Mopar1973Man

You've got my attention. I'd like to see this go through and be tested with summer heat. You'll be the first with a plastic heat shield.

Jigsaw... That's all I used.Then went to a friends house to use his brake to fold the 90* angle. Sheet metal trash can should be interesting...

Should be better on the choke point compared to my 12cm2 housing on my 60/60/12 HX35/40. Being my stock HX35W measured out at 54/60/12 The only thing I see is lag might be up there.

Mine was made from an old Idaho road sign.

Yes. Hidden at the bottom of the page... https://mopar1973man.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=8110

I've got a dumb question. Why aren't most of you just posting your trucks in the Garage? https://mopar1973man.com/garage/ https://mopar1973man.com/garage/vehicle/101-2002-dodge-ram-2500/ https://mopar1973man.com/garage/vehicle/102-1996-dodge-ram-1500/

Grid heater season. Good way to kill the alternator diodes. I unhooked my grid heaters and no longer have an alternator issue.

@JAG1 you do realize this is all in fun blinker fluid and muffler bearings... The castor oil idea I would be afraid of adding oil to the coolant at all. The oil will most likely cause the water pump seal to fail and water pump to leak. Then other rubber seals like the thermostat and water pump seal will most likely soften up too and leak. Not to mention what it would do to the rubber hoses like radiator and heater core hoses. If oil was such a good thing guys with blown head gaskets would bother washing out all that engine oil after a head gasket failure.

Thank you it another point on the score card for AC noise issues.

Why? I'm at 338k on the OEM water pump. Just do coolant changes.

I can confirm the same thing as well. I'm going to be hitching up the RV soon in the near future and most likely see the same thing.

Opps.. I know they sell the 98.5 to 02 foam though.

Test your alternator for excessive AC noise. If you have any wiring modifications, tin foil or noise filter on the PCM for TQ converter lock up issues you might want to return all electrical back to stock and ditch that tin foil and noise filter.

You not allowing enough time to drain. On my truck typically I set up to do oil changes on the weekend. So at the end of the first day at home I pull the plug and filter. Then go to bed. Get up the next morning its had all night to drain all the old oil out all night long. Then reinstall the oil filter and plug and refill with 11 quarts its right on the full mark. Doing this way you will notice the oil is just lightly tinted black being there is so little old oil left. If I a do it Jiffy Lube style and then refill I'm the same way about 1/2" over the full mark every time because there was that extra quart of old oil still in the engine. You will also notice the oil turns black instantly on first start.

https://www.genosgarage.com/product/ram-replacement-driver-seat-cushion-regular-cab-ggscrc9801/seat-cushions There is my solution.

Driver seat is looking a bit beat up. Only one small tear in the fabric. Door panel is worn out from arm laying on the door arm rest. Nope. Still all factory interior yet.

@MoparMom calls it my cockpit. What is totally strange after driving for those many hours each day and listening to that HX40 compressor it starts to sound like a mini jet engine. I'm truly comfortable and still handle website business while I travel for the most part. It great to be able to answer the phone and send text messages without ever touching or even looking at the phone. Even my text messages are read aloud through the stereo. I might own 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 but it sure got the power like 2017 Ram 2500 and all the cab toyz as well.

These are the EGT's I get for 80 MPH with stock gearing and 235's. Quadzilla wide open I can peg 45 PSI of boost and hit 1,400 EGT's (no limits).

If the injector is leaking you have no choice to loosen everything lift and re-seat the injector to make it right. Way too many people fight this and attempt short cuts having to do it again.

It's in the article database right here.

If the coolant is old and the pH level drifted towards the corrosive side it will act as an oxidizer as well and create the same type of damage as battery acid (sulfuric acid).

I would of taken it out and given a few good long WOT throttle runs to pull any air through the system. Just starting and idling will produces a hard start next round as the air collects again creates a hard start.

Lope could be caused from valve lash too. I had that problem and found I was bit sloppy about my adjustment and ended up being slightly too tight and it will create the same lopey idle. I would lift all the injectors back up and reseat them all. While you are at it check the top o-ring for damage.

Kind of like my perspective... 750 miles a week in the saddle. Little more lived in look being each day I roll its 13 hours in the saddle. Garmin 42LM, Cobra Radar detector, Gooseneck stand for the cellphone with USB charger and audio hook up for hands-free use. Exhaust brake switch on the stick that way the center pedal doesn't get used. 3 toggle switch up top is fog lights, reverse lights and my emergency red lights hidden behind my mirror. Yeah still got the broken windshield... I've gotta get it fix this spring.

Ok... Pictures say a thousand words. Remember these are OEM battery cables. Main battery... Now the secondary battery... Moving over to the house power system. Full battery bank notice there isn't any corrosion on these cable either after 20 years of service. Close up...