP44 in his other truck was was quick to ask, "Where does this bolt go?" - CLANK! and it disappeared. After hunting for about 15-30 minutes we found it in the bottom of the intercooler. I've got no problem doing the VP44 @JAG1 knows my average speed is half of the labor book. Not to mention the A/C problem he's been nagging me about for months since last summer if I don't do it JAG1 will be beating with the stick next. You always welcome for a wrench party here. It's always the old and slow ones that know what they're doing. (Sign of great wisdom).

No way to remove the PCM. Its the master computer. Without it the rest of the truck fails. The only thing p-pump does is remove the VP44 you still need the ECM.