Mopar1973Man

I still think its the ECM. You can do that same test with the Key ON and engine OFF. Then you can walk the entire scale and look for issues but the fact the engine RPM is jumping to WOT right away off of IVS switch toggle tells me the ECM is still goofy.

Should be all 1998.5 to 2002...

I'll tell you my personal experience that it's not worth the effort. You'll need 4 relays and 2 fuse. Each low beam will need a relay hooked up to a 85 and 86 terminal. Then each hi beam will need a relay hooked up to a 85 and 86 terminal. Mind you that common in the headlight is +12V not GROUND. The low and high beam legs are GROUND! Then the pin 30 all get a fuse. Then the 87 pin all get the proper bulb position (hi or lo) the bulb common will be to GROUND. This relay setup converts from common +12V to common ground. After I ran this setup for a year I ended up removing the headlights and selling on the classified ads then buying a set of Morimoto HIDs and never looked back. The problem with the sport heradlights is the reflectors have a very narrow path and don't light up much. The secondary bulb is even worse its a very tall but narrow band of light. Main bulbs are OK (meh) but scatter light over a wide area but dim. Then gave up after a year... Then added PIAA Led driving lights... I hate to say it my current setup puts stock sport headlights to shame. (Even with the relay mod)

Article already created. Again "Thank You" @W-T

Score card for me... 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 - 2 track bars in 336k miles. 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 - 0 trackbars in 169k miles. Both trucks are running 235's for tires. It does make a difference.

Would you mind sharing your info for the ECM rebuilder database? Contact @pepsi71ocean about the adding your rebuilder in.

Typically ECM issues stem back from failed alternators. The tin foil was the clue that someone had issues with the alternator and the excessive AC noise wiped out the ECM. As for the throttle issue currently that is still a ECM issue as far as I know of. Need to have a live data tool and watch the TPS signal and see if it goes from 0 to 100% as you watch the voltage. I'm going to bet the voltage hit that 0.8xx mark again and the TPS goes 100%. What is happening is the APPS drop off the IVS (Idle Validation Switch) from IDLE mode to THROTTLING and the ECM only sees 100% throttle. Soon as you drop back to IDLE IVS the ECM drops the APPS sensor and uses only ECM software. Since you shown the voltage is not out of hand that means there is a ECM internal issue so far. Warranty work...

First thing... Go do the alternator AC noise testing... Also get rid of that tinfoil. Before Testing - IMPORTANT PLEASE DO NOT SKIP! Before doing any testing of the alternator for AC noise, make sure to remove any and all wiring modifications. Return the electrical system back to stock. Make sure there is no extra grounds, relocation of ground wires or noise filters installed before testing the alternator. It has been brought to my attention that wiring mods can and will provide false passing grades for the alternator. The entire electrical system should be left stock and unmodified so you (the owner) are alerted sooner to impending alternator failure. Stock system will show AC noise issues much sooner than modified system which will mask the issue and then typically cause damage to ECM, PCM or VP44 sooner.

Most go for in the basket draw straw.

Thicker fuel will seal out the air leak. As the fuel warms up gets thinner it will leak air. Try a trick. Pull that suction fitting on the sender and get some thick grease and grease the pickup tube fitting. Now snap it back together. Now pack a bit more grease in the groove on the fitting. If the problem goes away you've found your air leak. This is only a temporary fix it will return. This means you end up changing to a full draw straw and JIC fittings. Rather common issue...

What your hearing is air coming through the system. Suction side is drawing air. Air is not dealt with till it hits the filter then the air is pushed out on the return line. So I would look at that fancy push to connect fitting you used on the stock pickup assembly. Again suction side line will not leak outwards. Not to mention I would highly suggest converting over to a full draw straw and using strictly JIC / Parker Pushlock fittings.

Why I mention Dynamic to draw him in and maybe he's got some insight into the method of tuning the lock up.

Might talk to @Dynamic ask him about it as well. He might shed some more light on the idea.

Been there done that many times...

More you lean towards retard the easier it is to build power again. My 1,500 to 2,000 range dives of in timing rather quick to allow the timing to retard enough to build boost pressure and power again. At 2,000 RPM (70 MPH) I'm at 19* of timing.

Better view for people.

More like a semi-soft plastic of some sort. But its still very stiff material.

Ive got a sintered stone in my snubber.

Snubbers from ISSPro work awesome. No issues here.

Should be squirting quite a bit. You need 4500 PSI to start the engine.

The easiest way to chase leaks is on a cold dry engine. Pump up the coolant system with 16-18 PSI of pressure and watch for the coolant to flow. Flow the coolant trail back ot the source of the leak.

The full Quadzilla only uses the high idle below your set coolant temperature or if you set level 0. Then the high idle becomes active.

Cummins only uses a rubber o-ring for sealing the thermostat. There is the little bypass hose on top there double check it. Check for cracks in the block and if you have a 53 block which are known to crack on the passenger side. There is the heater hose on the passenger side that might be leaking too.

No. Just a RPM governor. Security key fob could. There is an auto shutdown relay but I've never heard of anyone getting the conditions to cause it to shut down and prevent startup.

Yep. Tune is working properly. Smoke is a sign of way too much fuel not enough boost.