Mopar1973Man

235/85 R16 and 265/75 R16 are the same size 31 inch tires. 245/75 R16 is a bit smaller it will be 26 rev/mile more than 235's. Plus it will increase the final gear ratio to around 3.73 at the ground. This makes the truck quicker and reduces EGT's and mild increase to MPG.

If it wasn't for the exhaust brake I would jump for sure into a Borg Warner or something bigger. If my wallet was loaded with cash I'd love to have a custom made turbo that kept my exhaust brake but using more common sizes like the 62/68/12.

Agreed. Separate the transfer case and the transmission. Much easier. I did my 1996 Dodge 46RE with jack stands for that vertical clearance as well. I used nothing more than ratchet strap and a floor jack at the end. Took a bit more than 2 hours by myself to install. I typically use a 2x6 and a bottle jack and lightly spread the frame. Both my trucks are so tight I can even move the cross member with a sledgehammer. So just getting a bit of tension off the cross member I can lift it off the saddle and slide it out.

I tend to agree but the VP44 is capable of so much more being its factors in several things that VE can't. VE has a simple intake temp solenoid to give advancement in the cold start conditions. The values below can be worked up in a way better timing table. Fuel Temperature IAT Temperature Coolant Temperature P-Pump was static timing, no adjustment for anything. This was another factor for the P-pump lifespan and why it was drop so quickly. The 1996 OBDII law kicked in and forced Cummins / Dodge to switch up to the VP44 to meet that requirement. My personal best with my truck is 27.2 MPG hand math. Edge Comp, +50 HP injectors, HX35W turbo and stock 3 inch exhaust. Absolutely. Everyone I watch convert a 24V over to a P-pump the first thing they whine about is the MPG's dropping lower than the VP44 did in stock form. I will admit the P-pump will pump more fuel and preferred by racing folks but still in all daily drive converted 24V will never be able to catch the mid 20's for MPG's. Never happen. That change also went on to the 3rd Gen where they also change the exhaust lobe to create an in-cylinder EGR event. It true that 24V mileage is reduced compared to a stock 6BT engine. 24V 2nd Gen was the starting edge of the emission standards and we got hit with a few mild things. Nothing too bad.

I would suggest going back to stock size or smaller. 338k miles on the factory OEM tierod ends, 185k miles on ball joints, steering box 340k miles still could of reused it but I damaged the cap threads. Like I just got a bid for my 1996 Dodge and be getting 245/75 R16 for around $600. My last batch of Hankook ATm 235/85 R16 I paid around $700 for the set. So big tire look cool but do more damage to the front suspension and steering and tires cost much more.

Smaller the exhaust housing the quicker the spool but also caps out the maximum boost you can produce. So larger exhaust housing like HX35 at 12cm 2 or like some custom turbos that have 14cm2 will allow for more boost but the turbo lag increases. Just think the H1C turbo off the 1st Gen Cummins is a 21cm2 exhaust housing without a wastegate.

I'm currently running Hankook ATm tires 235/85 R16 on the Cummins. I got roughly 60k miles on the last batch of tires with mostly highway miles. As for the two you've listed I've not had any experience with them at all.

Dollar price vs HP gained yes Quadzilla has Smarty hands down. Quadzilla has cooldown timer for turbo cool down. Smarty - none. Quadzilla has wiretap abilities for VP44 fuel trucks. Smarty - Designed more so for Common Rail (210 HP) not VP44 (60 HP Canbus only fuel). Quadzilla provides EGT probe for free. Fuel pressure sensor is optional. Smarty - Not supplied with EGT probe.

Yes. Like I said you can start with a tune that fits close and then tweak it to fit your needs. We'll be glad to help you out on tuning and give you some guidance.

