Mopar1973Man

Spring is here for sure... Would someone spend a few carbon credits please to get the temperature up above 42-48*F here for lo and hi temperatures. It sucks! It just cold and damp... I was going to work on the truck but I'm going to do computer work today inside where its warm yet and get my PC's updated to Ubuntu 18.04 LTS.

You might want to follow my thread then. My last trip home I barely moved the fuel gauge a 1/16 of tank for 133 miles of travel. I'm hoping to beat my 21.36 MPG on my first log entry.

Valve lash?

@Ben PM sent to you for security mod for ya... Between "Diesel the Dobberman" in the back seat and me packing a 9mm pistol rather nasty thought of stealing my truck.

Sound like someone needs to wash their truck more. I don't mean the paint. I mean get under the bed skirts and get the standing mud out of there. Any where that mud can collect and hold moisture / salt is bad deal. Even in the dead of winter I was out there with my power washer and rinsing tons of salt off and get the mud out of fender tops. Sloppy cold job but its well worth it when you still have rust free truck in salt country.

Point is that the ports or holes in the valves of both the steering box and hydrobooster are very small. It doesn't take very much metal debris to plug up the small ports. Not so much as hoses as taking the hydrobooster off and blowing out ports backwards hoping to clear any debris. If not you'll be getting a seal kit so you can break it down to clean it out. This why there is a big yellow warning tag on Blue Top steering boxes stating you must flush the system BEFORE installing because debris can plug the steering box.

No. High idle kit is still functional. Just need to disable Quadzilla high idle. Be aware the MPG mode has no affect after Quadzilla kicks after warm up. You so get the bonus of cutting back the cold start timing but only for the cold start and warm up. After that the Quadzilla controls timing directly.

340666 - 340368 = 298 / 13.948 = 21.36 MPG I was hoping for more. I guess ill have to get busy putting effort into this beast. I need to at least be mid 20s which to me is 24 to 26 MPG consistently. I'm at least above average for most here on the website. Just doing some math 300 miles ÷ 12 gallons is 25 MPG. I was at 13.9 gallons at 298 miles. So I've got to shave off 2 gallons of consumption in 300 miles. Ill get there. Back to checking drag items like brakes, parking brakes, etc. Valve lash check again and go tight side again on the 0.008 and 0.018 again. Injectors with higher pop pressure. I'm going to do it.

Might have debris in the hydrobooster that is jamming up something or plugging a port.

Just got to run matching tune to flash version. If you attempt to load a tune that is version 2.5 but your flash is 2.7 it will not load. The tune has be a 2.7 as well.

Contact info at the bottom of the page.

We do have replacement cables in the store.

Like my first vehicle was a 1973 Dodge Charger SE. Yeah, now you know where the "1973" comes from in Mopar1973Man. I held on to that old car till about 3 or 4 years ago. Sold it to local gent. I just didn't have the money to restore that beast. Sat under a tree for way too long and needed a lot of work to make it like it was years ago. It was a hell of a street machine back in my High School days. Street Racing usually gentleman's bets with friends. I'm the same way today I'm going to hang on to this truck till there is just nothing left I can do and I gotta let go. So far this truck I'm actually staying up on all the repairs and the list problems are being kept small.

The only thing I can think of is a sudden timing shift. As timing advances it produces an increase of throttle.

You've got to build a math formula display the right boost pressure. You might ask either @Chris O. or @Me78569 they would both know.

APPS reset on programs the ECM the span of voltage from idle to WOT. The Exhaust brake is typically based off the IVS (Idle Validation Switch). If the switch is triggered for idle then the exhaust brake should be active. Depends on the type of APPS. Timbo APPS is fully mechanical so there is no voltage value to flip-flop the IVS it all based on angle. Now the Stock APPS and Wells APPS both rely on voltage to flip-flop the IVS.

Basically, you need to make sure your getting +12V on the Red lead. Then the Orange/Balck is getting your ground signal. Double check the #1 fuse to see if it cracked. I've seen that too many times. You can look at the fuse and it appears fine but to an ohm meter its cracked. Might swap relays for the transmission to see if it bad relay.

Like myself, I broke out the 3,000 PSI power washer and power washed all those tough spots to make sure all the mud and salt are gone from the truck.

That's the right app. I guess some needs to update the download area. @Me78569 or @Quadzilla Power...

You might talk to @Me78569 and see if the download is up to date.

According to my app the 1.9.41 is the current version.

Plus compound turbos... Way different setup. Also, I'm not driving any roads that allow for 80 MPH anymore.

You might still want to have the Quadzilla because high cetane fuel requires retarding in the winter time to gain MPG's back hence the design around the MPG fooler. Excessive timing with high cetane fuel makes for really low MPG in the dead of winter. I've been able to hit 20 MPG this last winter even with the 7 x 0.0085 injectors. Now I'm gearing up for the fuel price hike and going for the gold on my high mark which is 27.2 MPG hand math. I've already started the tune and will be reporting my MPG as I go.

If I go down to my truck I can pull out my fuel logs I'm sure I've got plenty of 17-19 MPG right now.

I'm fighting to keep the rust at bay. So far I'm holding my own.