Smarty UDC Yes... With Smarty typically tunes come at a price. I've heard some can charge as much as $300. (Heresay... Down the grapevine) Quadzilla No... You can start out with some the of the tune in the download area. All the tunes are free. https://mopar1973man.com/files/category/22-quadzilla-standard-tunes/

Quadzilla Adrenaline you end up back here for most of the technical stuff. Between @Me78569 and @Quadzilla Power you get all your answers. As for Smarty resource UDC you end up over here... (Talk to Brian) https://smartyresource.com/forums/

The only two choices you've got that give you tune capability is Smarty Touch UDC (60 HP) or Quadzilla Adrenaline (180 HP). I ended up with the smarty touch to attempt to up them build articles for there website. My problem is I don't own a Windows PC and the software doesn't work in VirtualBox so I'm not capable of making tunes yet for Smarty. As for the Quadzilla you just need a mobile device and build your tune right there on your cellphone or tablet no PC required (except to flash firmware updates). As for me its taken me quite awhile to get a grasp of how timing and fuel control work. In a nutshell more fuel more timing is required to go from an atomized spray, heat to vapor, to BANG. This also changes with IAT temperature and cetane level of the fuel. Like all winter I was running a cruise timing of barely 18 degrees because of the excessive cetane in the local fuel which still gave me 20-21 MPG on the bit cold days. Now cetane is down, IAT is coming up, I'm adding 2 cycle oil more (cetane down a bit more), then cranking up the timing more. Hence my 20 degree cruise timing now. Still floating 19-20 MPG. Still want to aim higher on the MPG numbers, and I will! I know as timing is advance more of the fire is in the cylinder and EGT's and boost fall. You'll notice more coolant temperature and lower engine load when optimal. Fueling wise you need to find out how much fuel you need to spin the turbo on CANBus alone. Then you can add the wiretap in a control state. Like I've got 1,200 to 2,200us worth of wiretap pulse to play with I'm only using 1,400us second right now and it only slightly smoky when I jump on the throttle. Again none of this is possible with a canned tune like Smarty or TST. That was a limitation of the past. No longer...

I still feel part of the problem is lack of control of fueling and timing. Smarty is not giving the timing you need for 110 HP injectors which should be advanced even more on the top end. The bottom end should be retarded some to allow for building of boost. The problem is Smarty is designed for stock injectors so the timing map is totally wrong. Then your using both TST and Smarty for a fueling map and again both boxes are design on stock injectors where you fueling most likely too heavy because neither box is designed for 110 HP injectors. I've got 75 HP injectors (7 x 0.0085) with an HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) and can control my EGT's fairly well. I'm going to step up to (7 x 0.009) injectors soon and push the pop pressure up to 315-320 bar to clean them up. As for my current tune I start out defueled with limit of 80% fuel which I don't cross 100% till 10 PSI of boost. My starting timing I'm at 13 degrees in the 1,500 RPM which gives my all the spool I need after that I step up to 17 degrees at 2,000 RPM and +3 degree of cruise timing giving me 20 degrees at cruising state. Again none of this tuning can be done with your current stack and both boxes are not designed for anything more than stock. Kind like why I've got a Smarty touch sitting on my desk but I can't use it till I can get a Windows PC to redo the tune to fit my injector and timing requirements.

Welcome to the website. The one to talk for sure is @W-T the ground wire guru. There is a few others that done the ground wire mod as well. @dripley shame on you. You told me last night you did the ground wire mod and worked good for you. You are not going to share with the newbie here.

Just pull the two battery leads. Leave the solenoids alone. It will trip error codes for sure. Being your in California you in an emission state so I know and error codes is a bad thing and will fail your smog testing. Just leave the solenoids alone and no codes will be thrown.

Basically most chose a turbo based on the map data provided by the turbo which is the usable range of the turbo. What turbo do you have now and how much boost are your making? What catches my eyes is the TST / Smarty Stack. This might be part of the EGT problem and lack of fuel and timing control. I know the Smarty provides timing but you can't set the timing for your particular needs. Then fuel is by both units but again no control of the fuel for your particular conditions.

Waterford CA. I really doubt he'll see freezing temperatures around San Francisco / Modesto area. Now I know the answer here. There isn't much to gain here for air flow difference for a stock or mild modified truck. The only reason I could give is the AC noise issue for a disconnect.

Odd issue but does happen. Is it possible you have a pin push back and not making a solid connection at the ECM or the ECT plug? Like myself working with the Smarty Touch I couldn't get it to turn on at all. Come to find out after sending it back and have it tested. The Smarty Touch was fine but still didn't work on my truck this now points an issue on my truck. After getting the OBDII plug pulled out I found one of the SCI pin pushed back far enough to no longer make a connection with the OBDII plugs. After going around and double checking all the OBDII pins the problem is solved on my side. It is possible for a pin to pop out of the socket.

From my experience now. The thicker the viscosity the less gear rollover noise it should produce. This does come at a cost of some MPG. Yeah, 50 weight is a bit more like 90 weight. With the old Dealer fluid I use to get a lot of gear rollover noise running upgrades low in the RPM spectrum. No longer an issue with the 50 weight transmission fluid. This is why I welcome some transmission temperature.

Never been a big fan of the scotchlock on the wire make for poor connection typically not only that but can cut most of the solenoid lead in half. Not good for connections. As for the Quadzilla you need to be warmed up above your set warm up temperature (if set). After that, the power control should be red in color and unlocked now you can select a level. Levels 4 and up are all wire tap levels.

There is always been a weird difference between the two NV4500 and the NV5600. I know that are both based on carbon fiber syncros as the limitation. Knowing that much from the study I invested in the NV4500 I know the fluid has to be GL-4 Synthetic (hence the cost). PennzOil doesn't specify viscosity or GL rating. That why I'm scratching my head. Again I know the NV4500 is 75w-80 fluid synthetic GL-4. As for NV5600 I've never really studied it in depth nor no the actually specs exactly. Kind of like PennzOil and Mopar... Again no specifications of viscosity or GL rating... Again Dodge has done some weird crap. Like the newer 3rd gen 6 speed running on ATF+4. Then going backward to the older Getrag 5 speeds running on 5w-30 synthetic ENGINE oil (weird, no GL fluid at all). So I'm not going to call out specifications nor do I know all of then either. Just I know there is a lot of weird specs when it comes to the transmissions. Some of them you can bend and others you can't. Same token take note the two transmissions above have had shorter lifespans because of fluid limitations. So a lot of people gone there own direction and skipped specification which now makes this clear as mud. Being I did the study work on the NV4500 I know why the change in fluids and the design. It was because the Cummins was getting the gear teeth too hot and popping the teeth off the gear hence why the Castrol Syntorque fluid was created. Viscosity is not a factor on the NV4500. The only factor I know for sure is that the fluid must be a GL-4 Synthetic to keep the carbon fibers from breaking down also meet the gear teeth problem. That kind of hangs with me being both NV4500 and NV5600 both have carbon fiber syncro. Right or wrong that just where my mind hangs on is those carbon syncros. Beyond the syncros both transmissions are just steel parts on a shaft with bearings. Hence my thought on it.

I don't know if it meets the requirements.

Check out Weller Truck. That's who rebuilt my NV4500 after a broke the mainshaft. I've got 70k miles on the transmission after 2 years now. Still running strong...

Yes, sir. 70,000 miles and no issues. I check the fluid level at 60k miles and the color was still clean like out of the bucket. I'll be doing a fluid change at 100k miles. I kind of feel it will be early... No it's not. If you look at the factory lube at $27 a quart from a Dodge Dealer... That's $108 for a gallon. I bought a 5 gallon bucket for bit over $200.00. Napaonline is $245 a 5 gallon bucket. $49 a gallon. $12.25 a quart. It's nearly half the price of the factory fluid.

Verified with a digital thermometer and it right on. Mine rarely comes up above the 130*F mark empty running. Now towing it common to see the 170-190*F realm. The only time I could push that is now shift in 3rd gear crawl a 7% grade in 110*F weather. Now that was the only time I've seen my warning light trip at 225*F. All winter It never moves from the 100*F mark. Most of the summer I'll be below 160*F empty truck. Also interested as well.